Converting to 12V

Big Earl

Big Earl

Member
Despite the 6V / 12V debate, I need your input on what parts I am looking to get to convert my 39 engine/chassis to 12V. I will be rewiring the ole gal while in the process. Below is what I am looking at. Any other items that I will need?

Wiring: [FONT=Helvetica,Arial]
VINTAGE HOT ROD WIRING KIT[/FONT], Sacramento Vintage Ford,
http://www.vintageford.com/sect_search.cfm?Line=Hot Rod&Category=Wire Loom- Vintage

or

Highway 15 Nostalgia Custom/Street Rod Wiring Kit, American Autowire
http://www.americanautowire.com/highway_nostalgia.html

Alternator:
Powergen 1939-48 Flathead Ford Alternators, 12 Volt, Speedway

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Powergen-1939-48-Flathead-Ford-Alternators-12-Volt,4042.html

Distributor
2572101 - Mallory '32-'41 Flathead 3-Bolt Dual Point Distributor, Speedway
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Mallory-1932-41-Flathead-3-Bolt-Dual-Point-Distributor,7967.html

Coil
40001 - Pertronix Flame Thrower 1.5 Ohm Coil - Chrome, Speedway
http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Pertronix-Flame-Thrower-Coil-Chrome,411.html

I know I will need some resistors for the gauges, but am I missing anything else?

Thanks!
 
You might also look at a Kwik Wire (USA made) kit.They make a 12 fuse panel that contains a toggle switch that disables the ignition coil to prevent theft. You will need a CVR for your fuel and oil guage. It's a voltage reducer used on Ford guages in the 60's and 70's. It's very small and attaches to the back of the dash or gauge panel. I think the Napa part # for the CVR is IR-1. I would not use the Runtz resistors based on my experience that they can fail easily. If your car has an original radio you will need to find a resistor that will work with it. The same goes for the heater if you have a hot water heater. Change all your light bulbs and if you have an electric fan be sure to use a relay. Also use a relay if you convert to seal beam headlamps, but I think you will find that the 12 volt headlamp bulbs will work fine.
 
how are you doing the ballast resistor for the coil? does it have an internal ballast resistor or are you going to use an external ballast resistor? are you moving over to halogen lights in the front and LED tail lights? does the 39 have turn signal lights?
 
TJ said:
You might also look at a Kwik Wire (USA made) kit.They make a 12 fuse panel that contains a toggle switch that disables the ignition coil to prevent theft. You will need a CVR for your fuel and oil guage. It's a voltage reducer used on Ford guages in the 60's and 70's. It's very small and attaches to the back of the dash or gauge panel. I think the Napa part # for the CVR is IR-1. I would not use the Runtz resistors based on my experience that they can fail easily. If your car has an original radio you will need to find a resistor that will work with it. The same goes for the heater if you have a hot water heater. Change all your light bulbs and if you have an electric fan be sure to use a relay. Also use a relay if you convert to seal beam headlamps, but I think you will find that the 12 volt headlamp bulbs will work fine.
Click to expand...

TJ... thanks for the input
 
37ford4dr said:
how are you doing the ballast resistor for the coil? does it have an internal ballast resistor or are you going to use an external ballast resistor? are you moving over to halogen lights in the front and LED tail lights? does the 39 have turn signal lights?
Click to expand...

The Coil has 1.5 Ohm primary resistance

No halogen or LED's.

I will be installing turn signals... the body is a 38 with a single brake light, and I plan to incorporate turn signals in/below the rear bumper
picture.php
 
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Earl, I forgot to mention the coil. In the past I have used the coil adapter made by Patrick's in Arizona. I then use a standard type automotive coil with an internal resistor.
 
Brian, one CVR does the job. The CVR has two posts on it. One comes from the ignition source and the other post feeds all the gauges (oil, fuel, and temp if you have electric temp gauge). The amp guage does not need it as it will work with 6 or 12 volts. It only reads current. You will have to reverse the direction of the wire as it passes through the loop on the back of the gauge as it was originally wired for positive ground.
 
Any thoughts on the mallory distributor? Any way I can use my stock dist with an adapter?

I talked to the guys at PowerGen and they do not recommend putting a fan on the front of their gen. Anyone out there converting a stock generator to 12V? I really do not want to run an electric fan!
 
Big Earl said:
Any thoughts on the mallory distributor? Any way I can use my stock dist with an adapter?

I talked to the guys at PowerGen and they do not recommend putting a fan on the front of their gen. Anyone out there converting a stock generator to 12V? I really do not want to run an electric fan!
Click to expand...

Your distributor itself isn't voltage-sensitive.

You can either run a later (post '56) generator, or get a set of 12 volt filed coils for your old generator.
 
Ed Whitney & Co in Fullerton,CA converts your orig gen to alt.I had mine done for my 36 coupe.Looks stock and you can use your fan.They use your front mount,pulley and rear cover then machine a new housing out of aluminum and put a 40A forklift alt in it.They advertise in the V8 Times.I used Lee Kelley in ID to convert my gauges.He is reasonable and does excellent work and no need to buy volt a drops or Runtz.I even used the stock 36 wiring looms for lights and dash circuits.I am running a Mallory Unilite dizzy and a Mallory coil with external resistor.
 
I re-wired and converted my '46 to 12V, Neg grnd. No need to buy a different distributor (think about what the distributor actually does and how it does it). The old one will do just fine. Change the coil and associated ballast and you're good on the ignition side
 
Big E,
Just my 2 cents.........I converted my '41 1/2 ton to 12v
and used a GM single wire alt and painted it black. I can't say it disappear-
ed but your eye is not drawn to it. I used a repro wiring harness from
Drake to keep the old timey look. I kept the VR on the firewall for
old time sake and fudged the wires that were no longer needed to appear
as though they were still doing something. I kind like the fabric cover-
ing on the looms. Another benefit of the alt is it's not too heavy, it's
cheap and it's short which might help with a multi carb setup. FYI I
ordered my alt and slingshot mount from LD Becker Norwalk Ohio
419 668 5986
I'm running the orig gages and use one 12v to 6v reducer (not
runtz) to feed them. The voltage reducer made specifically for gages
and available everywhere did not work well at all and I tried 3 of them...
perhaps that issue has been resolved by now.
Keep asking we'll keep answering.
Charlie ny
 
Thanks guys for your input.

Charlie I would go that route, but need a way to move some air across my radiator.
 
I have read that the 6V generator will produce 12V on it's own without any modification to charge a 12V battery. I have not tried it yet but I intend to do so. Worth a try before buying a converted generator or alternator.
 
Cool Hand Lurker said:
I have read that the 6V generator will produce 12V on it's own without any modification to charge a 12V battery. I have not tried it yet but I intend to do so. Worth a try before buying a converted generator or alternator.
Click to expand...

A generator on its own will have a higher and higher output as RPMs increase, which is why we use regulators to cut in and cut out when revs are higher and lower than optimal.

You could probably get a 6V generator to put out 12 volts by revving the engine higher, but it probably won't put out 12 volts at low speeds.
 
Big Earl said:
Any thoughts on the mallory distributor? Any way I can use my stock dist with an adapter?

I talked to the guys at PowerGen and they do not recommend putting a fan on the front of their gen. Anyone out there converting a stock generator to 12V? I really do not want to run an electric fan!
Click to expand...

Assuming your stock generator is 2 brush with a fan mounted on the front pulley I would look for one of the older generator shops in your neighborhood to do the conversion. Lacking that I would order one that was converted from one of the major suppliers of antique Ford parts. I am sure most of them can get one if it is not in their catalog. That is the set up I am running in my '37. I hate the look of alternators.

Charlie Stephens
 
I look for 12v generators at swap meets, bolt 1939 end plate on front, using the 12v barrel and armature... Saw off the mounting bracket on the rear ...to use the ball bearing rear plate. Gotta watch the spacing between armature, front plate and pulley, but this works well for me...
Karl
 
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