Fitting gas tank

L

Lee Mitch

Senior Member
Hey all. I have heard and read about the woes of fitting gas tanks back into the cowl. I am finally there on my ground-up restoration of my '30 Briggs fordor. After much cursing and scratching my newly painted tank, does anyone have any tips to refresh my memory? The welting is so tight that it doesn't allow the tank to fit or to move the lacing into position. From a novice in Model A terms, thank you very much!
 
The way I've done it is to: first, cut the flat part of the welting about 1 -2 inches apart at the curved portion so the welting can curve with the cowl. Then attach strips of cloth (about 6-8 inches long), with an office type stapler, to the flat part of the welting about 2" apart. Set the tank loose and reach under and pull the welting into place using the cloth strips. After the tank is tightened up, pull the cloth strips until they are free of the welting.
 
Thanks, but as I said in my post the welting is much too tight, pinched between the cowl and tank, and the tank will not set down in the cowl. Have you spread the cowl with jacks or other?
Thanks
 
Lee, can you describe the welt you are trying? Is it possible you have in your hands the fender welting with the 3/16ths" bead?
Or are you trying the cowl welt which is an 1/8th" bead?
The larger welt will be a bear to squeeze in and look odd as well.
I would get the tank to sit first, then line up a couple of the bolt holes and stick a bolt in at four corners just to hold the cowl where she must sit. you can pull them out as you go, and re-install once the welting has been installed.
Lots of slash cuts in the welt (behind the bead) will help as well as the cloth strips to get the bead where you want it. You could try some soap to help it slide, not anything oily as it will get onto everything.
Good luck!
 
I have been there. The little strips of cloth just pulled right off of the welting because of the extremely tight fit.

My only advise is to be sure to loosen the two screws that holds the cowl to the firewall. This allowed me to push the cowl apart while my Dad pushed from the top.

Hope this helps,

Chris
 
i feel your pain have been there with a freshly painted tank and body. For future would it be better to paint the tank in the body? I thought it was originally done that way and the welt was also painted. I am getting close to this point on my next one and was thinking of doing it that way any thoughts???
 
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I don't think the beaded welt is to be used with 4-dr tanks as they install from underneath the cowl and so there is no visible bead. Probably should be using the woven cloth gas tank "anti-squeak" material. Am I missing something?
 
Thanks Farrell for your help. I have been traveling and just got back home tonight after posting. The welting I am using is 1/8" . I measured when I got home. The problem is that the tank doesn't want to fit even without the welting. Same tank and cowl when I took them apart, but it just doesn't figure. The tank doesn't get past the corners nearest the windshield. I tried tipping it, starting with the back and then the front to no avail. The strips of cloth merely tear away because it is so tight even before the tank will go into position. Also, the screws from the cowl to firewall are out. I haven't tried the soap idea but will. Thanks again. By the way, I fully enjoyed the B.C. experience 2 years ago at the International meet. Beautiful place!
 
Just a thought. If you have mounted and shimmed the newly painted body back on the restored frame without first installing the gas tank you may have the body "kinked" a little at the cowl and door piller as to when the gas tank was originally removed. If that is the case you might try loosening the body to frame mounting bolts.

The cloth strips stapled to the welt never worked for me either. A screw driver and needle nose pliers plus careful placement of welt when sliding the tank in works pretty good for me. Also, one person can install a gas tank but a couple competent friends to help makes it much easier to align the welt and install the tank.

On one of my Model a "rebuild's" I had to remove the windshield to gas tank filler trim piece to get the tank and welt back in.

Final thought.....if the new gas tank is not original to your car it might be a little more difficult to install.
 
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Lee was there any work done to the rear flange of the tank? You may find that you might have to bend the tank flange corners down, and in, a bit to clear. Don't get too physical here as you wouldn't want a leak at the seams. I did a 28 and a 29 this way, and I don't know what you are working on. I started with getting the rear of the tank just touching the top of the cowl. The botton tank tunnel resting on the front of the fire wall. Tip the tank down and the back while pulling the center of the firewall out forward to clear the tunnel. The damn thing slid right in. The welting had some tight spots especially where the tank arches up to meet the windshield post, but with a little "blue air" it was manuvered in to my satisfaction.
I did not have to worry about a finished paint job as I painted them assembled to get the welting painted the same color. I suspect you may be doing a repaint later but I hope not. Lee, send in some photos, maybe we can see what you are up against and make the advice a little more meaningful.
Good luck!
 
Thanks Richard and Farrell. Great ideas! I'll try them today. I did remove the front body bolts as well as using plenty of "blue air." : ^) Does anyone recommend or have you used a jack or similar item to carefully and slightly expand the cowl side-to-side?
 
on the 30-31 tank installation remove the screws on the top of the cowl panels take some paint sticks or tapered wood shims and push them in from the front and spread out the cowl panels on the top, each side can be opened up about 3/8" it makes the tank go in a lot easier. once the tank is in put your welting close to where you want it then remove the shims.
 
First, I drove the cab flange outward with a block of wood and a hammer.
Then I cut the welt about every inch just about 1/4 inch below the bead and epoxied the welt to the tank. Finally, I greased the welt on the tank and the cowl opening. It slid right in.
 
My brother works at an upholstery shop and I had him make my welt with almost 3" extra material. I trimmed most of it down except at the corners and a couple of places along the sides. This was great for pulling and couldn't come loose. Trimmed after the install.
 
Lee Mitch said:
Thanks Richard and Farrell. Great ideas! I'll try them today. I did remove the front body bolts as well as using plenty of "blue air." : ^) Does anyone recommend or have you used a jack or similar item to carefully and slightly expand the cowl side-to-side?
Click to expand...

I guess I am confused after reading all the responses. Did you mock-fit the tank and did it fit before? Are you using correct welt (--not the plastic kind)?? Is/has the tank been over-body worked where too much paint or filler is causing your problems???
 
BRENT in 10-uh-C said:
I guess I am confused after reading all the responses. Did you mock-fit the tank and did it fit before? Are you using correct welt (--not the plastic kind)?? Is/has the tank been over-body worked where too much paint or filler is causing your problems???
Click to expand...

This post started 2 years ago. One would figure he got it in or sold the car parts by now.
 
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