trying to remove rear drum

H. L. Chauvin said:
Hi Todd,

Just having the intestinal fortitude to first ask a question on this Forum indicates you are not somebody to give up easily -- hang in there.

When you loosen the rear wheel axle nut & go for a spin, please do not take your wife for a ride & let her know what you are trying.

Women always think we are crazy -- only men try such things like this & they usually always work! LOL
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Thanks for the encouragement if it does work it won't be the first time I have had wheels come off a car I was in.
 
my suggestion is take two 5# single jack hammers, use one as a back up on one side of the drum snout, smack the opposit side of the snout pretty hard, do that all the way around the snout maybe two times, doing that distorts the snout just a tiny bit, just enough to loosen the bond caused by the taper in the snout, do that with the hub puller attached and with a good pull on the drum, if possible screw the nut on a few threads to stop the drum from flying off and hitting some one,
 
Todd,
Tighten the puller as tight as you can get it, then leave the pressure on it overnight or longer.
Cheers,
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
Hi Todd,

Just having the intestinal fortitude to first ask a question on this Forum indicates you are not somebody to give up easily -- hang in there.

When you loosen the rear wheel axle nut & go for a spin, please do not take your wife for a ride & let her know what you are trying.

Women always think we are crazy -- only men try such things like this & they usually always work! LOL
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Right on H.L.
 
Tiny said:
Toss that one that bolts to the drum, they are good for early 60's Chrysler's but the clamshell is the best for the A. It takes an unbelievable amount of Armstrong power. I believe the first time I had to use a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a "cheater"
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I have one that "bolts to the drum" and it works well. Before I had this, I had a stuck drum and I tried a clam shell type and it didn't get the job done. A friend of mine loaned me a big Snap On "bolts to the drum" type and a few good whacks with a 5 lb. hammer and it got the job done - easily!

YMMV
 
One thing no one has suggested, put the nut on backwards just even with the end of the threads to keep the end of the threads from mushrooming out.
 
I had one like this once. After tightening the puller as much as I dared, I then took two 2pound hammers. Placed one on the side of the hub and gave the other side a light smack with the other hammer. The hub popped right off.

Notice: This will likely mar your paint.

Good luck.
 
Hi Todd,

Thinking of hammer methods as opposed to hub pullers, Mr. Paul Moller in his little Red Model A Manual describes a hub removal method of:

1. Allowing the difficult wheel/hub to rest on the garage floor with body weight; &,

2. Next, jacking up the opposite side wheel/hub after turning this opposite axle nut backwards & flush with the end of the threaded axle; &,

3. Then, "Wacking" the raised axle end & flush nut with a hammer.

4. Maybe sounds like a Voodoo Spell Method; but who knows ........ just think ...... the hammer force on the opposite end is "centered" ................... but the resistance force on the difficult hub, instead of being "centered", it is "off-centered", i.e., down low near the garage floor.

5. Could be worth a try!
 
I got it off, I used my hub puller that bolts to the studs put pressure on it with the center bolt, I tried to hit it with a hammer but nothing. The next thing with the puller on it I used a torch and started to heat it up and after a couple of minutes it popped off the hub so hard it flew two feet on to the floor fortunately I was standing to the side of it. Thanks for all the suggestions.
On a non A related not we received a new toy, passport transport delivered us a fully restored with no miles 37 Buick model 60 convertible with rumble seat today looking forward to showing this car.
Todd 3131
 
Hi Todd,

1. Thanks for being a gentleman by letting us know that you succeeded in getting your difficult hub off.

2. Thanks for taking the time to let us know "how" you got it off.

3. And more importantly, thanks also for reporting on the safety tip of staying clear of the flying hub which could have caused bodily harm to someone holding the torch or just a bystander being very close to the hub removal attempt.

4. Very much appreciated & informative for the next Model A owner's difficult hub removal project.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
Hi Todd,

1. Thanks for being a gentleman by letting us know that you succeeded in getting your difficult hub off.

2. Thanks for taking the time to let us know "how" you got it off.

3. And more importantly, thanks also for reporting on the safety tip of staying clear of the flying hub which could have caused bodily harm to someone holding the torch or just a bystander being very close to the hub removal attempt.

4. Very much appreciated & informative for the next Model A owner's difficult hub removal project.
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Your welcome and thank you for the kind words.
todd
 
Yep, its always good to hear the outcomes. Its a good thing to leave the axle nut on too so the drum doesn't fly off into the next county.
 
todd3131 said:
I got it off, I used my hub puller that bolts to the studs put pressure on it with the center bolt, I tried to hit it with a hammer but nothing. The next thing with the puller on it I used a torch and started to heat it up and after a couple of minutes it popped off the hub so hard it flew two feet on to the floor fortunately I was standing to the side of it. Thanks for all the suggestions.
On a non A related not we received a new toy, passport transport delivered us a fully restored with no miles 37 Buick model 60 convertible with rumble seat today looking forward to showing this car.
Todd 3131
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Next time, leave the "nut" on it,......okay.
 
Patrick L. said:
Its obvious that some folks don't read the posts, cracks me up.
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I didn't want it on it had mushroomed before and the outer threads were nonexistent so I didn't want it to mushroom and not be able to get the nut off. I made the correct call for the situation, you would have if you had been there also.
 
Todd,
What I have done to protect the threads as well as keep things from flying off is to take the nut off, turn it around so that the castle part is toward the hub. screw it on till the nut and axle are exactly flush with each other. This provides a larger surface to "hit" on, and at the same time protects the threads from mushrooming. Not saying you did it wrong, just saying this is how I approached it. (Learned this "trick" in the school of hard knocks!)
 
todd3131 said:
I didn't want it on it had mushroomed before and the outer threads were nonexistent so I didn't want it to mushroom and not be able to get the nut off. I made the correct call for the situation, you would have if you had been there also.
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OK, sorry. I won't do it again. ;)
 
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