Recent content by borjawil

Ended up getting things figured out. Also for the correct pinion seal for the 2-4-8091x, it's 44895. Also note the 2-4-8091-1x does not have the correct spacing once the threads are drilled out, unless you get the appropriate u bolts I would guess. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Last pic is just for reference size of seal. When mocking up prior to putting everything on, seal didn't sit inside cover well. bottom of axle shaft is thicker but I think there was play between the seal and shaft. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I've found two different diagrams of d44 axles. This one doesn't not show a seal between the retainer plate and sealed bearing. On another thread regarding the same issue, I've been told there is a seal. A drivetrain specialist (phone call) also referenced the seal and part number. I've tried...

Gotcha. Also, you said bearing retainer was outboard of the sealed bearing (yes I have a rear 2wd d44 w/sealed bearings), as in nearer to the wheel. I was pretty sure the retainer went between the bearing and inner/tube seal. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Some sourdes show and outer seal between the axle flange and wheel bearing, others dont. Helpful drivetrain place for me all the correct part numbers for my diff rebuild and wheel bearing stuff, and recommend part number 18731. I can't see how this would fit. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Don't forget to oil your bearings when testing. Every resource I found said to make sure everything is super clean but nothing on oiling the bearings when checking preload. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

If I put all my shims on I'm probably at 130/40 ft/lbs and not hitting 20 in/lbs, lowest the torque wrench goes. Going to check my depth as my first reading was a bit shallow so I added a shim. If it's still shallow, adding a shim should tighten things up on the preload side. I remove a .013...

Up to 71/72 used preload shims and no crush sleeve. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

Unfortunately the dana 44 has so many varying versions so finding the correct info has proven to be difficult. But looks like 130-160 ft/lbs is correct. Generally 20-30 in/lbs for preload is correct for new bearings (across dana 44s). Used bearing preload is generally 13-15 in/lbs. For others...

I have searched and searched and found varying information. 63 f100. Dana 44 rear. Swapped gears. Original shims behind rear/inner pinion bearing race and on pinion shaft. Specs I've seen are 160-200 ft/lbs for nut torque and in/lb for preload ranging from 15 for used bearings, or 13-30 for...

Ran into a potential problem and have another question. First the rear pinion bearing race (goes in the pumpkin) is the same part number as the one I removed. It's either not seating fully somehow, bearing hole is worn, or bearing race is defective. I can wiggle the new race into the hole about...

Whelp got the wrong wheel bearings and overhaul kit for my diff. Here are the part numbers for each bearing and seal. Note that the wheel outer seal, between the wheel bearing and dust cover or flange, will differ based on diameter. Outer axle wheel bearing seal - 18545 (2.475") or 18731...

Got all my parts ordered now. Jeep cherokees use the -1x part numbered yolk. Got it for $20 shipped so I'll drill out the threaded holes to make it work. I am not using a pinion depth gauge, but will be measuring the old shims on the pinion and reaching with new for a base line. When checking...

Any reason the one with caps won't work? Seems the 2-4-8091-1x is the same but with caps. Could I just replace the caps with u bolts? Just wondering. EDIT: the answer is yes. Drill out the threads and use the u bolts. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk

I have no idea what wings are outside of birds. Currently I have the stock U bolts that hold the u joint to the yolk. I'll check out that part number. Appreciate the help. Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk