Relibility question. New guy.

Flathead man2

Flathead man2

Senior Member
I'm planning to start a future project, I already have the specs for what I want. I'm takin my time and really thinking over ever little tiny detail so I dont miss. My goal is a vintage hot rod late 40's. But my main question is everyone I talked to said you can't jump in a flathead car and run all day and not overheat or have weak ignition. I say you can if you do it right, it's been my childhood dream to have a 32 roadster flathead car. I wanna be able to just on those good days jump in and run all day long. :) :D I'm not getting no chevy like my boss said.

1. frame and body + suspinsion.
2. 5 speed, 9 inch rear end.
3. vintage style tires.
4. Bench seat with plad cover.
5. rac&pinoion steering.
6. disc brakes.
7. (vintage style and reliable driver).
8. flat paint job green.
9. Hot rod authentic Flathead.
10. 12 volt conversion, electronic ignition.
 
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Sounds like you have a good idea of what you want.
My advice.....build the car you want and drive it.

A flathead is a reliable motor and like any other motor, you work out the bugs if and when they pop up.
 
Before you spend any money on an engine or on engine modifications, you need some referrence material (if you don't already have it). Purchacing two books will make your money go further and get you closer to what you want. The first book is "Nostalgia" by Ron Halloran and the second is "Flathead Facts" by John W. Lawson. It's a lot cheaper and far less dis-appointing to do your research via book than via trial and error.
 
Henry/Kokomo said:
Before you spend any money on an engine or on engine modifications, you need some referrence material (if you don't already have it). Purchacing two books will make your money go further and get you closer to what you want. The first book is "Nostalgia" by Ron Halloran and the second is "Flathead Facts" by John W. Lawson. It's a lot cheaper and far less dis-appointing to do your research via book than via trial and error.
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:) Where do you think I might be goofing up a bit and how would these help me? :)
 
Henry/Kokomo said:
Before you spend any money on an engine or on engine modifications, you need some referrence material (if you don't already have it). Purchacing two books will make your money go further and get you closer to what you want. The first book is "Nostalgia" by Ron Halloran and the second is "Flathead Facts" by John W. Lawson. It's a lot cheaper and far less dis-appointing to do your research via book than via trial and error.
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Very sound advice.
 
Bassman/NZ said:
Very sound advice.
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:) I mean for the budget where would each step take me is what I'm asking, I'm not looking for suttle mods like port/polish, I'm gonna use the speedway block, no supercharger just carbs, to get as much power possible but still be very reliable.
 
Im lookin for a nudge in the right direction, one member said to invest in two books, I'm not doin much just a cam and port and polish, I'm lookin for somewhere between 110 and 150 horse. Or is there a point my boss was tryin to show me by modern engines like SBF?
 
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I agree, read the books Henry suggested. There is a lot of info on what is productive and what is not so for a FH on the street. This can save you money and time. I'd personally go 12V, but many here use 6 volt electrical system successfully.
 
joel said:
I agree, read the books Henry suggested. There is a lot of info on what is productive and what is not so for a FH on the street. This can save you money and time. I'd personally go 12V, but many here use 6 volt electrical system successfully.
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Thats what im gonna do is 12 volt. :)
 
there was a man that used to post on the orignal ford barn he would drive his flathead roadster from co to fl with no proulbem his handle was rumble seat
 
I got my 1st flathead 50 years ago. I have many miles on them. I wouldn't hesitate to drive cross country in a flatty. It you use an OD ******, you might consider the Merc '49-53, with the 4" stroke. It will have more lower RPM torque for cruising in 5th gear. The Merc will get you to your 110 -150 HP very easily. The stock '52 and '53 have 125 HP. With two carbs headers, and a mild cam, you'll get your 150 HP. I like the 9" rear end, it will take more HP than what you're shooting for. I personally like the Dana 44.
 
Re: Post #6 - I'm not suggesting you're goofing up anywhere. I am suggesting that getting more, detailed and specific information about your engine and engine mods BEFORE you spend the money would be an advantage. Example : You decide you're going to equip the engine with a 2 deuce intake. Which one? Why that one and not a different brand? What kind of ignition and why? Exhaust system? Etc. etc. If nothing else, it'll be more knowledge for you and you can NEVER have too much of that!
Enjoy your build. It sounds like fun.
 
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