Dana 44 gear swap help

B

borjawil

Junior Member
63 f100 292 4sp manual

Stock dana 44. 3.73, switching to 3.31. called yukon, confirmed part number. New pinion is
26 splines. Old one is 10. I'm assuming I just swap in a 26 spline yoke? Any one know a part number? U joint size?

Second issue is the pinion face is stamped with maybe an 8. And 888 it looks like it written in paint marker on the face. Ideas on that for pinion depth?

Third I didn't have a crush sleeve when removing pinion. Unless I missed it. As far as I know the dana 44 should have one. Didn't receive one with gear kit either. Just shims. Thoughts?





Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
I swapped my Dana 44's ring & pinion gears for 2.72s out of an 80s Corvette. I got the 26-spline pinion yoke and rear u-joint from Northern Drivetrain. The OEM winged U-joint is Dana-Spicer 5-2031X. You will need a combination U-joint that is 5-2031X on the driveshaft side and 1310 on the yoke side. Northern has a pretty extensive catalog, so it might take awhile to find exactly what you're looking for, but they have it. Note, however, that your new yoke and u-joints will not use wings but u-bolts to secure the driveshaft to the yoke. If necessary, give them a call.

i have a u-joint in a box out in the garage; it might be the original take-off in the replacement box. I'll check the numbers. If it's what you need, I'll post again.
 
I'm back! You need Dana-Spicer 5-2140X. I can't remember if there's more than one 26-spline pinion yoke. There might be different lengths, but mine didn't require altering the length of the driveshaft.

Don't forget the u-bolts; I think they're sold separately.
 
I have no idea what wings are outside of birds. Currently I have the stock U bolts that hold the u joint to the yolk.

I'll check out that part number. Appreciate the help.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
Spicer yoke 2-4-8091X. Out of stock at Northern. Amazon has it, cheaper/w free shipping.
You can also get yoke, bolts, and seal for $66.06. Yoke, alone, $41.99.
 
Any reason the one with caps won't work? Seems the 2-4-8091-1x is the same but with caps. Could I just replace the caps with u bolts? Just wondering.

EDIT: the answer is yes. Drill out the threads and use the u bolts.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
Last edited:
Got all my parts ordered now. Jeep cherokees use the -1x part numbered yolk. Got it for $20 shipped so I'll drill out the threaded holes to make it work.

I am not using a pinion depth gauge, but will be measuring the old shims on the pinion and reaching with new for a base line. When checking gear contact, should I set up the side to side of the ring gear first then setup my pinion shims for front to back contact?

I've read on using the old bearing and grinding out the center to slide on and off the new pinion for setup. Sounds like I'll install the shims, mock up bearing, then tighten the old nut on there until I have about 10-15 in/lbs of drag. Is that correct? Then once I have the correct contact, install the new bearing.

I'll have to double check in the crush sleeve, but if it is needed, from what I've found, I'll tighten until I have the proper new bearing drag of 20-30in/lbs. But I've also read that 150-200ft/lbs is the final specs for the nut. Helps clarifying this would be great. Thanks.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
Whelp got the wrong wheel bearings and overhaul kit for my diff. Here are the part numbers for each bearing and seal. Note that the wheel outer seal, between the wheel bearing and dust cover or flange, will differ based on diameter.

Outer axle wheel bearing seal - 18545 (2.475") or 18731 (2.893")

Inner axle wheel bearing seal - 51098 timken, or 15142 BCA (was told 15141 is also the same?)

Wheel bearing - 88128-ra or set7 part number should be m201 or something.

Carrier bearings - 25577 - this might differ based on my conversation with the person, but 25577 is the set part number there is no interchange

Rear pinion bearing (nearest pinion gear) - 31594

Front pinion bearing - 02872
Seal for yoke - 15722



Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
Ran into a potential problem and have another question.

First the rear pinion bearing race (goes in the pumpkin) is the same part number as the one I removed. It's either not seating fully somehow, bearing hole is worn, or bearing race is defective. I can wiggle the new race into the hole about 1/2 way or so by hand and then use a driver to move it the rest of the way. But I can wiggle it out by hand...there's some grab to the meeting surfaces but definitely isn't tight like every other race I've ever had to seat. I'll see about fitting the old one and if there's the same feel and update. But was wondering if maybe I have two many shims behind it.

Which leads me to my next question, as I'm going by memory and don't remember 100%. There were two shims for sure behind this race. They were there when I went to clean out the diff today. I have a third one that I thought I remembered being in the space between the front and rear bearing races. Which doesn't make sense so I'd say it would have gone with the other two between the rear race and seat. It's possible it went behind the yoke/front side bearing but as far as I'm aware no shims go there, and I'm pretty sure it won't fit since that's a smaller diameter race seat.

I'm thinking that the race will be seat/held in place by the friction of it as is (can't turn it by hand when in the seat) and the pressure when yoke nut is torqued. But if this sounds like a recipe for disaster due to the race spinning in the seat then no obviously.



Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
I'd mike the new and the old and compare. I usually find the chassis part catalog that fits the year of Ford I'm working on and many of mine are on CD format. With factory part numbers a person can get closer to finding the right parts. I would avoid using a new bearing cup that is loose in a housing that has no sign of damage. It should be a drive fit. A person can use Loctite 680 but it would be hard to get it back out at the next go around. I would also check the stack height of the old and new Timken cone and cup combos to see if they are the same dimensions. They should be. If not, it will change the pinion depth. Allow some for wear but not a lot unless the old pinion was pretty loose.
 
If I put all my shims on I'm probably at 130/40 ft/lbs and not hitting 20 in/lbs, lowest the torque wrench goes. Going to check my depth as my first reading was a bit shallow so I added a shim. If it's still shallow, adding a shim should tighten things up on the preload side.

I remove a .013 shim and it's too tight. That's the smallest shim.



Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
Don't forget to oil your bearings when testing. Every resource I found said to make sure everything is super clean but nothing on oiling the bearings when checking preload.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
I just use light oil for set up but I do use oil. Motor oil would be better in alight grade but even 3in1 oil would work. With thick shims a person need a friend with a surface grinder.
 
Ended up getting things figured out. Also for the correct pinion seal for the 2-4-8091x, it's 44895.

Also note the 2-4-8091-1x does not have the correct spacing once the threads are drilled out, unless you get the appropriate u bolts I would guess.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top