Use oil additives or not?
- Thread starter redbelly52
- Start date
Purdy Swoft
Well-known member
I've used Marvel mystery oil in the fuel and the crankcase. When I used 40# non detergent, back in the mid 90s, I added marvel and besides reducing friction it has a detergent effect. There is a product called Restore sold at WalMart. Its good for worn engines and it makes a noticable difference. I now use WalMart 20w50 in all of ours.
jr-41ford
Senior Member
I will be omitting the MMO when I do the next oil change. Once I get the big jug of 30 wt conventional oil used up, will be switching to Mobil 1 synthetic, like my other 4 vehicles.
redbelly52
Junior Member
Thanks to all for your input. Its good for a novice like me to get the opinions from folks with experience with Model-A's.
Someone in this thread noted that the PTFE in Slick-50 will coat the inside of an engine. I have seen it on one of my engines during a teardown. Slick-50 is definitely not for use on a newly rebuilt engine. And I have also noted that on both the Toyotas that I have purchased new, (1993 and 1999), both of them began using oil through the valve guides at around 160K. I used the Slick-50 on both, starting at around 50K miles. (Was the S-50 responsible? Who knows.)
I have used it in my 1952 8N tractor for years, and with a 6 volt system, it does make the engine turn over faster at starts. The only negative issue I have noted is that the spark plugs foul a little quicker. A 10 minute cleaning fixes that.
I guess its like so many other things in life, a trade-off.
Someone in this thread noted that the PTFE in Slick-50 will coat the inside of an engine. I have seen it on one of my engines during a teardown. Slick-50 is definitely not for use on a newly rebuilt engine. And I have also noted that on both the Toyotas that I have purchased new, (1993 and 1999), both of them began using oil through the valve guides at around 160K. I used the Slick-50 on both, starting at around 50K miles. (Was the S-50 responsible? Who knows.)
I have used it in my 1952 8N tractor for years, and with a 6 volt system, it does make the engine turn over faster at starts. The only negative issue I have noted is that the spark plugs foul a little quicker. A 10 minute cleaning fixes that.
I guess its like so many other things in life, a trade-off.
Karl
Well-known member
Well I've used additives and I believed that the car ran better -However lets look at it rationally- There is huge money to be made if an oil company finds an additive that does only half of what we think they do. So if the additives are so good why aren't they added to our oils already by the oil company -Perhaps they are (but I doubt it) in any case if they are then that means we don't need to add extra. I think my belief that additives work is purely psychological ! If you look at the make up of additives they often contain a lot of very low weight oil (5W or less) which will make things run a bit freer but only for about 10 minutes!
Karl
Karl
BILL WILLIAMSON
Well-known member
Adding KRAP to quality detergent oil is about as DANGEROUS as adding KRAP to a BOX CAKE MIX!!!
"DON'T MESS WITH SUCCESS" Uncle Jemimah
"DON'T MESS WITH SUCCESS" Uncle Jemimah
QGolden
Well-known member
I always sort of thought that too. If a great new additive were invented that actually contributed to engine life, the oil companies would be all over it. As it is the products that they do use are very specific and intended for particular applications. No oil company that I have heard of puts PTFE in their product. I sell gearboxes into the Industral market. Heavy duty, tough, high shock, applications. There is no Teflon in our recommended lubricants.
Furthermore in many applications, the oil is not only the lubricant but also a crucial participant in displacing heat form the hottest parts of the application to the areas where water or air convection can remove the heat. Unauthorized additives can interfere with the oil's ability to perform that job.
TerryNJ
Well-known member
Hey! We're all running something different in our babies! From HD 30 Straight wgt oil Non Detergent to 10w30 HD, From Walmarts bargain oil (Mobil?) to Rotella to Mobil one synthethic to 20-50 WOW that Must be hard starting in cold weather. I had a 4cyl Ford Fairmount once that wouldn't spin fast enough to start at +10 degF. Had to drain it all out and put 10 w 40 to get it to start. So anyway, Is there an oil that a mod A WON"T run on. I don't think so! I always had trouble wrapping my mind around PTFE in an engine. I just couldn't see it lasting under cylinder heats. My thoughts were confirmed by a guy over in "Yesterday's tractors", who was a "Tric_______ ologist". This was a Dr. of friction. Studying friction was what he did for a living and his analysis of Teflon in an engine was that it was a joke. But, back to oils, The wide range of oils show just how forgiving these engines really are. It doesn't matter which oils you use, it will be all right. Just change it regularily.
Terry
Terry
tbirdtbird
BANNED
Terry, have u tried adding cinnamon?
at the very least your oil would taste better when it drips in your face at an oil change!
at the very least your oil would taste better when it drips in your face at an oil change!
BlueSunoco
Well-known member
...and using synthetic, and changing every 500 miles, would be kinda pricey!!
http://ferrarichat.com/forum/faq.php?faq=haas_articles I believe this has been posted before! It's long but very interesting!! Pete
Allanw
Senior Member
No need to change synthetic every 500 miles (or other modern oils) every 500 miles.
The 500 mile interval would have come about because there were only crappy oils available at the time the cars were made: single viscosity non-detergent. There have been VAST improvements since then!
The world is no longer flat
Pete
BANNED
Consider this. Years ago many of the additive companies claimed a certain percentage increase in horsepower by using their additive. This claim is not so prevalent in advertising any more but IF IT WERE. You could add several different additives and come up with a 200 hp model A engine with no mechanical modifications. Neat stuff!!
QGolden
Well-known member
No need to change synthetic every 500 miles (or other modern oils) every 500 miles.
The 500 mile interval would have come about because there were only crappy oils available at the time the cars were made: single viscosity non-detergent. There have been VAST improvements since then!
The world is no longer flat
And the roads were gravel and the cars without air filters.
brokenspoke
Senior Member
X2
Non detergent oil lets particles settle to bottom of pan....detergent oil keeps the particles in suspension, on a engine with a filter its not a problem....so on my model a i only use non detergent oil
tbirdtbird
BANNED
So, how do you get the particles out of the valve chamber? And the dipper trays?
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tbirdtbird
BANNED
These oil discussions are a waste of bandwidth. There is no evidence to suggest that anyone has ever changed their ways because of these ad nauseum oil threads. Each person is convinced that their way is the best and only way to do things. Myth trumps scientific advancement every time. Like trying to convert a Baptist to a Catholic.
I do like reading about all the different ways we treat our toys, all I know is when I change my oil hot it flow like water!!! So when I start my engine cold I want my oil thin and flow like water(if its good when it hot its good when it cold!! Pete
