There have been posts on this from way back on the Old Barn, where mention has been made of using anti-seize and now oil as a lube to help the stud go in easier. My view is that using a lube defeats the requirement that the stud outer shell be tight in the bore and not be inclined to rotate. Accordingly, I would clean out the bore with a .750" reamer (which will not cause the bore to become enlarged as could any type of grit) then clean the bore and the stud shell with laquer thinner or acetone, and then apply some red locktite which will serve as a lube going in, but when cured will prevent rotation.
Sometimes the center stud will have collapsed in the insulating material and has worn the bore out-of-round. Depending on the severity, the worn spot(s) can often be welded up with a TIG and then finished back to round.
As mentioned several times, as they come the OD of the stud shell is almost always too large and must be reduced to allow tight installation, but not so tight that the outer shell collapses halfway in.
The above applies to the solid bores. The studs will usually install as they come into spring eyes, as the eyes tend to "give" enough.
We have made tooling that can be used in a hydraulic press where possible, or with a big mutha Proto puller that pushes the stud into the bore. As posted above, needs to push on the outer shell, not the center stud alone.
The studs usually come with nyloc-type nuts and no provision for cotter pins. We s-can the nylocs, drill the studs and use castle nuts and cotter pins. Looks like original and cannot come undone...
