1 wire alternator - battery connection?

Jack 34pu

Senior Member
Is the 1 wire alternator connected to the battery even when the ign sw is off? I'm trying to follow the diagram and it looks like there is a problem. How about some input from Barners using the one wire unit.
 
Sure is, usually where the battery cable hooks to the solenoid; but could be elsewhere. Some people can get really creative when wiring stuff.
 
in my opinion you will be much better off using the chevy 3 wire alt, more dependable and no issuses like you will find on the one wire, one wire alts the motor may need to be wound up to 1800 rpm to excite them, and they have been known to not disconnect electrically and run the batt down over nite
 
I installed a single wire alt 18 yrs ago or so with no problems. Lead goes to the starter solenoid, shuts off with the ign. and starts charging at idle. Mine is a 70's GM alt. with an internal regulator installed by an auto electrical shop.
 
in my opinion you will be much better off using the chevy 3 wire alt, more dependable and no issuses like you will find on the one wire, one wire alts the motor may need to be wound up to 1800 rpm to excite them, and they have been known to not disconnect electrically and run the batt down over nite

MadElectric perpetuates that notion, but it is just not true of modern 1-wires.
 
I think the 1 wire is as good as the 3 wire however the one main advantage of the three wire alternator as I see it is that you have to run an ignition light with it as part of its system.

This will tell you straight away if you are on the move and you have a fan belt or pulley failure.
The ignition light will let you know something is wrong before you cook the engine.
 
I had my 1 wire Internal Regulator changed.
it now charges from the get go.
Not that expensive to have done.
I had the Regulator ( and because they were in there I had them change the Bearings.)
Cost was less then $ 50.00
 
I have Powermaster one wire and have no issues - connected to starter solenoid - I also added a good ground to frame.
 
.......the one main advantage of the three wire alternator as I see it is that you have to run an ignition light with it as part of its system.
This will tell you straight away if you are on the move and you have a fan belt or pulley failure.
The ignition light will let you know something is wrong before you cook the engine.

The warning light can be helpful, as it alerted me of a problem with my 10SI on my avatar. But another big advantage of the 10/12SI factory three wire circuitry is the voltage "sense" feedback (#2) wire, that minimizes any voltage drop between the alternator and main power distribution.
 
I've been using the S3 Ford alternators for a few years and would never go back to those junky Delcos. They do take 2 wires, one always hot and one hot with ign. switch on. They are not only more trouble free but the make 95% of the rated amps at idle and the brushes and regulator come out the back instead of splitting the case. I get them for $5-$10 at the junkyards.
 
I would like to see a sketch of the wiring for 1 wire alternator to starter solenoid as mine has the floor button starter switch. I take it I am not to use the original wire from the generator?
 
We hook up one wire alternators to the wire formerly used on the regulator for that purpose. If the regulator was left in place, just put the alternator wire to the BATT post. Be sure to tape up the ARM and FLD wires, along with the Batt wires on the engine side of the wires. The connection to the system is controlled by the built in regulator in the alternator.
 
Jack 34pu, Your vehicle originally ran three brush generator- right? Single wire from the cutout? Just connect that wire to the back of your single wire alt, and you're good to go.
 
One, two or three wire .... all can do the job. I have been using a Delco 10SI 3-wire for years. A resistor was substituted for the modern glow light and my amp and volt gauges should indicate if the belt brakes.
 
Back
Top