trying to remove rear drum

todd3131

todd3131

Well-known member
I am trying to remove a rear drum it is on a car that is an older restoration with no miles or rust. I have a hub puller and it will not budge the brakes are not holding it up it just won't pop of the shaft. I tried to heat it up and pull it but will not move. Has anyone had this problem and have any suggestions? I have removed 60 year old rusted drums and never had this much problem.
Help
Todd 3131
 
What kind of hub puller, they are not all equal? Maybe a picture of the puller or description if you can't find a name on it?

Charlie Stephens
 
Todd
Do you have the 2 piece clamshell type puller? I find this to be the best design. Stay AWAY from hub knockers. On mine it got to a point that I was scared i had tightened it down so much, then all of a sudden BANG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It came loose. Almost sounded like a gun shot:) scared the crap out of me! Also make sure to back off your brakes 3 or 4 clicks. I always write this down so I can just put them back to their original position.
Good luck!! It will come just be careful
 
Charlie Stephens said:
What kind of hub puller, they are not all equal? Maybe a picture of the puller or description if you can't find a name on it?

Charlie Stephens
Click to expand...

Tiny said:
Todd
Do you have the 2 piece clamshell type puller? I find this to be the best design. Stay AWAY from hub knockers. On mine it got to a point that I was scared i had tightened it down so much, then all of a sudden BANG!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It came loose. Almost sounded like a gun shot:) scared the crap out of me! Also make sure to back off your brakes 3 or 4 clicks. I always write this down so I can just put them back to their original position.
Good luck!! It will come just be careful
Click to expand...


I have two puller one that bolts to three studs and has a bolt in the center I also have the two piece clam shell puller I tried the hamme, I backed the brakes all the way off so the shoes are clear and the drum even turns.
 
Toss that one that bolts to the drum, they are good for early 60's Chrysler's but the clamshell is the best for the A. It takes an unbelievable amount of Armstrong power. I believe the first time I had to use a 1/2" drive breaker bar and a "cheater"
 
Hi Todd,

Just think of "Why" are "impact" wrenches popular today among mechanics for quick removal of difficult non-lubricated wheel lugs, as opposed to using a 12 foot long pry bar with a 350 pound gorilla on the other end.

In lieu of one big hit with a 5 ton maul, it is much better using a much smaller hammer hitting with multiple positive taps.

Even a wood pecker knows he can cut through a huge, hard oak tree with his impact type beak as opposed to flying into the tree "once" at 150 mph with his beak extended.

This same method works on difficult bolts & nuts by tapping any wrench with a small hammer -- just takes a little practice to emulate an impact wrench.

If you have a "good" hub puller, first tighten, then tap ....... even if no movement the first time ........ tighten again & tap a little harder.

Something will give with this positive impact motion which is started lightly & gradually increased as the bolt is tightened.

Sincerely hope this helps, & hope after removal, you'll soon be laughing like Woody the Woodpecker.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
Hi Todd,

Just think of "Why" are "impact" wrenches popular today among mechanics for quick removal of difficult non-lubricated wheel lugs, as opposed to using a 12 foot long pry bar with a 350 pound gorilla on the other end.

In lieu of one big hit with a 5 ton maul, it is much better using a much smaller hammer hitting with multiple positive taps.

Even a wood pecker knows he can cut through a huge, hard oak tree with his impact type beak as opposed to flying into the tree "once" at 150 mph with his beak extended.

This same method works on difficult bolts & nuts by tapping any wrench with a small hammer -- just takes a little practice to emulate an impact wrench.

If you have a "good" hub puller, first tighten, then tap ....... even if no movement the first time ........ tighten again & tap a little harder.

Something will give with this positive impact motion which is started lightly & gradually increased as the bolt is tightened.

Sincerely hope this helps, & hope after removal, you'll soon be laughing like Woody the Woodpecker.
Click to expand...


I tried to tap it to begin with but it wont budge a bit.
 
Hi Todd,

If totally discouraged & depressed ...... change to mind over matter .... try wearing a white coat ................... think of yourself as a Dentist, & try again ................... anything can be "extracted" with proper tools.
 
H. L. Chauvin said:
Hi Todd,

If totally discouraged & depressed ...... change to mind over matter .... try wearing a white coat ................... think of yourself as a Dentist, & try again ................... anything can be "extracted" with proper tools.
Click to expand...

That is funny I am literally wearing that white coat as I type.
I called it a night last night saying I will try again.
 
If the car is a runner, back off the axle nut a few turns replace the split pin and drive round the block a couple of times. Re-apply puller. Have (so far) managed to loosen the most stubborn by this method.
 
johnbuckley said:
If the car is a runner, back off the axle nut a few turns replace the split pin and drive round the block a couple of times. Re-apply puller. Have (so far) managed to loosen the most stubborn by this method.
Click to expand...


That is one I hadn't thought of I will tryi that.
 
this set up has never failed me
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    54.5 KB · Views: 55
johnbuckley said:
If the car is a runner, back off the axle nut a few turns replace the split pin and drive round the block a couple of times. Re-apply puller. Have (so far) managed to loosen the most stubborn by this method.
Click to expand...

This is a good suggestion - in addition if you are removing the left drum, make several left turns and get on and off the gas at the same time you are turning so as to shock the tapered shaft in the drum. That's what I did as a kid when I had no tools.
Two weeks ago I had the same problem. With both wheels off the car, I set tension on the wheel puller, nut off, step on brakes hard, put it in REVERSE. With the hand throttle and foot on brakes let the clutch out slowly until it pops.
Al
 
Hi Todd,

Just having the intestinal fortitude to first ask a question on this Forum indicates you are not somebody to give up easily -- hang in there.

When you loosen the rear wheel axle nut & go for a spin, please do not take your wife for a ride & let her know what you are trying.

Women always think we are crazy -- only men try such things like this & they usually always work! LOL
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top