Problem with 1956 Tbird pulling hard to right

zuburg said:
https://www.fordbarn.com/forum/showthread.php?t=242471

Hope this works
Click to expand...

No ...

I thought I was BANNED but the problem(s) must be in my computer.

The thread discussed brake shoe adjustment eccentrics on the 1954-1955 model years. I do not think it was carried to the 1956 model year.

The MPC FINAL ISSUE has most of this info deleted and I do not have a 1956 WSM.

THANX! for posting.

Do you have the use of a garage where the front brakes can be inspected and the BIRD can sit for a while?
 
I think I’m just going to wait until I get all the parts and plan on starting early in the morning to make sure I have time to get it all done in a day. I have to park the 2 cars in my driveway in the street so I can move my 1998 Corvette out of the garage so I can move the T-bird over to the middle of the garage to give me room to work around both sides. I’ll start with inspecting the idler arm, then inspect the wheel cylinders (don’t expect any issues there because it does stop well at slow speeds), then replace all the springs and maybe replace the shoes from Casco to replace the ones I got from Autozone.

The temperature is finally dropping down under 90 degrees, hopefully it won’t go back up to the mid to high 90s by the time I get the parts.
 
Based on some of what I read, the brakes with eccentrics were only through 1955, so maybe 1955 Tbirds had them but the 1956 and newer do not.
 
zuburg said:
Based on some of what I read, the brakes with eccentrics were only through 1955, so maybe 1955 Tbirds had them but the 1956 and newer do not.
Click to expand...

You're correct.

A few years ago there was an extensive thread on the subject (that I can't find) and I was going to research it further but I never got around to it. My bad ...

Personally, if I had a FORD or BIRD with that setup I would go to 56 drum brakes if wanting to stay drum/drum.

Now let me say this and I will leave you alone,

You cannot expect a quality brake overhaul using current parts quality from the box stores. Just be advised.

Also follow the several suggestions in this thread as to backing plates, wheel bearing service (incl new seals), hydraulics, etc.

Keep the board informed as to how it goes.
 
Likely a wheel cylinder, or a flex hose internal material wadding up in there.

I flush my brake fluid about every 6 or 7 years. Easier than dealing with issues.

Curious, is the brake top mounting have a nut on it, mounting it to the backing plate?
 
As Gene F says, it could be a brake line that has ruptured inside. If it turns left, then it would be the right line that is bad. Same with a cylinder that went bad.
 
There is a full TROUBLE SHOOTING GUIDE and repair procedure(s) explanation in the WSM.

No guessing or no might be this or that.

And using QUALITY PARTS is the key.
 
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