53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

The little round bump on the crank pulley is 2 degrees before top center (crankshaft). Ford never put any other mark on the 8BA crank pulleys. The old Mallory was the best bet back in the day to get a full advance by centrifugal but there is no load control (vacuum advance), The Modified GM distributors can be easily set up for both but I don't know how much it will help with overheating. Any distributor used should be set up for best advance depending on fuel delivery, camshaft modifications, and normal rpm of operation.

Flathead V8s like to crack in the exhaust pockets any time they are overheated more than they should be. I think I would look into that. It's going to require pulling the heads and likely even pulling the exhaust valves to be sure. The cracks can go down into the pockets so they may not be easily detectable if present. All it takes is one small leak to cause one side to get hot quickly which in turn causes overheating in the radiator. I'd look for Large variations in temperature between the two cylinder banks to narrow it down some.
 
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

Found a picture of the engine back in 2010 before it was installed.

I’m already suspecting that the alternator bracket above the left thermostat housing is going to be where the head gasket would be leaking.

I was reading back at my dad’s notes about getting the correct clearance and I think there may have been a lot of on and off with those 3 head bolts.

Will head out to the shop and do the leak test in a few hours.
589759
 
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

So I’ve drained a little coolant out so the upper tank isn’t full, about an inch left above the cores, ran the motor up to temperature and did the leak test. Had it running for about 10 minutes until that temp gauge was at the top end of hot. The blue fluid in the tester stayed dark blue. No bubbles were present, in the coolant, at the end of the test.

It’s possible that when I saw the stream of bubbles the last time that it was the last air pocket being released. Right after shutting the motor down I used an infrared thermometer to take some measurements. Engine block between the heads and intake manifold was 200, heads were 190, intake manifold was 160s, chrome upper rad tubes were 150s, carb bowls were 135 rear and 140 front.

I might be dealing with a bad temp sensor or gauge.

https://youtu.be/rt4fhNYrLE8?is=SdAd-QI6TZKFgWd2
 
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

Found one that works, just need to see if it has the same threads to fit into the Fenton heads.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2905.jpg
    IMG_2905.jpg
    50.7 KB · Views: 102
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

I did some checking with Google AI, so you have to take everything with a grain of salt, but basically a Ford flathead V8 makes about 20 brake hp at idle, but because of the design, you cannot assume the typical 1/3 rule of heat going into the coolant, 1/3 going into the exhaust, and 1/3 being the brake hp generated. This is due to the fact that the exhaust gases pass through the block and heat up the coolant. We all understand this, so sort of working in reverse in terms how many Btu/hr were required to heat the coolant (assuming 5 gals in the system), from about 107F to 212F in 3 minutes, IIRC, that equated to about 115K Btu/hr. I’d have to go back and verify, but the point being made that to generate that much heat in that short amount of time, there was really only two scenarios. Coolant flow is blocked somehow, or exhaust gases are escaping through the head gasket.
 
Last edited:
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

I know I'm comming in late but how many miles do you think are on this engine? What I'm getteing at is my ECM ran hot and not all that smooth for about 1200 or so miles . Then things started smothing out and running cooler. How far did they bore it out? I dont know if the same holds true on our flatheads but on Windser engines the farther you bore them out the hotter the tend to get. Also , You may have a a n over active temp gauge My 41 GMC runs at the top but when checked its 180* Tim
 
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

So I’ve found another photo of the engine out and with the heads off I don’t see any valves or piston heads behind the plastic sheeting covering the openings. If that means the pistons came out then it most likely was bored at least smoothed up before reinstalling everything.

The engine may only have 100-150 miles since then as it only was from trailer to show then back. Only street driven around the block with as far as I can tell only two trips of 20 or so miles.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2868.jpg
    IMG_2868.jpg
    63.5 KB · Views: 63
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

Sorry if this was mentioned before, but be sure to keep the coolant just above the tubes in the radiator, not a full tank, and, my 8BA ran cooler with 180 stats than it did with 160s. Mine also seemed to run some cooler after a few hundred miles.
 
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

You might want to try using special head bolts that have a threaded stud on top to permit separate tightning of the alternator bracket. I used one of these when I installed a modified oil filter canister on the MCF heads on my 8BA. I first installed the stud and torqued it to head bolt specs. Then I was able to bolt the oil canister to the extended stud without worrying about head bolt torque. Put sealant on the stud.

If the threaded stud on top of the hex head is too short for your alternator bracket you could double nut it and extend it with another threaded stud. Use High strength thread locker.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_4838b.jpg
    IMG_4838b.jpg
    39.7 KB · Views: 63
  • IMG_5722b.jpg
    IMG_5722b.jpg
    83.4 KB · Views: 56
Last edited:
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

So I’ve found another photo of the engine out and with the heads off I don’t see any valves or piston heads behind the plastic sheeting covering the openings. If that means the pistons came out then it most likely was bored at least smoothed up before reinstalling everything.

The engine may only have 100-150 miles since then as it only was from trailer to show then back. Only street driven around the block with as far as I can tell only two trips of 20 or so miles.
589839
 
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

You might want to try using special head bolts that have a threaded stud on top to permit separate tightning of the alternator bracket. I used one of these when I installed a modified oil filter canister on the MCF heads on my 8BA. I first installed the stud and torqued it to head bolt specs. Then I was able to bolt the oil canister to the extended stud without worrying about head bolt torque. Put sealant on the stud.

If the threaded stud on top of the hex head is too short for your alternator bracket you could double nut it and extend it with another threaded stud. Use High strength thread locker.
589842


589843
 
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

Sorry if this was mentioned before, but be sure to keep the coolant just above the tubes in the radiator, not a full tank, and, my 8BA ran cooler with 180 stats than it did with 160s. Mine also seemed to run some cooler after a few hundred miles.

Few hundred miles in 15 years. I definitely need to let it run 2-3 times a month.

I have the level of the coolant right around 1/2 inch off the tubes now.

It is difficult to any real amount of miles on the car because of the ground clearance and Texas roads are terrible.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_9045.jpg
    IMG_9045.jpg
    17.6 KB · Views: 11
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

How many rows of tubes does the radiator have?
I can’t say if it applies to your problem but when I put a 49 Mercury engine into the flea market truck it had an overheating problem on hills on one bank only.
I had also split the exhaust and used a new muffler from Mustang with V8 on one side.
It turned out that the mustang muffler didn’t flow enough and installing a matching truck muffler fixed it ( and it sounded great in a tunnel as the factory 1-1/2 ton truck muffler is straight through)
 
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

Radiator is 4 rows deep.

Just installed the other temp sensor and gauge in the front port of the same head as the one that goes to the dash.

The last notch on the old gauge reads right at 200 on the one I tested last night.

When the old gauge is at its max, and when I stopped the engine, it is at 230.

At the end of the test I looked in the rad and could see some bubbles so I was able to do another head gasket leak test and this one was not a failure but instead the coolant was boiling and the bubbles were again steam which separated the dye in the fluid causing it to turn clear as the dye was pulled up the test tube.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_2913.jpg
    IMG_2913.jpg
    32.7 KB · Views: 4
  • IMG_2915.jpg
    IMG_2915.jpg
    56.8 KB · Views: 5
  • IMG_2931.jpg
    IMG_2931.jpg
    42.6 KB · Views: 6
  • IMG_2918.jpg
    IMG_2918.jpg
    71.6 KB · Views: 7
Last edited:
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

Has it been verified that the water pumps are pumping?
Is it one bank overheating or both at same temperature?
Any floating debris that could be from mouse nest?
If you drain cool and below the core are all visible tubes open?
If you run your hands over the radiator fins do they all move?
 
Re: 53 8BA Flathead Running Hot – Looking for Cooling Advice

I think my next test should be trying to get a smaller fan pulley to speed up the fan rpm and pull more air through the rad at lower engine rpm.
 
Back
Top