Problem with 1956 Tbird pulling hard to right

zuburg

zuburg

Senior Member
I have been fighting a hard pull to the right when hard braking for a very long time. I even had an experienced classic car restorer adjust the brakes while he had the car for an automatic transmission issue.

While driving the car today I sensed that when I moved the steering wheel to the left it felt stiffer or more resistance than when I moved the wheel to the right (a looser feel).

Could this be an issue with the steering box rather than the brake shoes? If so, might there be a repair or maintenance that could solve it or is it more likely a bad steering box?
 
I had a similar issue with my 57 Skyliner that turned out to be a problem with the brake shoes (right to left) on the front. I had replaced the brake shoes when I first got the car and didn't notice any difference in the shoes, but the right side definitely pulled more and would lock up the right front (on gravel especially). If the shoes on your car are relatively new it might be worth having a brake shop take a look at them and replace if needed. I believe the difference in my shoes was one side had a bevel on the leading edge when the shoe engaged and one side did not (the right side did not have the bevel). When I put on new shoes that were identical, the problem went away.

Your steering might also be a contributor, especially if there is a lot of play in the steering wheel just sitting still. There is an adjustment on the steering box to "tighten" the center position play, but that would not explain the stiffer resistance when turning left. There is an adjustment screw on the top of the box. You have to loosen the jam nut that holds the screw in position and then turn the slotted screw clockwise (inward) to tighten. If the adjustment screw has already been turned in, it is likely that there is wear between the steering shaft worm gear and the sector shaft roller that mates with the worm gear. These older steering boxes used 90 weight gear oil (not grease) and many of them leaked and then ran dry for all these years.

Good Luck,
Dave
 
Been a long time, so consult the manual before you trust my memory.

The slack in the box and the “tightening” mentioned above needs to be done with the box centered. There’s a high point you adjust to. Then the steering wheel is center by proper adjustment of the tie rod ends. Sounds like yours might have been “adjusted” off center, so it hits the tight spot when turned.

This doesn’t address the pull. I’ve had pinched lines, but they pulled one way when applied, and the other when you let off. Fluid was late getting to 1 brake, then took a minute to release. Could also be a partially blocked rubber hose on one front brake. But most likely shoes like oldave said.
 
It is possible that the shoes you have on one side are made from a different composition than the other. Might be rare, but it is possible. Long time ago I had a wheel cylinder blow out while far away from where I live (across the country). Fortunately, I was at a TBird show and was able to get a new cylinder and shoes for that wheel.. However, the new shoes were different than the ones I had and the car pulled to the side (don't remember which side). While on the way home, I replaced both sides at a motel and all was good. Since you cannot find the problem, total replacement may be necessary.


Another possibility is that both wheel cylinders are not the same (internal size).


Also look at the backing plates. There may wear grooves where the shoes ride affecting the braking
 
Could be wheel cylinders have gotten rusty, corroded over time due to moisture and the pistons don’t move in and out smoothly thus the brakes aren’t being applied evenly causing vehicle to pull to one side. Replace or rebuild the cylinders and the issue may go away. To alleviate the cylinders from rust and corrosion replace the brake fluid with silicone brake fluid. Silicone doesn’t attract moisture thus no deterioration of the wheel cylinders from rust. I’ve had silicone fluid in my 56 f100 since 1982 and no issues.
 
To alleviate the cylinders from rust and corrosion replace the brake fluid with silicone brake fluid.

Silicone doesn’t attract moisture thus no deterioration of the wheel cylinders from rust. I’ve had silicone fluid in my 56 f100 since 1982 and no issues.
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DOT 5 also attracts moisture. The hydraulic braking system attracts moisture from the atmosphere. It is a given.

The difference is DOT 3 and/or 4 are meant to absorb moisture and the fluid is changed (supposed to be) on a regular basis.

DOT 5 does not absorb the moisture and it eventually collects at the lowest point(s) in the system, causing fouling and corrosion.

DOT 5

DOT 5 is another type of brake fluid that’s silicone-based and not hygroscopic. This means water pockets can build up within your braking system, causing performance issues and pedal problems. Rust may also develop on other braking parts and materials.

Classic car owners may want to use DOT 5 because it has a higher heat capacity than DOT 3 and DOT 4 and will not strip paint if it leaks.

But, overall, this brake fluid is not a good choice if you want your braking system to perform safely and efficiently.
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SOURCE - https://mpbrakes.com/best-brake-fluid-for-classic-car/
 
I even had an experienced classic car restorer adjust the brakes while he had the car for an automatic transmission issue.
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Did he pull all four wheels and do a complete inspection?

It sounds to me also that you have sticking wheel cylinders.

Today's aftermarket brake shoes are junk. If you notice the front set will come with a much shorter primary shoe pad (one fits all).

They are not going to brake the car effectively, especially four wheel drum, assist or no assist.

Do you perform your own work or hire it out?
 
About 8-9 years ago when I was first rebuilding most of the mechanicals on the car, replaced all 4 wheel cylinders, had the drums turned, replaced the shoes, had the power booster rebuilt, replaced all the soft brake hoses and most of the hard lines, as well as the master cylinder. When I replaced the shoes, I remember the two shoes were different sizes but the directions were very clear as to where the smaller shoe went (can’t remember if they said front or rear). I don’t drive it much so have just been putting up with it.

At first (years ago) it pulled hard left. I kept trying to adjust the brakes trial and error and eventually made it pulling hard right. A month ago I had a guy adjust them while he had the car to replace the linkage seal. He said he adjusted them and I just needed to drive the car to get them to settle in. (?)

Just a note: when driving down the road I can take my hands off the steering wheel and it tracks perfectly straight for a long time. Back when I was replacing everything, I also replaced all the front suspension parts, bushings and coil springs and all 4 shocks.
 
At first (years ago) it pulled hard left. I kept trying to adjust the brakes trial and error and eventually made it pulling hard right.

A month ago I had a guy adjust them while he had the car to replace the linkage seal. He said he adjusted them and I just needed to drive the car to get them to settle in. (?)

Just a note: when driving down the road I can take my hands off the steering wheel and it tracks perfectly straight for a long time.
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If the shoes are new and were not arc-ground to match the diameter of the brake drum, it will take possibly several hundred miles for the shoes to seat into the brake drum (finally reaching the same drum circumference).

This may take several adjustments especially if no self-adjusters.

It is also important to replace brake hardware as the return springs will weaken with heat and age possibly causing shoe drag.

The fluid needs to be system flushed at least every two years due to moisture absorption, even if garaged/stored.

If she tracks correctly and no unusual tire wear, the steering should be good.

Before any attempt at adjusting the steering box, read the WSM closely as there is a diagnostic procedure to follow to prevent damage.
 
Thanks Kultulz. That must be why my guy said to drive it a bunch. Now that the temperatures are dropping under 90 degrees maybe I can drive it more. I assume driving and applying brakes as often as I can will help? What about driving while gently riding the brakes?
 
What about driving while gently riding the brakes?
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No, that will cause excessive heat and possible glazing of the shoes, possible hot spots on the drum surface and accelerated friction material wear..

Drive normally. As the shoes seat in your pedal height is going to drop. You adjust once you notice that. Once fully seated they will wear at a normal rate. Remember, there is no self-adjust feature so frequent adjustments may be necessary, especially urban driving.
 
If the idler arm hasn't been checked it wouldn't hurt.
The end attached to the center link shouldn't move up and down. If it does the right side of the center link can float enough to affect toe-in slightly.
Add some weight shift to the front suspension during braking and it might account for pulling???
 
It rips the wheel out of your hand with the steering wheel straight ahead and you step on the brakes then it's probably the brakes. The usual cause of this is awheel cylinder that has soaked the front brake lining. If it's the rear it usually will still stop straight but the wet shoes in the rear wheel grab and lock up the wheel. If the brake shoes are new than you should have made sure the drums were machined the same diameter on the same axle and the shoes were ground to fit the drums which is something nobody does anymore. Especially on the fronts if the drums are not ground the same diameter, within .010 of an inch of each other, the one wheel will have more braking than the other and cause it to pull. The shoes when fitted against the drums should make a full contact, if not than they should be ground until they do. Unfortunately, in places like CA, we had a brake shoe grinder in our shop, and the state made us get rid of it in the 1980s, big fine if they found one in your shop. There were very few brake drum shoe cars on the road in the 1980s and because of the health hazards of grinding brake shoes they had us get rid of the shoe grinders. I have two of those grinders out in my garage.

Now the steering box could also be the problem. If it's a power steering box it could have an internal hydraulic problem making it turn harder in one direction.
 
f the brake shoes are new than you should have made sure the drums were machined the same diameter on the same axle and the shoes were ground to fit the drums which is something nobody does anymore.

Especially on the fronts if the drums are not ground the same diameter, within .010 of an inch of each other, the one wheel will have more braking than the other and cause it to pull.

The shoes when fitted against the drums should make a full contact, if not than they should be ground until they do.
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AMEN!​

If one cannot find an OSHA COMPLIANT shop in the area, you can simply remove the drums occasionally and check the shoe wear patterns for final adjustment.

ALONG with quality correct lining length shoes.
 
Check your front wheel bearings. I had the same problem with a F100. It turned out one wheel bearing had failed and it caused the other side to be the only brake working.
 
I took it out for a drive today (over an hour). Another interesting symptom was it would pull hard right when braking from about 40mph and then when I released the brake and reapplied at the slower speed it would not pull.

I’m thinking of replacing all of the springs. When I originally replaced the cylinders and shoes, I ordered new springs but they didn’t look like the originals so stuck with the older springs.
 
zuburg said:
I’m thinking of replacing all of the springs. When I originally replaced the cylinders and shoes, I ordered new springs but they didn’t look like the originals so stuck with the older springs.
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Hold on a little while as I remembered something unique to 1954/56 front drum brakes.

We will get it straightened out.
 
I can open that link you gave. What do you need me to do? Copy/paste it into an email or direct message?
 
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