40 ford headlight alignment screws

S

stubbygda

Junior Member
has anyone found a substitute or work around for these screws since no one seems to have them anymore. i have tried to find any #10 x32 alignment screws from anything but they all seem to be 1/4 or #12 size.
 
haven’t been able to find any #10/32 alignment screws (with the special head) at all. i looked at lots of alignment screws couldn’t find any. i was hoping someone might know of one. making it shorter is no issue and honestly a phillips or torx head would be recommend to the flat screw head. they ****** up way too easy.
 
a standard#10 won’t work. the alignment screw has a special head that allows it to push or pull the alignment ring. it has a double head, the alignment ring fits in between the heads.
 
I think I have a couple of junk '50 Ford headlight buckets up at my shop. I'll check them today. They used the same headlights as a '40, so maybe....
 
stubbygda said:
a standard#10 won’t work. the alignment screw has a special head that allows it to push or pull the alignment ring. it has a double head, the alignment ring fits in between the heads.
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Could you solder a very small steel or brass washer onto the threads below the original head so as to create the double head you need?

Another idea: Take two 10-24 nuts and screw them onto a 10-24 screw so they tighten up against each other. Then clamp the "bolt" into your hand drill or drill press and file them both to desired dia.
 
19Fordy said:

Another idea: Take two 10-24 nuts and screw them onto a 10-24 screw so they tighten up against each other. Then clamp the "bolt" into your hand drill or drill press and file them both to desired dia.
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My thoughts too Jim. I would use red, permanent Loctite on the nuts. File, grind and Dremel to shape.
 
i have to give it a try cause doesn’t look like too many other options other than buying new buckets which is silly simply because the alignment screws are messed up. thanks for the ideas, i can experiment around with different ways to see what works best. unfortunately it’s a lot of work for four screws but hey that’s restoration work lol.
thanks again.
 
This is where a cheap imported "mini-lathe" would come in handy. I have never regretted getting mine. With a 7" swing and a 14" capacity, it's really not a "mini" at all as far as my needs are concerned.
 
tubman said:
This is where a cheap imported "mini-lathe" would come in handy. I have never regretted getting mine. With a 7" swing and a 14" capacity, it's really not a "mini" at all as far as my needs are concerned.
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Yes, a lathe would be perfect but this can be done with a good drill press.

I'm interested in your lathe. Can you post the name and some more details for it? I could use one.

Thanks
 
Here's the one I bought. https://littlemachineshop.com/products/sieg-c3-7x14-mini-lathe. Like anything good, I see it's sold out, and the price has gone up several hundred dollars since I bought mine. The supplier "Little Machine Shop" was easy to work with, and had the parts in stock when I had a problem. I would expect the selection to be larger now, but the pricing has probably been effected in a negative way by trade policies and tariffs.
 
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TUBMAN: That's looks like a really nice lathe at a fair price. Wish it was a "Gap Bed".
But, that would raise the price. Wonder what the ID of the headstock spindle is?
 
I had looked for a used full size unit, but everything was too big, too worn out, needed 3-phase power, or was too expensive. I am by no means a machinist, but a good friend who is a retired machine shop owner said he thought it was a good deal. I haven't used half of its capabilities, but since I don't do axle housings or crankshafts, it is a good fit for me.

The same outfit offers "mini-mills". I am getting pretty old and stiff, but I'm still thinking.
 
Many good reviews for this lathe.
The HP is .47. Can you take a decent cut on CS with this motor?
 
The 1940 adjustment screws are 10-32 X 1-1/4"L as measured from under the second head, made of steel with a slotted pan head. Would be easy to solder a washer under the head with a gap of 1/16" between the two heads.
 
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