Timing gear

Here's what I did last week with a cam nut that came loose.

Drilled two holes in the cam nut, half way between the IS and OS diameter of the nut. Tapped these holes with a 1/4 in. coarse thread tap. Made a small plate out of 1/4 in steel with corresponding holes for two 1/4 in bolts. Welded an old lug nut (13/16) to the center of the plate to get a torque wrench on. Screwed the two together ( loosely as the cam sticks out past the end of the gear when fully seated) Added "blue" locktite and torqued to 110 ft lbs. So far so good.
 
B_man_Al said:
Here's what I did last week with a cam nut that came loose.

Drilled two holes in the cam nut, half way between the IS and OS diameter of the nut. Tapped these holes with a 1/4 in. coarse thread tap. Made a small plate out of 1/4 in steel with corresponding holes for two 1/4 in bolts. Welded an old lug nut (13/16) to the center of the plate to get a torque wrench on. Screwed the two together ( loosely as the cam sticks out past the end of the gear when fully seated) Added "blue" locktite and torqued to 110 ft lbs. So far so good.
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Clever idea! I love seeing someone clear their mind of old ideas and come up with Plan "B".
Rainmaker Ron
 
Dan McEachern co.--920 pearl street--Alemeda CA. 64501
phone 510-532-8228

Dan makes the best timing gears in standard, oversize and undersize. Dan makes bronze, aluminum and fiber timing gears. I have also bought bronze gears from Snyders but I see that they are no longer listed in Snyders new catalog. Bronze gears are said to be the quietest. I haven't noticed any noise with aluminum or bronze. The most important thing to me is that metal gears are forever and I don't ever have to worry about having to replace them again.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
Dan McEachern co.--920 pearl street--Alemeda CA. 64501
phone 510-532-8228

Dan makes the best timing gears in standard, oversize and undersize. Dan makes bronze, aluminum and fiber timing gears. I have also bought bronze gears from Snyders but I see that they are no longer listed in Snyders new catalog. Bronze gears are said to be the quietest. I haven't noticed any noise with aluminum or bronze. The most important thing to me is that metal gears are forever and I don't ever have to worry about having to replace them again.
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Got mine from Dan also.
 
scarabsport said:
How do I hold the cam from turning when take the cam nut off?
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Easiest way is to place a cloth rag between the timing gear and the crankshaft gear where they mesh. This will "lock up" the gears and prevent them from turning yet will not damage the gears. If you are only removing the cam nut and it is out of the engine block, then clamping the cam to keep it from rotating is necessary. Also using an impact is handy.

BTW, welcome to Fordbarn with your first post above.
 
scarabsport said:
It was a fiber gear and only center is left on the cam.
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I would never use a fiber cam gear with an aluminum center. The fact that they come loose between the 2 parts is one of the first things I learned from the guys in the Model A club.

Now you have no easy way to hold the cam from spinning. I'd remove the radiator and use a 1/2" impact gun with the correct socket.:)
 
So if my timing gear has no chisel marks and has "ford a" painted on it it's either been replaced correctly or original?
 
Oldnuts said:
So if my timing gear has no chisel marks and has "ford a" painted on it it's either been replaced correctly or original?
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It easily could have been replaced, but someone was smart enough to use the correct tool and leave no marks. I think it's well worth it to buy the correct tool and buy the one piece gear. Like Purdy said, if you want one that should last forever, buy the aluminum or bronze. I run a fiber gear, but may try the aluminum on one of my rebuilds.:)
 
Al 29Tudor said:
If the engine is in the car just put it in gear with the brake on. No need to remove the radiator.
Al
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But only the center aluminum part is left, so there is no gear to mesh and lock the cam in place.:mad: With the cam in the engine, the only thing I can think of is to try the impact wrench.
 
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