Need Ignition Help!!!

Houston Rodder

Houston Rodder

Member
Recently I purchased a 30' coupe. It idled fine but backfired at speed. The Tillotson Model X carb leaked horribly when the gas was left on. I assumed there was blockage in the carb making the vehicle run lean. So, I purchased a Tillotson rebuild kit and proceeded to rebuild the carb. The Model X was very warped which is why it was leaking. I resurfaced the carb body with sand paper and files. Now the carb goes together flush. The fuel flow from the gas tank appears sufficient.
After rebuilding the carb I reconnected everything and the vehicle started well but again it was backfiring. Timing right?
So, I hooked my test light to the coil and ground. The 6 volt bulb stays on regardless of if the ignition switch is on or off. In addition the bulb only dims and brightens as I twist the adjustment after loosening the flat head screw under the rotor.
Obviously, I am lost in matters of the ignition.
 

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You need to move your test light to the other primary terminal on the coil.

I time it the Ford way and just look to see when the points start to open.
 
Well, Huston, SORRY you got troubles, I tiped you a LOOOONG post that "might" help, then my mouse mal-functioned & wouldn't move & the red light in it DIED! Got a hitch in my back, tryin' to git the danged plug back in tight! Mouse light came back on, BUT thet little arrow/finger thingy wouldn't MOVE! THEN, the smart assed Dog sed, "Restart yo' computator"!----IT WORKED!!!!----"How'd you know that, Dog"?-----"Gregg tole me that, once"---We sure miss Gregg!
By then, I lost the post & I'm too TIRED to re-tipe it, GOIN' TO BED!!
Hopefully, sumbody thet knows stuff & tipes FAST, can help you.----Bill W.
(OH! & when I FINALLY got back on the Barn, I had to RE-REGISTER +*@%^%$##$*---BUT, aren't you proud of me, I REMEMBERED MY PASSWURD!)
 
Do a search on this site, how to time has been covered a lot with a lot of good info and links.
 
Houston Rodder said:
Recently I purchased a 30' coupe. It idled fine but backfired at speed. The Tillotson Model X carb leaked horribly when the gas was left on. I assumed there was blockage in the carb making the vehicle run lean. So, I purchased a Tillotson rebuild kit and proceeded to rebuild the carb. The Model X was very warped which is why it was leaking. I resurfaced the carb body with sand paper and files. Now the carb goes together flush. The fuel flow from the gas tank appears sufficient.
After rebuilding the carb I reconnected everything and the vehicle started well but again it was backfiring. Timing right?
So, I hooked my test light to the coil and ground. The 6 volt bulb stays on regardless of if the ignition switch is on or off. In addition the bulb only dims and brightens as I twist the adjustment after loosening the flat head screw under the rotor.
Obviously, I am lost in matters of the ignition.
Click to expand...

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showpost.php?p=750277&postcount=2
 
Houston Rodder said:
Recently I purchased a 30' coupe. It idled fine but backfired at speed. The Tillotson Model X carb leaked horribly when the gas was left on. I assumed there was blockage in the carb making the vehicle run lean. So, I purchased a Tillotson rebuild kit and proceeded to rebuild the carb. The Model X was very warped which is why it was leaking. I resurfaced the carb body with sand paper and files. Now the carb goes together flush. The fuel flow from the gas tank appears sufficient.
After rebuilding the carb I reconnected everything and the vehicle started well but again it was backfiring. Timing right?
So, I hooked my test light to the coil and ground. The 6 volt bulb stays on regardless of if the ignition switch is on or off. In addition the bulb only dims and brightens as I twist the adjustment after loosening the flat head screw under the rotor.
Obviously, I am lost in matters of the ignition.
Click to expand...
Mike has it right but you must understand, the ignition circuit is not like modern cars. The power is from the battery to the coil first and then to the switch, making the coil hot all the time when checked to a ground. Without the ground, it is simply a wire hooked to the battery. Modern cars have the battery going to the switch first so, when the switch is off, you get no reading at the coil.
 
as tom mentioned your test light is on the wrong side of the coil. if you have an inline spark tester you'll be able to determine if the spark is erratic causing the backfire. make sure your ferrules on the fuel line ends are not set to far back. you would have good fuel flow until the line is reconnected.
 
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