1928 truck engine seized

C

craigreavley

Member
been test driving the 1928 truck on short trips around the block. Pulled into barn with truck idling, went to get a scew driver and truck acted as if it ran out of gas. Went to start nothing, went to turn engine over by hand and it acts stuck. went to pull starter off to try to turn flywheel and starter will not budge. tried rocking truck in 3rd gear and it wont budge. tried to crank engine over by hand and pin in crank broke and I think i broke my jaw as it smashed into the radiator The starter acts like it is locked into the truck. I had it off one other time with no problem What else can i do
 
i dont understand how the starter got jammed with engine idling, maybe the bendix spring broke and let the bendix come forward and jamb in the flywheel, you are going to have to remove the starter in pieces, remove the bolts holding it to the engine and pull off the outer housing and then see if you can work the armature out, and craig, why dont you update your profile, at least add the city and state your in, might be some one close that can give you a hand, hope your jaw isnt broke, that would be like adding an insult to an injury
 
After it died I hit the starter to try to restart it. It didnt make a sound. It acts like the starter is jammed or something.,I took the 3 starter bolts out and I cant even budge the starter.So i am hoping this has something to do with the problem. With the starter unbolted i thought rocking the truck in gear would help, but so far it hasnt. i am in Peoria illinois and have met a couple of guys that may be able to help. I just hate asking. I am just praying that I didnt seize the engine for some weird reason. I am at work today and can barely move my mouth What a learning experience this has been..
 
Just rocking the truck won't work every time. You have to get the motor to turn backwards so, rock it harder till you see the fan turn counterclockwise.
 
the starter will come apart on the engine, just remove the bolts holding it on, then work the starter case off the armature leaving it and the bendix where it is then try to work the armature and bendix loose from the flywheel, if that is the problem, and dont ever be embaressed about asking for help, that what these guys are here for, that way you may learn sometning that you can help some one else with later, there is nothing like knowledge, except experience, book learning is great, but i will take experience every time
 
Turns out the starter was jammed somehow. We finally got the starter off and the engine is fine. Tested the starter and it is also fine. Put starter back on truck and away it went like before. what an answer to prayers. Not quite sure what the starter issue is.
 
Had a similar problem with the starter on our 28, so I put a different starter on the car. No more problems so far.
 
Since you have a 1928, it might still have the original multiplate flywheel. If so you have to use the original Abell drive, or the service drive. The later 5/8" drive, or the 1/2" service drive with the wrong bolt, can bind on the flywheel.
 
Tom Wesenberg said:
Since you have a 1928, it might still have the original multiplate flywheel. If so you have to use the original Abell drive, or the service drive. The later 5/8" drive, or the 1/2" service drive with the wrong bolt, can bind on the flywheel.
Click to expand...

The amount of information on FordBarn never ceases to amaze me...
 
Besides the other good info, you could have a bent armature shaft. Forgetting to retard the spark when cranking will cause starter kickback that bends the armature shaft. To test, remove the starter and set it up in a vise. remove the bendix and motor the starter, either with a battery charger or helper battery and jump cables. While the starter is spinning, observe the armature shaft. if the shaft appears a blur, the shaft is bent and it will sooner than later lock up again. I've had this problem a few times. My daughter, Jennifer bent a few starter armature shafts when she was learning to drive the model A's when she was a kid. When I gave her the 31 coupe, I installed a Mallory distributor with centrifugal advance and solved the problem.
 
Last edited:
Another trick on removing the Starter when everything is stuck. Put a pipe wrench on the starter housing and turn the starter,sometimes this will unstick the bendix.
It worked for me 1 time.
 
Do not lubricate the bendix shaft with 30w oil. Use the lightest oil you can find. 3 in 1 might be too heavy! WD 40 works well and dries to a silicone dust. Or you can try graphite or silicone dry spray.

Even the light oils will collect dust from the flywheel housing and eventually hang up.

Joe K
 
Joe K said:
Do not lubricate the bendix shaft with 30w oil. Use the lightest oil you can find. 3 in 1 might be too heavy! WD 40 works well and dries to a silicone dust. Or you can try graphite or silicone dry spray.

Even the light oils will collect dust from the flywheel housing and eventually hang up.

Joe K
Click to expand...

I agree, Oil on the helix of the bendix is a very bad idea. Clutch dust on the oil, or even the oil itself will cause the starter to spin but not engage with the flywheel ring gear. I wash the helix with lacquer thinner before installing the starter.
 
On starters that sometimes have engagement or lock up problems, I've had good results by brushing all the flywheel teeth with a mixture of WHITE LEAD, (if you can still buy it??) & WHEEL BEARING grease. Bill W.
 
With your multiplate flywheel, this is what the SERVICE DRIVE should look like.

Many people don't know about the special drive and will fit it with a common spring and bolt with a locking tab washer. That's what jams and locks up your starter.

Notice the special headless bolt and how the spring is notched a little in the loop near the pinion gear. This is something you can do yourself, if you can't find the correct parts. Cut the head off the bolt and cut a screwdriver slot into the end. Then drill a small hole for the locking wire ring that keeps it from turning out. You can grind a small notch in the spring loop. You have to look close to see the fine lock wire in the groove. The wire runs through the small hole in the headless screw.
 

Attachments

  • Starter Service Drive.jpg
    Starter Service Drive.jpg
    65 KB · Views: 82
This is not what my drive looks like. the bolt that you cut the head off is the same as the other bolt, and it is obvious that it has been impacting something possibly on the back side of the flywheel.
 
This must be a picture of the drive like your's. Maybe you can still gring the head off the spring bolt and cut a screwdriver slot in it. Locktite should work to keep the bolt from coming out, or maybe you can find a way to cut a groove for the locking wire to go through a small hole in the bolt, as in the correct 1/2" drive I pictured above.

It's important that the bolt on the forward end (by the pinion) does not touch the shaft. Sometimes people install the wrong bolt and it tightens against the shaft. This not only scores the shaft, but doesn't allow the spring to work as it should.
 

Attachments

  • Starter Drive Single Plate.jpg
    Starter Drive Single Plate.jpg
    44.6 KB · Views: 34
After clearing a starter jam on a 28 AR, I noticed a bevel on the front of the ring gear. I forgot to check the backside. Is the flywheel beveled on both sides. Been a long time since I put on a ring gear.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top