non- detergent oil

duffer

duffer

Senior Member
Is there a brand name of non-detergent oil that is better than the others, or are they all the same. I'm getting ready to change my oil .
 
The only good one that I know of is Kendall. However, that said, why not consider using a good detergent oil in your car? A number of years ago, in the Vintage Ford magazine, there was a very thoughtful article concerning motor oils used in Model T Fords. The conclusion was that we should use modern 5W-30 or 10W-30 detergent oil. Since then, I only used a good brand of 10W-30 in my Model A. When I owned my Model T, I did the same with great results.
Rog
 
raprice said:
The only good one that I know of is Kendall. However, that said, why not consider using a good detergent oil in your car? A number of years ago, in the Vintage Ford magazine, there was a very thoughtful article concerning motor oils used in Model T Fords. The conclusion was that we should use modern 5W-30 or 10W-30 detergent oil. Since then, I only used a good brand of 10W-30 in my Model A. When I owned my Model T, I did the same with great results.
Rog
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I was told by the guy i bought the car from that the engine has non detergent in it and i should always use non detergent.
 
duffer said:
I was told by the guy i bought the car from that the engine has non detergent in it and i should always use non detergent.
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Just an old wive's tale.:D Or should I say guy's lie!:D

Non detergent oil is only good for 2 cycle mix and air compressors. I have a 1952 Studebaker Land Crusier that had lots of waxy buildup in the valve covers from years of non-detergent oil. I used a popsicle stick to dig out what I could from around the rocker arms. Each month I would check the rockers and they were a bit cleaner each time. The good oil slowly cleaned away the old buildup and it didn't plug up any passages, nor come off in chunks.
 
I'd switch to detergent oil. (Fools rush in where angels fear to tread.)

That probably involves frequent oil changes and Marvel Mystery Oil or Seafoam with each one. 50-75 miles between changes? You'll likely flush out a lot of old sludge loosened up by the detergent, so get that out early.

Of course, if this is the worst suggestion in the world, the experts will explain why.
 
Remember the old saying "believe none of what you hear, and half of what you see"? I heard that BS about sticking with non-detergent oil back when I was a teenager. And it's still BS!

Most people no so little about lubricants, they don't know the difference between viscosity and specific gravity of oil.
 
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If I were switching from non-detergent to detergent oil in a engine I would either have a filtration system on it or change it frequently for the first few hundred miles as newshirt suggests. I would imagine the detergents would loosen up the deposits in the engine. JMHO
 
old wifes tails die hard, detergent oil does not wash off huge chumks of sludge, the oil will get dirtier faster because the sludge is being washed off the inside of the engine, what detergent will do is help open a simi pluged oil screen, stop moistier form forming, acid formation, and foaming, and it has far superior wear protection, as far as im concerned non detergent is only good for garage art
 
It took about 5 oil changes using modern oil to clean the inside of my Tudor's high-mileage motor that had been using non-detergent oil by previous owner. Now, the insides look clean and nice. Oil stays cleaner longer. Car turned 108,000 miles yesterday, runs like a champ!
 
I should have also mentioned, I would pull the valve cover and if it's clean just put it back on and start using the good detergent oil. If it has sludge, then clean it out and drop the oil pan and clean it out also. If you do the oil pan, be sure to pop out the dipper tray to clean the pan bottom. I've had good luck by dropping the oil pan upside down onto the grass to pop out the dipper tray. Sometimes I give it a little push on the way down, but it works surprizingly well.
 
What Flamingo, Tiny and Mitch said. Use any automotive oil and it will work fine! A specific brand/type is is just a personal preference.
 
I agree with Ford3 about the deposits. I don't believe anyone really thinks that there are huge chunks of material waiting to be jarred loose with the addition of a detergent in most maintained engines. More realistically is the "varnish" is dissolved and then suspended in the medium I.E. oil. That's the trouble with tales; the story grows with interpretation and each telling.
The acid resistance of the detergent oil goes a long way to reducing the harmful levels in the engine and hence the Babbitt and other parts can last longer.
 
On a new rebuild,I use non-detergent oil....for about 1000 miles driving at various speeds. I believe that the rings seat faster. I change after 1000mi then use detergent oil... Works for me....
Bruce Davis
 
I also vote for the change. I'm a believer in dropping the pan also. Not only to clean it, but for the increased cooling benefits. A pan without sludge has greater heat dissipation.
 
Ford 3 is absolutely correct. Old wives tales really die hard. Using detergent oil will not suddenly loosen all the crud. It's an extremely slow process.
Rog
 
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