Solder less connectors for diode

Soldering is best for a superior electrical connection. Are you competent at soldering? - No 'cold' solder joints. You should use a heat-sink on the diode lead when soldering - aka, a long nose pliers or a metal roach clip....
 
Thanks for the input. I can solder, but car is in storage and no electric near by. Looking for an easy possible temporary connection.
 
It can be argued that a good crimp is as good or even better than solder. The trick is getting a good crimp, $2.99 harbor freight pliers won't get you there.
 
I don't know if this helps, but since I bought a "good" (read : expensive) crimper about a year ago, all of my wiring chores have been much easier with excellent results. I don't know how many years I suffered with those flat black things that Radio Shack and your average hardware store sells. Looking back, they were absolute junk. I also like the new connectors that come with their own shrink wrap insulation. That's another area where a proper tool is essential; I have had no luck with the old lady's hair dryer, and when I tried to use a match, I just set the tubing on fire. A proper heat gun makes everything easy.

It looks like Art types faster than me.
 
If you're going to have a crimped AND soldered connection, crimp the joint first and then solder. If you solder first (stranded wire) and then crimp, a high current may melt the solder and then there will be no pressure on the wire itself allowing it to come loose.
 
There are various Butane micro torches available that can do the job without electricity.
I have used mine to solder, heat, silver solder and on heat shrink tubing. ( Don't need a heat gun )
 
tubman said:
I don't know if this helps, but since I bought a "good" (read : expensive) crimper about a year ago, all of my wiring chores have been much easier with excellent results. I don't know how many years I suffered with those flat black things that Radio Shack and your average hardware store sells. Looking back, they were absolute junk. I also like the new connectors that come with their own shrink wrap insulation. That's another area where a proper tool is essential; I have had no luck with the old lady's hair dryer, and when I tried to use a match, I just set the tubing on fire. A proper heat gun makes everything easy.

It looks like Art types faster than me.
Click to expand...

What brand do you use of crimper and supplies?
 
The Robinson helicopters I work on have diodes all over the place and they crimp them all but they use aircraft quality butt splices too. If the diodes come with long tails, it's not a bad idea to double the ends over so the splice has more area to grip on. I put shrink wrap over the diode to protect them from the elements. I use several different crimp tools but the butt splices generally only need a standard smooth jaw crimp tool profile. The dimple type jaws can break the wire tails on the diodes.
 
I got my crimper and the shrink wrap connectors from Amazon. When I go to my shop today, I'll get more information.
 
I dealt with high voltage, high current connections for lots of years. A soldered connection always leaves a point in the wire that's very stiff even if the wire is flexible and makes it very likely to flex and break there. A good crimp has the connector curled around and bent into the middle like the pictures I attached. I have a couple tools but my favorite was made by "Robinair", I doubt they are still available. Terminals with plastic insulators are usually of soft metal and poor quality (for sure low temperature) If I use them, I remove the plastic and use heatshrink... multiple layers to provide "strain relief". Look at the pictures, notice the crimp on to the insulation? Strain relief!
 

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Those are an older type crimp splice or terminal what works well but a person generally uses some shrink tube to protect the circuit. I don't recall any butt splices being made in that type design. The later types have a bell shape on the inside so that the conductor can go in tight and a short length of the insulated part can also be secured. They have a heavy plastic insulator over the metal splice to protect them. They have to be crimped with small jaws for the smaller conductor portion and larger jaws for the insulated portion. All have to be crimped twice anywhere a wire is inserted. Here is a link to what they look like. http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/nylonsplices.php?clickkey=18123
 
I use a pertronix crimper kit. Excellent quality. Does a great job on spark plug wires. The only con is they have practically no instructions about the different jaws. You have to learn what things like open barrel terminals are. (the one shown in Art Newlands pictures)

Lifetime tool. I also use a micro torch for heat shrink.

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/new/details.aspx?ID=149

Costs $89 at Amazon

John
 
30six said:
Can I use a solder less connector to attach diode to wire, or is soldering better?
Click to expand...

On a diode, either solder or crimp will work, IF, the crimp tool is the positive closure type. That is the one you have to go through the complete closure cycle before it will re-open.
This type causes metal migration from the heat of compression. In other words, fusion welding.
 
The crimper I bought from Amazon was from "Titan Tools". In looking back, I see I only paid a little over $30 for it. It is one like "Pete" describes above that has to go "over center" to complete the crimp. It takes quite a squeeze, so I can believe that fusion welding may occur. Anyway, since I bought it, I have not had any problems with crimps.

I was in "Fastenal" the other day, and saw some 6:1 shrink wrap tubing. I haven't had a chance to use it, but maybe this is what I need when I forget to put the regular heat-shrink on before I do the crimp.:D It'll be interesting to see how it works.
 
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