Changeover to electric fuel pump

M

maxparplus

Member
I bought a six volt fuel pump to install on my 1938 Ford Standard Coupe. I want to remove the old mechanical pump, replace the breather and could use any tips on the install and use of the electrical pump.

Thanks,
Max
 

If your 6 volt pump is a negative ground unit you'll have to reverse the wires i.e. the hot wire becomes ground, etc. You should mount the electric pump as close to the gas tank as possible, I'd also install a fuel filter in line before and after the pump especially if you don't know the condition of the fuel tank. It sounds like you are planning to use the electric as the primary pump; in that case, I would also install a "kill switch" in an easily reachable location under the dash, in the glove box, etc. As for the fuel pump mount, you can install a block off plate. Some people remove the pushrod (I leave it in). Hope this helps.
 
You can remove the mechanical pump and make a plate to cover the hole where it bolts to the fuel pump stand. Then remove the fuel pump push rod. One other option is to remove the fuel pump push rod and let the electric pump push through the mechanical pump but the down side would be if the diaphram goes bad you would pump gas into the crankcase.
 
I use the electric pump to prime the mechanical pump after it has set for several days. The electric pump will pump right past the mechanical pump, in place.
 
Thanks for the tips guys. I think I will use the electric pump only, remove the mechanical pump from the scenario, install filters and put a "kill switch" in as you have suggested. Should I keep with copper fuel lines and fittings or use (fuel type) rubber hoses?

Max
 
Ken/Alabama.....I've seen comments before about blocking the hole when removing the pump rod. Something about loosing oil pressure if not done. I have an engine running an electric fuel pump and the mechanical pump removed, along with the pump rod. It runs fine, but still not clear if one should block off the hole. Mine is not block and left opened. Clarification here would most certainly be welcomed. Robert
 
maxparplus said:
Thanks for the tips guys. I think I will use the electric pump only, remove the mechanical pump from the scenario, install filters and put a "kill switch" in as you have suggested. Should I keep with copper fuel lines and fittings or use (fuel type) rubber hoses?

Max
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If the original steel fuel line is good, I'd just cut it where you want to install the filter/fuel pump/filter, use rubber fuel line to connect the filters to the fuel pump. It's a good idea to flair the steel line so you get a good tight fit with the rubber hose, you don't want the pump to be sucking air.
 
I 2nd what Lawson said... that's exactly the way my roadster is set up. Rarely need to turn on the electric pump but glad to know it's there if I need it!
 
Robert Dip said:
Ken/Alabama.....I've seen comments before about blocking the hole when removing the pump rod. Something about loosing oil pressure if not done. I have an engine running an electric fuel pump and the mechanical pump removed, along with the pump rod. It runs fine, but still not clear if one should block off the hole. Mine is not block and left opened. Clarification here would most certainly be welcomed. Robert
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The fuel pump push rod can be removed with no loss of oil pressure . The late 49-53 engines do have a tiny hole in the bushing for the fuel pump rod but it's not large enough to notice any difference.
 
You did not say why you installed an electric pump. Was the mechanical pump not working? If not maybe you should have replaced it with a new mechanical pump. Now, if you only have the electric pump you need to check the electric pump pressure and then install a fuel pressure regulator or you may flood your carb. And then the fun begins. So, why are you eliminating the pump your car came with?

John
 
Do not use copper fuel lines. Get new correct lines from Roy Nacewics. They are not expensive. You'll also need a fuel pressure regulator to stay below 3lbs pressure. For the fittings, do not use the spring type clamps, use only the worm type. You can mount your pump without drilling holes, just in front of the fuel tank on top of the rear crossmember.

Roy Nacewicz Enterprises www.fordbolts.com
Concourse correct fasteners
 
You are going down a very slippery slope, my friend. First a 6 v. electric pump to replace the stock mechanical, then next you want to install a T-5 to get some fuel economy and put the flathead in a "happy place". Oh, woah, is thou.;)
 
When I got my 48 the first thing I noticed was the most obnoxious sound toward the rear of the car.....a roar.....not a tick,tick ,tick like I remember on the other cars I've had....So I just ordered a new mech.setup....lines,hose,push rod....should I leave the electrics one too.....Can I check if it flows through by pressuring the tank a little....Carl
 
Is it not where you put oil in engine after oil change.Made a plate and tube with a small filter in top one of those push in so as to vent crank case and offer place to pour oil in and I did block off hole in block for push rod but engine was in rebuild at the time
 
Electric fuel pumps are a great idea. You'll never have vapor lock again. Absolutely install a pressure regulator and adjust to 3 1/2 lbs or less. Down to 2 lbs works fine. Also recommend a spare fuel pump in the trunk. I guarantee you that there will be failures on the road. I've had a couple go out over the past 8 years; pumps and regulators. Change the filters on a regualr basis and use the clear type that you can keep a vigil for sediment. Sediment=fuel tank and fuel line problems.

My failures have been due to corrosion of the pump and regulator units, and trash from lines and tank. I have replaced the tank and believe it or not, the inside of the fuel lines rusted and I had to change them as well. I love that we are using corn, but it does create problems for us old car hobbyists.

If you have a spare in the trunk, no problem; change it out in 5 minutes. If you don't have a spare, there's towing and embarassment, and the nagging wife, and....
 
oldford2 said:
You did not say why you installed an electric pump. Was the mechanical pump not working? If not maybe you should have replaced it with a new mechanical pump. Now, if you only have the electric pump you need to check the electric pump pressure and then install a fuel pressure regulator or you may flood your carb. And then the fun begins. So, why are you eliminating the pump your car came with?

John
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john if he put a correctly rebuilt FP he would NOT need a electric one,OMO. ken ct.:) These cars ran for 30-40 yrs with out elect. pumps and mech. ones have much better diaphrams in them now than 40 yrs ago.
 
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In my earlier post I forgot to mention the pressure regulator. :o I have Flatheads (cars & trucks) some 6 and some 12 volts, some with stock mechanical fuel pumps and some with electric fuel pumps. It has been my experience that the electric pumps do eliminate the dreaded (some say non existent) vapor lock. Here in Florida it can (and does) get very warm in the summer months and, as a result of this crap they are calling gas, vapor lock unfortunately is not a rare occurrence with mechanical pumps.:eek:
 
Electric pumps will cause vapor lock, when the weather is 100' & with this great gas we have they will vapor lock. It has happen to me and friend mine
 
34Phae said:
Electric pumps will cause vapor lock, when the weather is 100' & with this great gas we have they will vapor lock. It has happen to me and friend mine
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I don't doubt that, but I've never had vapor lock with an electric pump.;)
 
34Phae said:
Electric pumps will cause vapor lock, when the weather is 100' & with this great gas we have they will vapor lock. It has happen to me and friend mine
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Well, I doubt it. An electric pump mounted correctly near the fuel tank, and not adjacent to the exhaust pipe won't vapor lock. It will, however, suck air at the fittings if installed with the garbage spring clamps supplied with most fuel filters.
 
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