'39 Clutch Question

R

Rebel Sympathy

Senior Member
Howdy, Boys:

Let's say you had a very low mileage, original '39 sedan with a lot of clutch chatter. And let's say you tightened the chatter rods. And let's say you tightened the motor mount and ****** mount nuts. And let's say you checked the rear shackles and spring mount bolts for tightness. And let's say you then replaced the motor mounts and ****** mounts. And let's say the #!%@!!! car is still chattering badly as ever. And let's say you went into the house and got drunk. And let's say you finally conceded that you need to pull the engine and resurface the flywheel and replace the clutch disc and pressure plate........

What brand of clutch would be the best choice? I know some aftermarket clutches tend to chatter more than others. I'd sure like to get the best brand available. Your knowledge and experience is valuable.

Much obliged,

Mike
 
Before doing that, you might want to put the bumper against a tree, rev the engine and slip the clutch to see if you can burn off the oil or grease that is on the clutch disc. Ed
 
Hey Mike,
Diaphram pressure plate....I'm assumeing that you are speaking of this when you say 'brand of clutch'. This type is used in modern iron and available/reliable/strong and can be adapted to your application..JMO.
 
I have a 39 with a 59 ab motor guys here told me fort wayne clutch american made call them very helpful their phone # is 800 258 8243
best to you Jack
 
My suggestion would be to contact a local clutch rebuilding company, take them your pressure plate and clutch and have them make them like new. it worked for me. Jack in San Diego
 
Fort Wayne Clutch is a rebuilder that is highly experienced with the early clutches. They can rebuild your clutch or possibly exchange a set with you. Mine always turn around in less than 2-weeks on a rebuild but my stuff is later Mercury Borg & Beck type so they don't carry the cores on those. If you have a decent machine shop to do the flywheel, your hopefully back to clutch engagements that won't rattle your teeth.
 
Ed Pitts said:
Before doing that, you might want to put the bumper against a tree, rev the engine and slip the clutch to see if you can burn off the oil or grease that is on the clutch disc. Ed
Click to expand...

Thanks, Ed. But, I cannot help but wonder what I'd then do the next time oil gets on the clutch again. Afterall, I will not have fixed the source of the oil. And, by then, my original 33k flywheel will have been scorched until it was "blued" by heat, not to mention the heat cracks and scoring. I just cannot do that to this car..... I appreciate your willingness to offer helpful suggestions, however.

Mike
 
HOW ABOUT TAKING THE CLUTCH INSP PLATE (ON THE ******) OFF AND SPRAYING A CAN OF BRAKE KLEEN IN THERE?? nOTHING TO LOSE IF IT'S OILED UP. jmo
Sorry about the caps.
I've also done the immoveable object deal (32 coupe, 55 olds, 39 ******)
Paul in CT
 
I have always beeen lucky and found Genuine Ford NOS or rebuilt clutch parts. Bob Selzam in New Jersey may still have everything new and Genuine. From all the prior feedback for years on old Fordbarn and new I suppose I would also try Fort Wayne next but I still bet your problem is not the clutch itself but something is not as new,motor mounts would be the first. Seems if it was a true clutch problem it would be slipping more than chattering. A local street rod/old car shop has had an ongoing issue with a 1940 Ford 85 hp car clutch and throwout bearing,all from one of the well known vendors,all China made and junk ,bearing went right away and sounds like clutch just does not engage. Whether they listened to me about American made and Fort Wayne I don't know,this shop is not Flathead Friendly so they are probably lining up their usual fix a "crate" garbage truck engine. Couple of us flathead guys hang around this shop for a reason,like buzzards, scored a 59AB awhile back with a Merc crank.
 

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There may be some part of the pressure plate or disk that is not manufactured or machined correctly or some form of warpage. Proper adjustment of the release fingers can make a difference. Even a worn pilot bearing in the flywheel with associated main input shaft bearing looseness can have an affect.
 
Thanks, 37 Coupe. All good advice. I'm replacing the motormounts first. Then, if necessary, I'm going further......

Neat sign, by the way. No doubt, very rare, I'm sure. I love it.

Mike
 
The release fingers on one (used) I installed were the problem... Should have bolted it to a flywheel (out of the car) and measured the finger height, to see if they were equal... I drove my AV8 for a while knowing that this was the problem- the thought of taking it apart made it tolerable- barely
Karl
 
The chatter may not be in the clutch at all.If the splined coupling and/or splines are worn on DS or U-joint is worn,you will get chatter.In fact any extra slack any where in drive line will produce chatter as will a soft trans mount.
 
Sounds like you are thinking this out...I had a simular problem with chatter....I used the wrong pressure plate bolts on mine...I would recommend geniune henry shoulder bolts I found a set laying around i decided to have my flywheel surfaced and lightened at the same time....I found with the wrong bolts the pressure plate was waffle-ing and not layin flat...only when i put the proper bolts in did it perform properly....I would take 1931 flamingo's suggestion first....I also used a geniune ford tractor pressure plate and disk on mine it worked good
 
i find that if the trans input shaft splines are dry & the splines in the middle of the
clutch driven plate are dry , then often you get a constant shudder.
i would go with FLAMINGO & get the trans inspection cover off and get some spray
lube down on those splines & so what if you get a little on the outside edges of the plate , it will burn-evaporate off . go for it.
 
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