Overflow tank

Tiny

Tiny

Well-known member
Who runs an overflow tank? Will they work on a non pressurized system like our cars have? What did you use? Where/how did you mount it? I ask because my car pushes a fair amount of coolant out and the triple digits are on the way soon. I do not want to bend the overflow tube for fear of breakage and the nail trick will not work because somewhere along the line someone pinched the tube at the top making it impossible to put the nail in. I was thinking a plastic soda bottle wire tied to the backside of the axle. Anyone have a better idea?
As always Thanks
 
It sounds like your tubes may be blocked, as mine were last year. Rather than add an overflow tank, it would be better to make the radiator flow as it was designed to. Running 2 1/2 gallons of pure white vinegar for 30 days cleaned out my cooling system, so I no longer have coolant flowing out the overflow pipe. The top tank of the radiator is the expansion tank, and that's why the coolant only needs to be just above the tops of the tubes.

If you still choose to add an overflow tank, just run a rubber hose from the outlet of the overflow pipe to the bottom of any container. You can hang the container anywhere you please. The radiator cap must be sealed, or the vacuum from cooling won't pull the coolant back into the radiator.

The cheapest, easiest fix is the correct fix, which was cleaning with vinegar for me. 3 gallons of pure white vinegar only cost about $7.
 
get a really long hose and attach it to the end of the overflow and route it back up under the hood and into your container. That way it won't be so obvious your running the overflow.
 
Tom
I did the vinegar trick. I only did it for a bit over a week but drove the car about 10 miles or more each day topping of with more vinegar. Lol my garage smelled like the Easter bunnies head quarters. Your right it is cheap. Even cheaper here at $1.75 a gallon. I back flushed it in the car and was there a lot of rust. I flushed till the water was clean. It still pushes out the water though.
JK
Where are you thinking of mounting it? I was thinking the backside of the axle so it is visable for me to watch. I could care less what others think.
 
The Model A cooling system is a non-pressurized system. In order for a recovery tank to work, you need to convert it. You would do better to fix the problem and not cover it with a bandaid.

Also, if you are filling your radiator to the top, it will overflow until it reaches the proper level. Also, make sure the baffle is still in the top of the radiator or you will get overflow as well.
 
Yes the baffle is in there. I don't feel like I'm trying to band aide it. I'm actively try to solve the problem. The car doesn't overheat. I'm just worried come the 115+ temps we get here in the summer will be an issue

The top of the fins should be covered with water but how do you see through the baffle to be able to determine the level? When I fill it I just barely cover the baffle after say a 10 to 20 mile drive it takes about 3 to 4 cups of water to return it to this level. Am I just overfilling it?
 
I'm also going to add a thermostat and temp gauge this weekend so I'll know what's going on more scientifically
 
Tiny said:
I'm also going to add a thermostat and temp gauge this weekend so I'll know what's going on more scientifically
Click to expand...

Good move, Tiny.
As others have said, the overflow tank is not needed. I installed them on two of my A's but removed them because, while they operated properly, they did not solve the problem. Both engines had new heads, water pumps, 4 row radiators and blocks clean. Water pumps were pumping water at a faster rate than the radiators could flow. Removing stock from the pump vanes solved the problem Yes, Texas has some 3 digit temps too.
 
I would mount the tank in the bottom drivers side corner of the radiator. As soon as you pop the hood there it is. On the back side of the axle you would still have to get on your hands and knees to see it properly. Just as easy to pop the hood, plus less strain on your knees.
 
28ACoupe said:
The Model A cooling system is a non-pressurized system. In order for a recovery tank to work, you need to convert it. . .
Click to expand...

Not true. They work fine with a non-pressurized system and no special cap. You only need to have an air-tight seal on the radiator cap and run the existing overflow tube into the bottom of a container, below the reserve fluid level.

The system on my 160B works fine, I never have to add, nor never lose coolant. Of course, it is not a fix for other cooling problems or exhaust gas leaking into the cooling system. I have a 2" diameter x 15" tank and the level goes up/down about 2" between hot and cold. I need to paint it black.
6f875677-dced-4de6-adb6-ee76992362d3.jpg
 
I had to remove my radiator, lay it flat, fill it with water, then dump it upside down about 4 times to remove all the rust flakes that were blocking the radiator tubes. I did this as the final cleaning step after running vinegar for 4 weeks. One week is not enough time. After 4 weeks I removed the water pump and shined a light back into the head. It looked very clean.

I would do this, because adding a tank won't stop the overflow due to blockage.
 
Mike is that a speedway one? Did the holes line up with the rad shell mount holes. I've used those on other cars but not an A
 
Tiny said:
Mike is that a speedway one? Did the holes line up with the rad shell mount holes. I've used those on other cars but not an A
Click to expand...

I did not like the screw-on cap of the speedway tank. (or their price!) Here's what it looks like: LINK Holes line up? Ha Ha Ha Ha. Keep dreaming. A real P.I.A. to re-design a suitable mounting system. Think chinese puzzle.
 
I have the cheap plastic "box" style mounted to the firewall. Higher than the bottom end of the overflow outlet on the radiator. Tube runs from the radiator to the bottom of the overflow tank.

Has an overflow tube out of the top that drops down below the splash pans. I keep the tank about half full.

Previous owner used the car as his tourer, and had an old bleach bottle hanging from the radiator support rods--looked like a Farmer Fix!
 
I've described my successful, SIMPLE, system in great detail, several times & NOBODY responded, either YAY or NAY! I'm too TIRED to type it AGAIN!! Bill W.
 
Last edited:
Sorry Bill
I searched and didn't find your input. I'm sure your fix is a good one. Please share the wealth.
 
Tiny said:
Sorry Bill
I searched and didn't find your input. I'm sure your fix is a good one. Please share the wealth.
Click to expand...
Dog:cool: here,
Sorry, Tiny, Bill's gone to bed, he's kinda' KRANKY today, lots of stuff goin' on. A friend has serious problems. Buster T.:cool:
 
Tom,

In your reply no. 2, in your opinion, after witnessing what was removed with vinegar from your particular radiator, do you think your partial radiator blockage was caused by:

a) Mostly rust & less by water pump grease; or;
b) Mostly water pump grease & less by rust; or,
c) Close to 50/50 rust & grease?
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top