'57 Tbird timing

[Milt K from Pa]

Barners,
I was not expecting to adjust my timing, but during the installation of the tach drive cable, I found out the hard way that the distributor bolt was not tight, the distrib turned. Now that the carb is back on, I wanted to set timing. With the line disconnected from the distrib end, ( and capped to hold vacuum), I connected a vacuum gauge to the manifold line. I started it and found that with maximum vacuum, I was spinning the distrib fully clockwise for max RPM and VACUUM. The timing marks were about two inches from the pointer,(advanced)and it ran smooth. If I moved the timing pointer near the marks on the pulley, the engine would run really rough. Vacuum with the distrib fully clockwise was 19 to 20 lbs mercury. It dropped a lot when set near the marks.
Anything come to anybody's mind on the problem. I was hoping to set the initial timing to 6 to 8 degrees BTC, as described in the manual.

Thanks for any assistance

Milt K from Pa.

 

[54vicky]

most likely the outer ring on damper has moved.I would pull it off and change it.it will only move more and when it finally comes apart and it will.you will spend a lot more than the cost of a new damper just to repair the pieces it will destroy plus towing to get it home

 

[miker98038]

While 54vicky is likely right, it would be worth checking TDC first. I'm sure you can find instructions on how to do that. Most y blocks also like a little more than factory timing. 8- 12 initial, depending on the dizzy curve and octane of fuel being.

 

[scicala]

While 54vicky is likely right, it would be worth checking TDC first. I'm sure you can find instructions on how to do that. Most y blocks also like a little more than factory timing. 8- 12 initial, depending on the dizzy curve and octane of fuel being.

Miker98038 is right on the money with the timing advice and not jumping in and changing parts before you do some basic diagnostic work.

I was never a fan of setting timing with a vacuum gage either. Make sure you know true top dead center and set timing with a light.

 

[Oldmics]

If you have a correct balancer for a T Bird,the timing marks are on the portion of the pulley that cant move .

If you have had a replacement engine or some sort of repair that has discarded the original T Bird pulley then there would be concern about the balancers outer area moving.

Oldmics

 

[Milt K from Pa]

Guys,
Thanks for the comments. I've only had the Bird a couple of months, so I don't know which front damper is on the car right now, but it appeared correct. The timing chain was changed shortly before I bought the car, and I would trust the mechanic that changed it, but you never know!!

Milt K from Pa

 

[Ole Don]

Any Y block responds very well to way more initial advance than the book calls for. If you have driven the car enough so you know it has fresh gas all through the system, use the vacuum gauge for timing. Up against the manifold for the advance pot is where they usually like to be. If you can lug the engine just a little without pinging, and it starts cold and hot, leave it. It will be way more fun to drive that way.

 

[Milt K from Pa]

Ole Don,
Sounds about where I found it liked to be, full clockwise!! In the middle of this, my carb began to leak, seems to be from the accelerator diaphragm. Couldn't find any tears in it. must be a pin-hole, leaks under pumping pressure. I think I would like to send it and get it rebuilt. Looking for a GOOD reputable rebuilder. I know it has had a rough life. Anyone have a good rebuilder I could use??

I found a company online called The Carburetor Shop, in Sana Ana, Calif. Any comments out there on this company??? Any other suggestions??

Thanx,

Milt K from Pa

 

[scicala]

Ole Don,
Sounds about where I found it liked to be, full clockwise!! In the middle of this, my carb began to leak, seems to be from the accelerator diaphragm. Couldn't find any tears in it. must be a pin-hole, leaks under pumping pressure. I think I would like to send it and get it rebuilt. Looking for a GOOD reputable rebuilder. I know it has had a rough life. Anyone have a good rebuilder I could use??

I found a company online called The Carburetor Shop, in Sana Ana, Calif. Any comments out there on this company??? Any other suggestions??

Thanx,

Milt K from Pa

Hello Milt,

I have been rebuilding/restoring carburetors since 1968 and have a lot of experience with 1950's Ford products. Have done very many 1957 T-Bird 312 Holley 4 barrels and also the '57 T-Bird Holley 2 barrels on the 292's.
All of my work is fully guaranteed.

I will attach some pictures of one I did within the last year.

If you are interested, you can send me a Personal Message thru the Ford Barn for details.

Thanks, Sal Cicala

 

[scicala]

Milt, I sent a reply to you're PM. Please let me know if you did not receive it, since it acted a little strange when I sent it to you.

Thanks, Sal Cicala

 

[dmsfrr]

Guys,
Thanks for the comments. I've only had the Bird a couple of months, so I don't know which front damper is on the car right now, but it appeared correct. The timing chain was changed shortly before I bought the car, and I would trust the mechanic that changed it, but you never know!!

Milt K from Pa

If you have a correct balancer for a T Bird,the timing marks are on the portion of the pulley that cant move .

If you have had a replacement engine or some sort of repair that has discarded the original T Bird pulley then there would be concern about the balancers outer area moving.

Oldmics

Here are 2 pictures of two 55/57 T-Bird damper pulleys. Note the deep center and 6 rivets on the front.
Oldmics is correct, the timing marks are on the rear lip of the V-belt portion of the pulley. Yes the rubber mounted damper weight behind the pulleys can slip (or come off & cause significant damage) but it won't change the timing marks.

 

[Milt K from Pa]

DMSFRR,
Thanks for your photos on the dampers. When you set the timing on the 312 Y blocks, ('57 only) do you leave the vacuum line from the carb to the distributor connected in setting the initial timing?? After that point, would the higher RPM's move the timing to the proper advance with the vacuum connected?? What's your step by step procedure in setting timing??
Thanks in advance.

Milt K from Pa

 

[dmsfrr]

DMSFRR,
Thanks for your photos on the dampers. When you set the timing on the 312 Y blocks, ('57 only) do you leave the vacuum line from the carb to the distributor connected in setting the initial timing?? After that point, would the higher RPM's move the timing to the proper advance with the vacuum connected?? What's your step by step procedure in setting timing??
Thanks in advance.

Milt K from Pa

The vacuum line should be disconnected and plugged when setting the initial timing. Yes, the vacuum will take over from there. Follow the good advice given a few posts back in this thread from the folks who've been doing this much longer than me.
Did you notice neither of the engines in the pictures are complete?
I've had my 55 for just over 2 years but it was only running for the first few months before I had to find & rebuild a replacement for the bad engine & also get the trans rebuilt. There have been several non-automotive Honey-Do projects around here and I hope to have the car back together by the end of this year.