46-48 Flathead 59A-B V8 Valve Removal

kyhotrod

Junior Member
OK Friends... I need some advice and assistance. I'm working to disassemble my very first Flathead. I've been successful getting everything apart and I'm now left with getting the valves removed. My 59A-B has the mushroom type valve stems and I can see the retainer clip at the bottom of the valve assembly as well as the c-shape retainer clip at the top of the valve assembly. I will be completely replacing all of the valve assemblies so I'm looking for the most time-efficient method of removal. I don't have any special valve removal tools. I've searched the forum and found some threads on valve removal but thought that it might help if I pointed out that I will be completely replacing all of the valve assemblies with the rebuild so I don't care about how they get removed. Any ideas for the new guy?
 
OK Friends... I need some advice and assistance. I'm working to disassemble my very first Flathead. I've been successful getting everything apart and I'm now left with getting the valves removed. My 59A-B has the mushroom type valve stems and I can see the retainer clip at the bottom of the valve assembly as well as the c-shape retainer clip at the top of the valve assembly. I will be completely replacing all of the valve assemblies so I'm looking for the most time-efficient method of removal. I don't have any special valve removal tools. I've searched the forum and found some threads on valve removal but thought that it might help if I pointed out that I will be completely replacing all of the valve assemblies with the rebuild so I don't care about how they get removed. Any ideas for the new guy?

Think plasma cutter.....You can rent them if need be.
You can have everything out in 15 minutes.
 
kyhotrod:
Use it as a learning experience try to take apart the correct way.
That way if you install the same type you will all ready have the understanding of how the work.
Also there may be some one that does not have the $$$ for a new set and you can help them out with your used set. It Called Pay it Forward. Some one may do the same for you some day.
Pete's Way is by no means wrong Just very permanent.
 
If the cam and lifters are out, make a small driver that will go around the valve stem and sit on the guide and hold the valve open. Sounds confusing but you need a way to drive the guides down and out. I have used a ready rod (threaded rod) long nut connector, that is 3/8s, big enough to go around the valve stem. Saw it down the middle and cut it to length, compress the valve and fit it under the head of the valve. Now you can tap the seats down and remove the horseshoe clip, take the spring off, and you're home. Hope you understand, be patient.
 
Watch that very good video on Youtube, he removes the valves, springs and lifters with a pry bar and socket, makes it look easy!
 
Thanks to all of you for the feedback! I appreciate it very much and will continue working and learning until I get these valves removed.
 
Don't the videos always make it look easy? If it only was that way always. Sometimes yes, sometimes no.
 
OK Friends... I need some advice and assistance. I'm working to disassemble my very first Flathead. I've been successful getting everything apart and I'm now left with getting the valves removed. My 59A-B has the mushroom type valve stems and I can see the retainer clip at the bottom of the valve assembly as well as the c-shape retainer clip at the top of the valve assembly. I will be completely replacing all of the valve assemblies so I'm looking for the most time-efficient method of removal. I don't have any special valve removal tools. I've searched the forum and found some threads on valve removal but thought that it might help if I pointed out that I will be completely replacing all of the valve assemblies with the rebuild so I don't care about how they get removed. Any ideas for the new guy?
I had to, on the advice of another barner, get the "red wrench" after about six of my valve assemblies.
 
If junking the valves...a drill will do the job of removing top of valve. Do a reasonably accurate center punch, drill, head of valve can be broken away. Then a deep socket can be used to punch down guide to remove clip.
Always try the shop manual way with prybar first as usually at least some will cooperate.
 
If the cam and lifters are out, make a small driver that will go around the valve stem and sit on the guide and hold the valve open. Sounds confusing but you need a way to drive the guides down and out. I have used a ready rod (threaded rod) long nut connector, that is 3/8s, big enough to go around the valve stem. Saw it down the middle and cut it to length, compress the valve and fit it under the head of the valve. Now you can tap the seats down and remove the horseshoe clip, take the spring off, and you're home. Hope you understand, be patient.

How do you get the cam and lifters out if the valves are still in place?
 
had an engine that I tried to disassemble over a period of 6 mos. Had to give up and brake the cam. saved the block tho.
 
How do you get the cam and lifters out if the valves are still in place?
I don't tell all my tricks but if the valves are not stuck i'll tell you how to get the cam out with the valves in. Now pay attention cause we'er we'll have test after. With the pickel fork pry the valves open as far as they will go, take a wooden cloths pin and put it under the head of the valve, do this to all the valves. Roll the engine over and push the lifters with a long screwdriver. NOW, pull the cam out. I've changed cams with this trick if they have agustable lifters. Walt
 
I don't tell all my tricks but if the valves are not stuck i'll tell you how to get the cam out with the valves in. Now pay attention cause we'er we'll have test after. With the pickel fork pry the valves open as far as they will go, take a wooden cloths pin and put it under the head of the valve, do this to all the valves. Roll the engine over and push the lifters with a long screwdriver. NOW, pull the cam out. I've changed cams with this trick if they have agustable lifters. Walt

I didn't think the valves went high enough to remove the lifters.
 
The first and most important question thats never mentioned or asked is

1. Is it a rusty seized up motor or a free rust free one?????????????????

Makes all the difference in the world
 
Walt
"changed cams with this trick if they have agustable lifters. Walt "
Wouldn't this work with any kind of lifter, solid or adjustable??
John
 
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