Hoping for decent babbitt

One more issue... I swear, they never stop. Have a crack between the exhaust seat (loose term really - no seat left due to erosion) and the cylinder. Crack runs about 5/8 inch down the cylinder. Can this be fixed without exposing the block to temps that will destroy the babbitt main bearing material I am hoping to save?

Can you tell that I am trying to save/use my block?

I have enclosed pictures of a Typical Model A valve seat crack as you've inquired about.
Yes it can be repaired as long as the shop you choose knows how to repair it.
I have also shown what real babbitt would look like rather than the Lead "fishing sinker" quality you have on your block.

To answer another question regarding sleeving a block. It doesn't cause overheating . Since we are replacing the iron of the original sleeve with like cast iron the heat transfer remains the same as if the block was to original size.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_8132.JPG
    IMG_8132.JPG
    46.3 KB · Views: 86
  • IMG_8218.jpg
    IMG_8218.jpg
    23.6 KB · Views: 92
  • IMG_1964.JPG
    IMG_1964.JPG
    46.6 KB · Views: 95
  • IMG_5279.JPG
    IMG_5279.JPG
    56.8 KB · Views: 89
I have enclosed pictures of a Typical Model A valve seat crack as you've inquired about.
Yes it can be repaired as long as the shop you choose knows how to repair it.
I have also shown what real babbitt would look like rather than the Lead "fishing sinker" quality you have on your block.

To answer another question regarding sleeving a block. It doesn't cause overheating . Since we are replacing the iron of the original sleeve with like cast iron the heat transfer remains the same as if the block was to original size.

Nobody said that sleeving a block causes overheating!!!!!!! I simply stated that sleeving cylinders contribute to higher tempertures. It doesn't make a damn what the sleeves are made of. Sleeves are not part of the block and CAN'T transfer heat to the water jacket the same as the original cylinders that were actually part of the block. You need to go back to school!!! Several things can contribute to overheating but not cause overheating alone. Sleeving all of the cylinders is certainly a big contributor to overheating. Engine builders that know what they are doing only use sleeves to save an engine and then only the cylinders that must be sleeved.
 
Nobody said that sleeving a block causes overheating!!!!!!! I simply stated that sleeving cylinders contribute to higher tempertures. It doesn't make a damn what the sleeves are made of. Sleeves are not part of the block and CAN'T transfer heat to the water jacket the same as the original cylinders that were actually part of the block. You need to go back to school!!! Several things can contribute to overheating but not cause overheating alone. Sleeving all of the cylinders is certainly a big contributor to overheating. Engine builders that know what they are doing only use sleeves to save an engine and then only the cylinders that must be sleeved.

I disagree with you since every sleeved engine we've done has needed a thermostat to get up to temperature.

Furthermore if you are reduced to insulting me with the "Go back to school" comment you've lost the arguement.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_5269.JPG
    IMG_5269.JPG
    53.1 KB · Views: 51
  • IMG_5279.JPG
    IMG_5279.JPG
    56.8 KB · Views: 56
  • IMG_5280.JPG
    IMG_5280.JPG
    60.2 KB · Views: 55
No argument, Just the facts !!! The sleeves lose some of the heat transfer where they contact the block. Sleeves are not part of the block and simply can't transfer the heat the same. Everybody knows that sleeved engines are still useable, Some may run cool enough. Many things can contribute to hiugher engine temps. Sleeving cylinders is one of them. This is why most only use sleeves as a last resort. The only people argueing is Herman and you. People can do as they please. I just give common sense advise . I have nothing to gain or lose . I've got a small fleet of model A's and have made my own repairs for over 50 years. There will usually be some that feel threatened by anybody that has real world experience. I'm not intimidated .This is all that I have to say on this subject at this time. Take it or leave it.
 
To try and make myself clear, I'm not saying that an engine shouldn't be sleeved. I've overhauled and run engines with sleeves . If one of my blocks had sleeves and the babbit was in usable shape , I would sure overhaul it and use it, if I needed it.

As for the babbit being fishing weight lead, I doubt that!!! Babbit that was running loose will look dark but can clean up. Old engines that haven't run in a long time is not going to have a mirror polished surface. The engine in the coupe had dark babbit. I had stored it in an old school bus for 19 years. I took the engine to my shop in 1991. I cleaned it up, had it bored out to .080. I installed rebabbited rods , new pistons, rings and valves and its still running good now, 23 years later. If the babbit lasted long enough to wear out the top end and still looks that good , it must be pretty good. I would worry more about the rust on the crankshaft. I've had pretty good luck polishing up slightly rusty crank shafts. Local machine shops have almost become a thing of the past. I think there are some good machine shops in Birmingham that can do the machine work and sleeve the cylinder.
 
I deleted some posts from this thread... A reminder:

A difference of opinion is fine. However, if you can't express your opinion without bagging on other users, your account will not last long here.
 
Mr. J & M Machine You are right about the mains being Lead, and so are the Rods.

None of the grooving is Ford's by a long shot.

If that is truly the case, it is unfortunate. I thought the babbitt was in good condition for ~20 years of age, particularly given how tired the rest of the engine is. If it's not usable, I'll be picking up a rebuilt engine and I'll probably look for something with inserted bearings instead. Babbitt seems to be a dying art that no one near me knows how to do and few out here seem to be able to agree on.

Thanks to all for the comments.
 
If that is truly the case, it is unfortunate. I thought the babbitt was in good condition for ~20 years of age, particularly given how tired the rest of the engine is. If it's not usable, I'll be picking up a rebuilt engine and I'll probably look for something with inserted bearings instead. Babbitt seems to be a dying art that no one near me knows how to do and few out here seem to be able to agree on.

Thanks to all for the comments.

If all your bearings look like the pictures that you have shown, polish the crank out and see if the pits, if any will mark the babbitt.

The only thing about lead babbitt is it won't take the high speed pounding, and any over clearanced bearing will have a tendency to pound out.

So if the babbitt is not cracked any place, and you set the clearance right, it should last a long time.

Also see what the end play is?
 
Back
Top