Tachometer

I like the tiny tach. Small , only uses 1 ground wire and the red wire wraps around the coil wire 4 wraps. cost about $ 40.00. Had mine since around 2003.
 
Tiny Tachs are great, I use them on Ultralight Aircraft, but to me, they really look out of place on an A. I think Jim is thinking Analog? I'd like to find an Analog one reasonable as well.
 
I've had a "Westach" on my 30 Tudor for about 7 or 8 years and I am well satisfied with it. Comes in the 2" size with a black bullit type column mount and dial is 0-3500 RPM and has very steady needle. Also a nice surprise was when I switched over to a 12V system the tach worked on either voltage, only needed a new light bulb. The site is Westach.com and it was around $100. back then.
 
This is a BuzzTach. Originally made by Buzz Pound. I think it might have been based on a Westach insides.
 

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QGolden said:
Your link does not work, for me. http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-2697-Z-Series-Tachometer/dp/B00062YWB0?tag=atomicindus08-20

That one will.

$124.00, I wonder why they cost so much. The same model in 0-6k is only $50.
Click to expand...
I copied that link from a previous post. Amazon must have changed it, but it's fixed now.

As to why the "high" price, I can only speculate that the higher RPM models are more popular and therefore they make more of them. Just my guess.:confused: I was actually looking for an even lower range, but settled for this one. It has worked great for the last 2 years. (~2,500 miles)
 
I know I am being anal about this but it has bugged me for years.
The face plate on a tac should read RPM/1000 not X1000 . The number you read 3, 4, 5 etc is the actual RPM divided by 1000 not x 1000.
There I feel better.
Lee
 
Minn-Tex Lee said:
I know I am being anal about this but it has bugged me for years.
The face plate on a tac should read RPM/1000 not X1000 . The number you read 3, 4, 5 etc is the actual RPM divided by 1000 not x 1000.
There I feel better.
Lee
Click to expand...

There is a proper way to letter meter faces. It has been done that way since they were invented therefore that is right. There is no other way to do it right. If you want to change all that, there are probably billions of meter faces to reletter. Good luck....LOL
 
an A running at 4K is not long for this world

You want a low reading tach since you have a low revving engine.
Yes the low readers are more costly because they are less common, usually for diesel engines.

I looked all over the place for a low reader that was not a million dollars. Best I could do was
get a 4000 reader from Summit Racing , PN VDO-333-969 for 84.00 about 4 months ago. Very good quality guage. It has a calibration feature but when I checked it against my timing lite it was dead on, and I did not have to adjust it. If you don't have a tach-reading timing lite to cross-check it, I would leave it alone. There are settings for how many cyls. you have, be sure to set that.

If you get an 8K reading tach then the number you really want, namely 2K and thereabouts, will not read very accurately at all. All guages are most accurate when you are reading in the middle third of the face.

There is never any sense in running an A motor past 2200 rpm. The torque peaks at only 1200 rpm and the HP peaks at 2000-2200. After 2200, you fall off the torque and HP curves so fast you are accomplishing nothing except destroying an otherwise good engine. If you doubt this, google the torque curve and look at it for yourself.
These are long stroke motors of yesteryear, very different from today's motors which have no low-end torque at all.
 
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