Recent content by 30six

Mike: Look on Ebay. There is currently a 39 Deluxe hood with trim that looks like your photo.

Try this site: http://www.oldcarbrochures.com/static/NA/Mercury/1949_Mercury/dirindex.html

I had a body shop scan the back of my 36 glove box and mix matching color for Benton Gray metallic. Here are the codes he supplied:Here is code for BENTON GRAY METALLIC: 1936 FORD BENTON GRAY METALLIC. Hope this works for you. GARNISH MOLDING COLOR DUPONT CHROMA BASE ¼ PINT ½...

Truly vintage

I ran across this site this morning and thought it would be of interest to many on FORD BARN. ENJOY! http://www.lov2xlr8.no/ford.html

I ran across this site this morning and thought it would be of interest to many on FORD BARN. ENJOY! http://www.lov2xlr8.no/ford.htm

FIXED THANKS! Took shock off and reset link in place.

That is my next step once I get back into garage this morning. I have car home this weekend to complete soldering diode to wires from post earlier this week.

Mike: Will remove this morning and see what happens next. The shocks were rebuilt before I purchased the car.

Did not disconnect, just jacked car up at frame to connect wire at brake light.

My right rear shock arm on my 41 sedan is angled down some, not in almost horizontal position like others, about 3" down at end by link. I tried to move it back up and it will not move like there is too much pressure. Is there any way to remove pressure to get arm back to where it should be...

Thanks for the input. I can solder, but car is in storage and no electric near by. Looking for an easy possible temporary connection.

Can I use a solder less connector to attach diode to wire, or is soldering better?

Looking for either a 35,36,37 TUDOR SEDAN, SLANT BACK. A driver as original as possible, not a project. PM or Phone: 262-672-3114

Here is a link for a video showing the 1938 FORD assembly line. Enjoy, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3qRhY5JRWn0&feature=share