Timing

Franchise_24

Franchise_24

Well-known member
Is it possible to set the timing with the timing pin by yourself, or do you normally need another person to help out?
 
Franchise_24 said:
Is it possible to set the timing with the timing pin by yourself, or do you normally need another person to help out?
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Hi, No problem to do it by yourself, hold the timing pin with left hand and do the crank with right hand to the pin goes in the small hole in timinggear...
 
plind said:
Hi, No problem to do it by yourself, hold the timing pin with left hand and do the crank with right hand to the pin goes in the small hole in timinggear...
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Ahhh, that makes sense. My crank is a little hard to turn, anyway to make it turn easier?
 
I do it all the time by myself. Very easy, just turn the engine over until the rotor is pointing at number one. Just need to be close, Then I put the car in third gear. I then put the pin in the hole and roll the car forward or backward untill the pin hits the hole. Then I put the car in neutral and finish the job of timing.
 
Franchise_24 said:
Ahhh, that makes sense. My crank is a little hard to turn, anyway to make it turn easier?
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Yes, Why not go ahead and remove the spark plugs????? With the spark plugs removed, the engine will be very easy to turn with the crank and it will be easier to find the mark if your not having to strain with the crank. No need to prove how strong you are, there is an easier way. While the plugs are out would be a good time to clean and check the gaps.
 
Purdy Swoft said:
Yes, Why not go ahead and remove the spark plugs????? With the spark plugs removed, the engine will be very easy to turn with the crank and it will be easier to find the mark if your not having to strain with the crank. No need to prove how strong you are, there is an easier way. While the plugs are out would be a good time to clean and check the gaps.
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4 new plugs and gaps checked. Thanks for the other info as well, appreciate it.
 
If your short like me :(,.... I straddle the bumper with my left leg over the bumper outside of the bumper support close to the left frt. tire, that makes it easy to hold the pin in with your left hand and turn the crank with your rt. hand.
And like Swoft say's, pull the plugs.
 
fordfixer said:
I do it all the time by myself. Very easy, just turn the engine over until the rotor is pointing at number one. Just need to be close, Then I put the car in third gear. I then put the pin in the hole and roll the car forward or backward untill the pin hits the hole. Then I put the car in neutral and finish the job of timing.
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You should be rotating the engine only in the direction it normally runs to take out all of the backlash.

Cahrlie Stephens
 
Would poor timing cause the car to backfire or want to stall out when you try to give it gas when it is idling? Thanks!
 
Franchise_24 said:
Would poor timing cause the car to backfire or want to stall out when you try to give it gas when it is idling? Thanks!
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YES that could be a reason, also dirt in the carb can cause backfiring. But most likely timing is the issue and make sure the points are set correctly;)
 
Timing could be the problem. In this case there is a good chance that it is running too lean. It could be that the float is set too low and the engine is starving for fuel when you try to accelerate. You may have the GAV closed too much. When the engine is cold it will need a richer setting at the gav or it can hesitate and backfire. After warm up, most model A zenith carbs run good with the gav at 1/4 turn off the seat. I run B carbs on my roadster, I open the gav 1/2 turn off the seat (depending on the ambient temperture) until it warms up and then I run the gav closed. It will hesitate if I close the gav too quick before it has had time to warm up. Vacume leaks can be a major cause of backfire. Pot metal carbs, such as Tillotson and Marvel are famous for warping at the flange and leaking vacume. There could be a vacume leak anywhere from the carb and manifold to the windshield wiper motor if you have vacume wipers. These are the common causes to look for.
 
I always use the fan to turn the engine with the plugs IN. It takes patience but it works. Removing the plugs makes it much easier obviously

If you think your fan cannot handle this stress then it doesn't belong on the engine spinning at several thousand RPM.


I use one of the newer 1 piece aluminum fans.
 
May also want to buy one of the timing tools the vendors sell. It helps you get the timing set a little easer. But if you are an old hand and setting the timing, then this tool may not be needed.
 
here is the way. take the pin and turn it around and put in back in the hole now take a c -clamp and put it on the timming pin and clamp it where you can. and turn the fan belt.may need to hold the fan belt to put tension on it when the timming hole comes up the c clamp will fall away and u are on the mark. if done right it always works. for me. hope this helps
 
Fred K-OR said:
May also want to buy one of the timing tools the vendors sell. It helps you get the timing set a little easer. But if you are an old hand and setting the timing, then this tool may not be needed.
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Fred, what tool are you talking about. Is it in one of the parts books????
 
Tom, it is the NuRex Distributor timing wrench. Just happened to have MAC's catalog and it is on page 268. But other vendors sell them also. MAC's wants $10.95 for it. Bratton's has it for $9.75 on page 158. For me, it was worth the money.
 
LOL, there is a moral to this post, when ever you get ready to install a new timing gear, make sure the divot or dimple is deep enough to be felt when its installed
 
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