rear axle rebuild

oliverguy

Senior Member
I'm about to undertake the removal of the rear axle of my 23 roadster to replace the thrust washers. One of the brake shoes broke on the previous owner and was fixed by him. I'm affraid that maybe this happened because one of the babbit thrust washer on that side is bad. I bought the MTFCA axle book & have read the removal section in the shop book. I see there are plenty of tools in Lang's catalog to go along with this job.

Are there any recommendations as which tools are really needed? I see a bunch of drivers, reamers etc. I have no idea what the internal condition of this axle, but the car is in excellent orginal condition & the rest of it mechanically is good. The axle makes no weird noises. I really don't want to buy more tools that I need, who knows if I'd ever do this job again. If parts are within spec as per the MTFCA book I'm going to re-use them where permissible.

Does anyone have any extras of the required tools that they would like to sell?

Thanks for your time.
 
You want a wheel puller for this and several other jobs. If you have to replace an axle shaft, you need a press to get the gear off. Other than that, I can't think of any special tools. I don't remember having to buy any tools I didn't already have.

Just pay close attention to what Glen tells you in the book, and you'll be OK.

Here are a couple of links for you. I really mean what I say about the inner sleeve. Never again.

http://dauntlessgeezer.com/DG79.html

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AfxWPsF4KhQ&list=UUFVx528ORtpDgCPJXbFCA6w&index=20
 
Yes I did. Anytime I do this job from now on, it will be with John Regan's Fun Projects kit.

That kit ABSOLUTELY simplified the whole job! 3 cheers!! I would suggest you buy a harbor fart dial indicator. That will help in measuring washer thrust and lash etc and also will help in checking runout on stuff like the axles, drive shaft, and carrier/ring gear face. Id also recommend a cheap set of machinist V blocks as well.
Steve can you provide a drawing for the bench mounted housing holder upper? I hate hand drawing the stuff... looks so barbaric, and cant see having this guy buying the $200 model for a one time use. ws

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I have no problems with the stock setup, mainly because I have vintage stevens tools to do the job. I have installed both for customers and recently I have been getting the FP ones back because the stop collar has spun and allowed things to float back and forth wearing out the bronze bushing and the bearings. John has stood behind them and replaced all worn parts. I would recommend tack welding the stop collar to the driveshaft.
 
Thanks guys! The measurements to build that stand would be really helpful. I already figured I'd have to build one. Also what pinion kit is needed the regular or adjustable. Their site doesn't go into detail why.
 
To hold the axle housing, just cut a slot 2 1/2" for the axle housing tube, and round out that slot to about 3 1/4" or so in a thick board. Bench mount works for me, or just support on saw horses/

The Fun Projects std non adj is what I like to use. Easy. I do make sure the collar set screw won't hit the inside of the axle tube, that happens. Grind off offending parts. And Lock Tite on the collar for me.
 

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Here's my holder. I spent $0 on it. Just a couple of 2x6 scraps bolted to the work table. I used a 2x2 in a vise to support the drive shaft tube, but another board bolted to the table could do the same. The hole is 51/4" and the slot is 25\8".
 

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Here is my rear axle stand. Being the good T parts guy I am, I took this old wore out TT brake drum and made an opening in it. I welded a bracket to it, so I could mount it right to the bench. I then added a steel shelf to the side, so I could put my magnetic dial indicator right were I need it.
 

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Just wanted to follow up that the axle rebuild went well. Car is being used this summer. Everything was in really good shape and was in spec as per the book. Thrustwashers were replaced and inside seals were put in. One washer was still ok, other was crushed and was laying in the bottom of the housing.
 
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