Any recommendations for a basic test meter?

28Annie

28Annie

Member
Can anyone recommend a decent, basic test meter that is good for a Model A electrical rookie? Analog or digital? I just want to be able to learn basic electrical diagnostics on my car, so I don't need something suitable for the Space Shuttle! Thanks :)
 
28Annie, I have a really great digital volt/ohm meter that I use on everything......accept the A. The open ignition tends to make the digitals a little snakey. I bought a cheap analog for under thirty bucks that I use on the Fords. It's harder to read because the meter face is small but far more accurate. If I had my druthers I would by another with a larger meter. For most diagnostics you can get by with a cheap test light and probe.
 
I highly recommend a Fluke digital multimeter (DMM). Be warned the price can be anywhere from $100-300 typically but they are accurate and built to last.

I personally use a Fluke 179 and a Simpson 260 7P depending on what I am working on.

You will find the more expensive digital meters are much faster and far less annoying to use than the cheaper ones.
 
cheap analog multimeter. Mostly you will be testing continuity, and precise measurement isn't needed...fwiw,jm
 
MrTube said:
I highly recommend a Fluke digital multimeter (DMM). Be warned the price can be anywhere from $100-300 typically but they are accurate and built to last.

I personally use a Fluke 179 and a Simpson 260 7P depending on what I am working on.

You will find the more expensive digital meters are much faster and far less annoying to use than the cheaper ones.
Click to expand...

We used Fluke meters troubleshooting John Deere combines and I say they are the best.

However, there were several times that I would lay one on top of a steer tire and forget it and then my partner would start the combine up and back it out of the stall. They don't hold up well under 10 tons of combine. Make kind of a sickening 'crunch' sound when they get run over:D. The boss was pretty cool about it. He always ordered several extras and had them locked up in the tool room.
 
So the "cheap test light" is just for checking continuity, correct?

Also, many charts showing the electrical system for a Model A are available, but is there a good reference for showing what you should have for voltage at each connection throughout the system? For instance, what should the output voltage be at each side of the generator cutout switch or at the terminal block?
 
Jeff/Illinois said:
We used Fluke meters troubleshooting John Deere combines and I say they are the best.

However, there were several times that I would lay one on top of a steer tire and forget it and then my partner would start the combine up and back it out of the stall. They don't hold up well under 10 tons of combine. Make kind of a sickening 'crunch' sound when they get run over:D. The boss was pretty cool about it. He always ordered several extras and had them locked up in the tool room.
Click to expand...


:eek:!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Jim Mason said:
cheap analog multimeter. Mostly you will be testing continuity, and precise measurement isn't needed...fwiw,jm
Click to expand...

I agree with Jim. For basic Model A electrical trouble shooting I have used a $15 multitester (not digital) bought at the local hardware store for over 30 years and never felt like I needed anything more.
 
There are plenty of situations in auto troubleshooting when analogue meters are easier to read, for example in poor light or when the meter is in your peripheral vision and you can see the needle position but couldn't read a digital number. One important difference between digital and analogue meters is how much they load the circuit you're testing: the analogue meter takes a tiny bit of current to move the needle; the digital meter takes almost zero current. This is important when you're troubleshooting solid state circuits but means nothing when working on a Model A.
 
Some time ago Tom Wesenberg recommended the Sperry SP-152A. They're offered on Amazon for about $10. I bought three to spread around and keep one in the Tudor tool set.

Joe

(Hah--took me too long to find the meter and the photo link--gotta be quick around here.)

31hROUb1QzL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
 
This is all helpful, guys but I have to narrow this down to what's needed to get me started:
1) Test light for continuity; do I need a separate one or can/should I just use the multimeter?
2) A recommendation on a reasonably priced ($50) meter
3) A chart, book or website posting that shows what the voltage should be at each electrical connection throughout the system

Thanks
 
Wow - That Sperry meter is yard-sale priced! I do like the idea of having an extra one to keep in the "under the seat" road bag.
 
1) I have test lights, but 98% of the time I use the multimeter.

2) There aren't many new analog meters in the $50 range--those are almost all digital. The Sperry (or similar) is adequate. If you really want to spend $50, search ebay for a Simpson 260. I have a couple and they are very good, but they're also large and heavy.

3) Model A electrics are very simple. Generally speaking, you should see battery voltage on the battery side of every load, and ground on the other side. Voltage drops should be very minimal. Even a diode cutout only drops a few tenths of a volt.

Joe
 
I have several and also recommend the $10. to $15. analog for trouble shooting. Digital is great for determining exact values but the are useless around a running Model A. Analog also is much better for go-nogo testing. I find them at Home Depot and cheaper at swap meets. Keep one in each car and one on each bench. I do also have a $10. digital that I use on rare occasions. The expensive ones stay in the drawer and seldom get used.
 
JoeWay said:
Some time ago Tom Wesenberg recommended the Sperry SP-152A. They're offered on Amazon for about $10. I bought three to spread around and keep one in the Tudor tool set.

Joe

(Hah--took me too long to find the meter and the photo link--gotta be quick around here.)

31hROUb1QzL._SL500_AA300_.jpg
Click to expand...

What Joe said! I have three of these Sperry meters, just so I don't have to look too long to find one. You can use it to measure up to 20 amps and it also has 1.5 and 9 volt battery checks, as well as all the other common ranges for amps, ohms, AC volts and DC volts. Check on ebay for "SPERRY SP-152A and you can have one delivered to your door for just over $13. It's my favorite meter, and my expensive Fluke just sets on the shelf.

BTW, this meter also has a buzzer continuity test.
 
Electrical tools.jpg

What I would recommend is on the left (a simple analog multimeter and an inexpensive continuity tester, along with a couple of extra, clip-on test leads). The multimeter will come with a simple instruction book showing how the multimeter can be used for measuring DC (direct current) voltages and resistance (such as to ground).

What I would not recommend - due to bulkiness and cost - for the garden variety electrical work done on the Model A is on the right (a Simpson 260).

I don't think I paid more than $25 in total for what is on the left; I can't remember what I paid for my Simpson 260 in the 1970's, but even then it was far more than $25. Nice instrument (as is the Tektronix dual-beam oscilloscope, not shown) but, imho, a bit of overkill for what will ail your Model A, electrically speaking.
 
Also, after you buy the meter, go to the local Goodwill or other second hand store and you can find a nice carrying case for about a buck or so. You might even find one cheaper at a garage sale, but for a buck you can't drive around much to look.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top