Relibility question. New guy.

Binx :), I understand why they dummi the two outside carbs, its trouble and time comsuming to try to get all three to work together. The thread is offy 3X2 advice, I think, for me I think what I'm gonna do is take it slow and get the books so I know a little more along with the info on here, back to the carbs, progressive linkage would be the only way. I think that'd probbly be the way to go. Just dumi the outside carbs and run off the center one. ( I got a lead on two engines both are form f-6 and 7 trucks. A little rusty but all there.

Hey JD; Make sure the f-6 and 7 are the flathead we-er talking about and not the heavy duty slow cranking used in some big trucks 330 inch and 1.000 of pounds way to heavy.....iron :o... if they are the real "flathead" I'ed get both,:rolleyes: and setup a test stand, out back see what it takes to get one running, rust and all.. consider it a learning station, and just how much "FUN":eek: those 2x3s are to tune , and if the four barrel was anywhere close to OLD SCHOOL I and most of the barn would be running fourbarrels ...
Now lets talk side of the road and broke down, can you fix the, I'am going to say it "that odd dist" pertronix ignition?? or do you have a spaire in the box of stuff you always carry with you, most of us carry a box of "stuff" with one each of everything...more to come.......:cool:OLD.....BILL:cool:
 
How would ya tell em apart, the only reason I said electronic ignition is because all the ones I seen have had an ignition problem. But a fella told me, if I convert to 12v witch is what I'm gonna do I wont have the problems. Another question I have what benefits does a stud engine earlier years have over the bolt ones? I want one with studs so the gaskets will stay put. If these engines dont pan out I'm tryin to plan my next move.
 
Studs and bolts work equally well. Gaskets aren't going anywhere. Fella's will tell you a lot of things. That being said, a stock ignition, 6 or 12 volt, in proper working order is hard to beat. With something like Pertronix, when it quits, it does so with no warning.
 
Im lookin at pics of dual carbs and thinking how can I hook them up to make it look as if they are wroking and have fuel lines going to them but they are just dummies. You hit the gas pedel but the outer carb linkage moves but they dont take ant fuel. The oldest engine I worked on was my Willys jeep engine L-Head not the Flathead.

Make a flat plate,use a carb. base gasket as a pattern, find something a your hardware store, :confused:not to thin, as it will see 21 inch of vacuum at times, it goes under the carb with two gaskets to seal, bolt to carb on top... now nothing goes through the second carb.:o (gas or air) and your good to go ....back to your test stand for a test run ....this is where you will find how reliable the 70 year OLD helmet or crab dist. are ( with points to mess with:mad: ) .....OLD.....BILL :cool:
 
Regarding studs-vs-bolts. . . . . the studs will give you greater clamping pressure for the amount of torque applied account of the finer thread. Also, with studs, you can - at least theoretically - remove a head without disturbing the stud in the block and creating a potential water leak. On the other hand, bolts are a lot easier to use and the head gasket surface clean-up is significantly easier without the studs in the way.

A minor point - the jeep engine you mentioned a few posts back was "an L head engine but not a flathead". True it was an L-Head . . . but so are our Ford V8's and Lincoln V12's. An L-Head engine has the valves in the block and both valves are on the same side of the cylinder whereas a T-Head engine has both valves in the block with one valve on each side of the cylinder. The tern "flathead" in general, refers to an engine with the valves in the block as opposed to having valves in the head. Our Ford's are flathead V8s and jeeps are inline 4 flatheads. FWIW
 
Make a flat plate,use a carb. base gasket as a pattern, find something a your hardware store, :confused:not to thin, as it will see 21 inch of vacuum at times, it goes under the carb with two gaskets to seal, bolt to carb on top... now nothing goes through the second carb.:o (gas or air) and your good to go ....back to your test stand for a test run ....this is where you will find how reliable the 70 year OLD helmet or crab dist. are ( with points to mess with:mad: ) .....OLD.....BILL :cool:
So just put the gasket under those two carbs and trim to fit, it'll block the throttle plate.
 
JD, I might as well join in. This is a 31 A, 276, Saginaw 4-speed with an O/D, and a 3:70 9" early bronco diff. This thing is dependable as dirt, but it will beat you up on a long trip, no Cadillac.
Here are a few things I would change: go with radial tires, cross steer with a vega box, panhard bars front and rear. Box the frame even with a flattie. This car is 12 volt with a 60's generator, and belt driven fan, chevy dist with pertronix. The only thing that has broken is the starter drive spring in four years.
Since these pictures I have changed the intake to a store bought one, still 2 2bbl. Glad to answer any questions, PM me good luck Chuck S.
 

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It is going to be difficult to get everything right the first time. Trial and error will eventually get you what you want.

My `35 Cabriolet lay has a 21 stud stock 85 horsepower engine with a 3.54 gears and will run 60-65 MPH easily. I have had it faster on the Interstate, but traveling Interstate is not where I want to be. I like the side roads, the back roads and the little towns. Here is an earlier thread from last summer in here in West Virginia.

http://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=82327&highlight=shadetree
 
A bone stock FH V8 will be totally reliable & will not overheat.Back in 1960 I drove a 39 Tudor for 900 miles in 18 hrs with zero problems.About 1/2 the distance was over washboard roads.For todays roads I would install an OD.Ive never had vapor lock years ago,but with the modern crap gas it can be a problem.
 
Flathead man2, I can see from your posts that you're new to this aspect of the hobby. I dont mean that disrespectfully, we all started at the beginning.
My best advice to you is ..... "some fella told me" ..... forget that, the fellows on this forum are collectively the most knowledgeable in the world. Some guy down the road who has only ever had Chevys or some such likely is talking through a hole in his head. Some things you should know....
* There are many ways to do something, and many opinions. Assimilate them all, and go with what seems to you to be the best plan.
* Rack and pinion is not traditional, and does not work well with a beam axle.
* Disc brakes are not traditional to the 40s and 50s, but ARE to the 60s.
* Most projects either fail, or do not look good, because the builder did not stick to a theme. If your theme is 40s it will be a little different to the 50s, but a LOT different to the 60s. Do not mix and match, it will look half-arsed. To this end you need to do a lot of research and decide which theme is for you. My project is a 50s theme, and any bits on it that are not "right" are out of sight.
* Read everything you can, both on here and on the HAMB. Between the two there is everything you will ever need to know.
* Regarding triple manifolds with dummy carbs, there are some narrow-minded folks (mainly me) who regard such practices with some disdain, a bit like the guys who put Olds Rocket rocker covers on a Chevy. They aint fooling anybody who knows a thing or two. Dummy carbs are always cleaner than working carbs and stand out like a .... well, a dummy carb. Go with two carbs or a four barrel. Triple carbs are too much for a stockish engine, but can run OK on a big incher.
* Motor City Flatheads will I'm sure be wonderful engines, but you can get a brand new French block from Sacramento for a fraction of the price. If you want someone to build you a motor and you have some bucks available, give H&H Flatheads a call. Building flatheads is what they do.
* All of the above is purely my opinion based on decades of building and running flatheads. Take it or leave it, your call.
 
JD, my truck with the b-ville box, it was first class.Chuck S.
 

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Flathead man2, I can see from your posts that you're new to this aspect of the hobby. I dont mean that disrespectfully, we all started at the beginning.
My best advice to you is ..... "some fella told me" ..... forget that, the fellows on this forum are collectively the most knowledgeable in the world. Some guy down the road who has only ever had Chevys or some such likely is talking through a hole in his head. Some things you should know....
* There are many ways to do something, and many opinions. Assimilate them all, and go with what seems to you to be the best plan.
* Rack and pinion is not traditional, and does not work well with a beam axle.
* Disc brakes are not traditional to the 40s and 50s, but ARE to the 60s.
* Most projects either fail, or do not look good, because the builder did not stick to a theme. If your theme is 40s it will be a little different to the 50s, but a LOT different to the 60s. Do not mix and match, it will look half-arsed. To this end you need to do a lot of research and decide which theme is for you. My project is a 50s theme, and any bits on it that are not "right" are out of sight.
* Read everything you can, both on here and on the HAMB. Between the two there is everything you will ever need to know.
* Regarding triple manifolds with dummy carbs, there are some narrow-minded folks (mainly me) who regard such practices with some disdain, a bit like the guys who put Olds Rocket rocker covers on a Chevy. They aint fooling anybody who knows a thing or two. Dummy carbs are always cleaner than working carbs and stand out like a .... well, a dummy carb. Go with two carbs or a four barrel. Triple carbs are too much for a stockish engine, but can run OK on a big incher.
* Motor City Flatheads will I'm sure be wonderful engines, but you can get a brand new French block from Sacramento for a fraction of the price. If you want someone to build you a motor and you have some bucks available, give H&H Flatheads a call. Building flatheads is what they do.
* All of the above is purely my opinion based on decades of building and running flatheads. Take it or leave it, your call.
I'm gonna hunt down as much NOS new parts as I can, I understand what your saying.
 
A bone stock FH V8 will be totally reliable & will not overheat.Back in 1960 I drove a 39 Tudor for 900 miles in 18 hrs with zero problems.About 1/2 the distance was over washboard roads.For todays roads I would install an OD.Ive never had vapor lock years ago,but with the modern crap gas it can be a problem.
What fuel line are you running? I'm gonna try to get double walled steel like and flair it and use brass fittings like my jeep has.
 
A bone stock FH V8 will be totally reliable & will not overheat.Back in 1960 I drove a 39 Tudor for 900 miles in 18 hrs with zero problems.About 1/2 the distance was over washboard roads.For todays roads I would install an OD.Ive never had vapor lock years ago,but with the modern crap gas it can be a problem.
What fuel line are you running? I'm gonna try to get double walled steel line and flair it and use brass fittings like my jeep has.
 
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