Electric Fuel Pump

Admiral

Admiral

Well-known member
I'm looking to put a backup electric fuel pump on my car as many other flathead drivers have. I want a 12-volt pump for intermittent use in order to prime the carburetor bowl or combat vapor lock in hot weather. It needs to be of the "suck through" variety so the factory mechanical pump can still draw gas through it. I've seen that Airtex models have been highly recommended in other posts. Will this one on Amazon meet my needs? It's 12 volts but is it a "suck through"? It's the E8016S model. If this won't work can you recommend a 12-volt model that will?

LINK: http://www.amazon.com/Airtex-E8016S-Electric-Fuel-Pump/dp/B000C1LW0E/?tag=atomicindus08-20


Thanks!

- Craig
 
PSI shut off: 2.5 - 4.5
Inlet/outlet size: 5/16" hose
Volts: 12
I have three of the 6V versions and all work fine.
 
The Airtex pumps work fine, I have them in both 6 and 12 volts. I would suggest that you go to the electric pump as your primary pump. I just did this conversion on our '39 CS. Marv (on the FordBarn) converted an OEM pump to a "pass through" so, under the hood everything looks stock but you have the added assurance of constant fuel flow. In addition, you don't have to worry about the OEM diaphragm failing and having fuel flow into the crankcase. I just converted another OEM fuel pump to a "pass through" and I'm going to install it on our '39 LZ. With the electric pump on the '39 CS, Vapor Lock has become a distant memory...;) Oh, don't forget to install a fuel pressure regulator with the electric fuel pump, I set them at 2.5.
 
Personally, I like the idea of having both pumps operating as I have had one electric pump fail. If I hadn't had the mechanical one working I'da been stuck. So, I keep the mechanical pump as primary and electric as backup.

Airtex E8016S is correct for 12 volts. But, as others have said, unless it is only on for a few seconds you'll need a pressure regulator as these pumps tend to run at the high end of the pressure range (4.5 psi) rather than the low end which would overwhelm the carb float valve and flood.
 
Bill, Unfortunately, I didn't take any photos to show what Marv and I did to convert the pumps.:o I'll do my best to explain. The pumps we used are without the glass sediment bowl (however, I'm going to try to modify one of them next). First, you need to disassemble the pump and gut it. Take everything out except the filter screen in the top section. Second, invert the top section and install a metal piece that fits the interior diameter of the top section of the pump. (I used a sliding door recessed "thumb pull", it had a lip that I ground off and it fit inside the pump). This creates a larger area for fuel to accumulate (not sure how that will work as I have not tried it yet). Third, I mixed up some JB Wield and filled the small void between the fuel pump edge and the "metal cup". I let the pump set up overnight and filled the cavity with fuel the next day to see if any leaked out... there were no leaks :) so I reattached the two sections of the pump, using the diaphragm as a gasket (no fuel will reach this part, but using the gasket gives an original look to the pump). On the "dome" I coated the gasket with Indian Head Shellac and tightened it down. The dome section is the only place fuel can leak from as long as you have the correct fittings for the fuel inlet and outlet. Once I finished the pump I mounted it on the stand using the gasket and installed the assembly on the intake manifold, also using a gasket. I leave the push rod in place (some may want to remove it and plug the hole). I also installed a "kill switch" for the electric fuel pump, if it ever becomes necessary to halt the flow of fuel. Sorry for the rather long winded explanation, I know I should have taken some photos of the conversion...:o Next time I'll be sure to do that.
 
Old Henry said:
Personally, I like the idea of having both pumps operating as I have had one electric pump fail. If I hadn't had the mechanical one working I'da been stuck. So, I keep the mechanical pump as primary and electric as backup.

Airtex E8016S is correct for 12 volts. But, as others have said, unless it is only on for a few seconds you'll need a pressure regulator as these pumps tend to run at the high end of the pressure range (4.5 psi) rather than the low end which would overwhelm the carb float valve and flood.
Click to expand...

The only problem I see with your method is, if the diaphragm fails, fuel will flow into the crank case... Not good unless you want to wash the bearings...:eek: I do agree with you when it comes to having a back up, that is why I carry a "known to be good" mechanical pump, in the vehicles I've converted to electric fuel pumps... Another reason for leaving the push rod in. ;)
 
I have been using a carter electric pump (4 lbs.)on a switch to push the fuel through the stock mechanical pump. Prior to starting I flip the switch on and fill the three carbs. I then start the engine and flip off the switch. This works fine until I run past 40 MPH. Lack of fuel causes missing. I have to switch back on. The mechanical cannot pull fuel thru the electric pump and two filters(one before the fuel pump and another between the electric and mechanical). With the hood open and the engine idling and the electric switch on fuel weeps out of the diaphragm gasket. I haven't had a need for a fuel regulator on my system. I am now building a pass thru mechanical similar to Vic Piano above.
 
A lot of informative suggestions, guys. Thanks for the help.

Vic Piano said:
The Airtex pumps work fine, I have them in both 6 and 12 volts. I would suggest that you go to the electric pump as your primary pump. I just did this conversion on our '39 CS. Marv (on the FordBarn) converted an OEM pump to a "pass through" so, under the hood everything looks stock but you have the added assurance of constant fuel flow. In addition, you don't have to worry about the OEM diaphragm failing and having fuel flow into the crankcase. I just converted another OEM fuel pump to a "pass through" and I'm going to install it on our '39 LZ. With the electric pump on the '39 CS, Vapor Lock has become a distant memory...;) Oh, don't forget to install a fuel pressure regulator with the electric fuel pump, I set them at 2.5.
Click to expand...

How often have you seen diaphragms fail? The pump I'm running has a glass sediment bowl; it's been totally rebuilt with modern innards so today's ethanol-laced fuel shouldn't be an issue.
 
i dont recall seeing fuel pump failure causing fuel in crankcase but i know it can happen.i think its rare.i ve used that pump many times with no problems.dont put too many filters in.
 
Vic Piano said:
The only problem I see with your method is, if the diaphragm fails, fuel will flow into the crank case... Not good unless you want to wash the bearings...:eek: I do agree with you when it comes to having a back up, that is why I carry a "known to be good" mechanical pump, in the vehicles I've converted to electric fuel pumps... Another reason for leaving the push rod in. ;)
Click to expand...

Vic/Bill,

This past winter while in Florida, I saw a setup at Joe's garage in Daytona Beach that addresses this question. It was a setup that I have not seen before. Basically, it was the electric fuel pump "in parallel" with the original mechanical pump (with a check valve). That way, if the diaphragm of the mech. pump failed, no fuel would get into the engine.
 
To address your questions,;) I have seen the diaphragm fail on several pumps in the last few years, in particular on glass sediment bowl equipped pumps.:eek: While gas getting into the crankcase may be considered a rare occurrence, it can, and does happen. I've never been a fan of using a combination of OEM manual and electric fuel pumps, but that's just me.;) I'm not saying that the conversion of the OEM pumps to "pass trough's" is the end-all, I'm just saying that it has worked for me in the '39 CS to the point that vapor lock has been vanquished, from the day I installed the electric fuel pump with the converted OEM pump.:) I'm pleased with this conversion to the point that I intend to convert all of our Flatheads to this fuel delivery system... In my way of thinking, its more fun to drive down the road than to sit along side of it because of vapor lock!
 
Admiral said:
A lot of informative suggestions, guys. Thanks for the help.



How often have you seen diaphragms fail? The pump I'm running has a glass sediment bowl; it's been totally rebuilt with modern innards so today's ethanol-laced fuel shouldn't be an issue.
Click to expand...

The new "Corn gas" has two traits that are definitely not Flathead friendly...:eek: First, the alcohol blend in the gas has a tendency to eat rubber hoses, diaphragms, etc.:( Second, I'm told that the "Corn gas" has a lower boiling point which leads to Vapor Lock.:mad: Allegedly, the new and improved rubber product being used by some, if not all, the OEM style fuel pump rebuilders and manufacturers, has alleviated the first problem :) however, the lower boiling point of the "Corn Gas" has to be dealt with differently. Several FordBarner's have experimented with varying results.:confused: My limited mechanical aptitude, coupled with my inherent laziness, has prompted me to take the "easy road" and apparently, I have found a solution.:D:cool: At least it works for me.;)
 
The Facet pump made by Purolater in NY, USA would be my choice as it comes in various pressure out puts and voltages, and is self regulating so it maintain a pre-determined pressure. No regulator needed. Aircraft and Spruce sells them because they are often used in experimental aircraft, so you know they are reliable. They are about $33.00. The tech support at Purolater on the Facet is excellent. 607 737 8011. The 40163 is rated at 1.5 to 2.5 PSI, at 17 GPH. I run one through my mechanical pump on an 8RT
 
russcc said:
The Facet pump made by Purolater in NY, USA would be my choice as it comes in various pressure out puts and voltages, and is self regulating so it maintain a pre-determined pressure. No regulator needed. Aircraft and Spruce sells them because they are often used in experimental aircraft, so you know they are reliable. They are about $33.00. The tech support at Purolater on the Facet is excellent. 607 737 8011. The 40163 is rated at 1.5 to 2.5 PSI, at 17 GPH. I run one through my mechanical pump on an 8RT
Click to expand...

The Facet pumps sounds good, maybe I'll try one in the '39 LZ as I haven't bought an electric pump for it yet. I like not having to add a pressure regulator to the fuel system, two less places for possible leakage...
 
I use the Facet pumps all the time. Never had on fail and the mechanical pump can pull right through them.
 
Hi there, Facet elect pumps are not made in 6 volt versions as far as I can see. Only 12 or 24 volts. I have found AIRTEX to be good especially if used in series with the mechanical pump. For flathead fords use the following LOWER PRESSURE pumps. AIRTEX E8016S, 12 volt, 2 - 4 psi. AIRTEX E8902, 6 volt, 2 - 4 psi. Pumps will work pos. or neg. to ground, (just swap the two wires around). Depending on the vehicle, may or may not require a pressure regulator. Try first without a regulator and check for carburettor flooding. Regards, Kevin.
 
No personal experience but I recently bumped in to an old article by Walt Brewer. He ran an electric in series with the mechanical for many years but eventually changed his thinking to run the electric in parallel (to a tee between mech pump and carb). His reasons were that the electric was too much restriction, the mech pumps failed due to the series setup *, and the electric could pump fuel into the crankcase when the mech diaphragm failed. So, he recommended using the electric pump in parallel with the mechanical pump.


*Too much (-) pressure when the electric was off and/or too much (+) pressure when electric is on.
 
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