Oil pan gasket

D

dronedog

Junior Member
Sorry I am sure this has been tackled many times but I can not find with a search.
I am replacing the oil pan gasket on my 30 sport coupe and was hoping for tips and some instruction. Read all I could fine but wanted to make sure I have it covered.
Pan is off and paint drying right now. I cut two bolts so they have no heads for guides.
I was going to
Put in the pump of course
Soak the gaskets in oil for 30 min. Then put permatex on the block and stick up the gasket sides. Put some permatex at the end of the front and rear seals. Put in the back sq gasket. Put the front one in the pan. Put permatex on the pan. Stick it up. Run the bolts up finger tight and let the whole thing sit for a couple of hours before running up the pan bolts.
Anything I am missing? Other tips?
Thanks
 
Mostly sounds good . I don't soak anything in oil. I permatex the gaskets to the block and not the pan . Make sure that the little tabs at the rear of the pan gaskets are in place under the square rear pan seal . Instead of cutting heads off of bolts, I like to use all thread so that I can use nuts to help pull the pan up next to the crankshaft pulley , because the rope seals will be a tight fit and you will need extra length to draw the pan up next to the front rope seals . . I don't cut the rope seals and they should protrude a bit on the ends, It will be a tight fit but the nuts will draw the pan in place and after all of the pan bolts are in place the temporary studs can be removed and replaced with the normal pan bolts . The front rope seals that I get from Brattons are teflon coated and are not suppose to be soaked in oil. Permatex on both sides of the pan gaskets is optiona . I prefer permatexing only the block side . If a problem arises you can remove and replace the pan with less risk of damage to the pan gaskets , if only the block side is permatexed. I prefer the thick paper pan gaskets because cork squeezes out the sides when the pan is tightened. Also when cork gaskets srink after a while the oil pan becomes loose and leaks. Just my thoughts and how I do mine.
 
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I use a LITTLE silicone each side of the front and rear seals and as Purdy says, make sure the tabs are in place. I, again like Purdy put nothing between the gasket and the pan (sump over here). If you do use permatex on both sides, you will have trouble when you come to remove it next time.
Also, don't make the common mistake of over tightening the screws.
 
I do have cork gaskets and the reason I was changing them is the old ones had pushed out. Can I prevent this now? I was hoping permatex on both side with some time to set up would keep that from happening.
 
I suppose that the only thing that will prevent cork gasket squeeze out is just don't tighten the pan bolts quiet as tight. After a few heat cycles go back and retighten as needed but not enough to cause squeeze out. Ford didn't have torque requirements. Its best to just use common sense when tightening and keep an eye on things untill everything settles down and the bolts will remain reasonaly tight without squeeze out. As Synchro909 I also use a small dab of silicone sealer at the sides of the seals where they protrude but not enough that will squeeze out and run the risk of getting in the oil pan, I forgot to mention this.
 
I was taught to soak cork gaskets in water, then spray with aluminum paint, then tie the gasket to the pan with cotton string, every other hole is too much, every third hole not quite enough. after pan bolts are started pull out the string.
I have also used heavy grease on the block, but wear goggles.
bob
 
If the gasket is tied to the oil pan, there will be no way for the tabs at the rear of the gasket to fit under the rear oil pan seal. Tieing the gasket to the oil pan may work with other engines but the design of the model A engine and oil pan gaskets calls for the tabs at the rear of the gasket to fit right up to the rear main bearing cap and into the recesses in the sides of the bearing cap. The rear pan seal fits over the main bearing cap and rests on top of the gasket tabs. If the gasket tabs are removed as in a short cut there will be a gap or weak spot at each side of the rear main bearing cap and it will leak !
 
I don't trim any of the gaskets or seals. I used to use just a thin grease on the gaskets, but now I put some sealant on the rear around the main Permatex 2 ( non-hardening) on the gasket. I only soak the front seal in oil, but some have said that's unnecessary. My dad used shellac shoe polish (!) on top and bottom of the gasket; that kept the gasket in place, but was a royal pain later when removing the pan.
 
I prefer the using the paper style pan gaskets they seal much better and never squeeze out and hold their form
You do need to dolly the pan sometimes for the paper style
 
Permatex says to let it sit an hour before tighening. I assumed so it would harden a little and not squeeze out when tightening. Keeping a little thickness that would compress when you tighten the bolts.
 
I put permatex on the pan, apply the gasket, and let it set for about 20 minutes. then silicone the block and attach the pan. The permatex will keep the gasket from squeezing out and the silicone will make it easy to clean up next time you drop the pan. Don't forget the oil pump.
 
glenn in camino said:
I put permatex on the pan, apply the gasket, and let it set for about 20 minutes. then silicone the block and attach the pan. The permatex will keep the gasket from squeezing out and the silicone will make it easy to clean up next time you drop the pan. Don't forget the oil pump.
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What do you do about the little tabs at the rear of the oil pan gaskets that are suppose to fit under the rear oil pan seal, cut them off ???
 
I ended up putting a small bead of permatex to the block and sticking the Gaskets on. I had to trim one of the tabs so it would fit in the groove for the rear seal. Good reason to dry fit first. I did soak the rear seal because it was cork.
I can see the reasoning for the all-thread but you must have them to a short length to get the pan in and then pushed up on them. I had to put the front end up first and then push up the back. The rear seal holds the pan away so I used a longer bolt with a nut on it after getting the pan over my guide pins. Then ran those nut up on the longer bolts to get the pan close enough for the regular bolts.
I also did put a bead of permatex on the pan side. I had some scratches on the pad that made me worry about leaks. Thinking I do not have to run the bolts up as tight for A good seal.
Bolts are hand tight using a nut driver and oily hands at this point. Gasket looks flat and even all the way around right now. Going to give it a couple of hours, try and tighten all the bolts just a tad and then fill with oil. Fire it up and let it get hot. Check it after that.
 
Installing the oil pan with the engine in the car isn't an easy job . If you steer the front wheels all the way to one side it will give more clearance from the tie rod at the front of the oil pan, we forgot to mention this. There are quiet a few things that must be considered when installing new pan gaskets and seals. Sometimes if float-A-motor rear mounts are used the engine has a tendency to creep foward to where the front pan bolts are very difficult to install. It sounds like yopu've got it going your way. Good luck.
 
Forget Permatex #2, use Permatex, "The Right Stuff" instead. Fantastic product, gasket will never leak, agree with setting gasket on block first. I've never had a gasket leak since I've used "The Right Stuff"...:)
 
I've even heard of some using silicone and no gasket, haven't tried that on the oil pan
but it works good on the water neck on the head .
 
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