Engine Block Stud Dilemma

T

TMB

Member
Purchased 1929 Murray Town Sedan 2008. Engine has performed fine without any issues. This year I noticed weeping at head gasket with radiator spray going uphills. Began the work to change head gasket.
for the first time I noticed the stud at No 1 is not like the rest - is a 3½in - 1/2in N13 bolt with washer. Once head removed I could see the No.1 hole in the head was tapped for 1/2in N13 threads. The No.1 stud location in the engine block also tapped for same bolt going into the water jacket. I seemed to have gotten away with this shade tree application the past 17 years.

Yikes. What did I get myself into? Do I simply replace the 1/2in bolt with a new one or is it time to do this correctly if even possible? Any advice would be appreciated.
 

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  • 1. Model A block head removed.jpg
    1. Model A block head removed.jpg
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  • 2. 3 ½ in 1:2in bolt removed from No 1.jpg
    2. 3 ½ in 1:2in bolt removed from No 1.jpg
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  • 3. No 1 w 12in N13 bolt.jpg
    3. No 1 w 12in N13 bolt.jpg
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  • 4. ½ in bolt through head_top.jpg
    4. ½ in bolt through head_top.jpg
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  • 5. ½ in bolt through head_flat side.jpg
    5. ½ in bolt through head_flat side.jpg
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  • 6. 1:2in N13 threads in No.1 location on head.jpg
    6. 1:2in N13 threads in No.1 location on head.jpg
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  • 7. Threads seen No.1 stud_engine block.jpg
    7. Threads seen No.1 stud_engine block.jpg
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  • 8. No.1 threaded open to water jacket.jpg
    8. No.1 threaded open to water jacket.jpg
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  • Original engine.jpg
    Original engine.jpg
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Doesn’t Brattons sell a stud where the bottom is threaded for 1/2” but the rest is stock? I wonder if you could replace the head with one that hadn’t been bored out, use the special stud, and just put everything back together.
 
TMB said:
Purchased 1929 Murray Town Sedan 2008. Engine has performed fine without any issues. This year I noticed weeping at head gasket with radiator spray going uphills. Began the work to change head gasket.
for the first time I noticed the stud at No 1 is not like the rest - is a 3½in - 1/2in N13 bolt with washer. Once head removed I could see the No.1 hole in the head was tapped for 1/2in N13 threads. The No.1 stud location in the engine block also tapped for same bolt going into the water jacket. I seemed to have gotten away with this shade tree application the past 17 years.

Yikes. What did I get myself into? Do I simply replace the 1/2in bolt with a new one or is it time to do this correctly if even possible? Any advice would be appreciated.
Click to expand...

Bratton's sells oversized head studs. https://www.brattons.com/OVER-SIZE-THREAD-3-1_2-LONG-STUD/productinfo/8170/
 
That is a common fix for a stripped stud. I am not sure where, but you can buy a stud that has the larger treads at the bottom and the normal threads at the top. I would just buy the stepped stud and not try any other fix. Use a sealer where it goes into the water jacket, like Permatex 2. The larger hole in the head will not hurt anything.

I see other people type faster than I do.
 
You have helped reduce my panic. I am concerned the threads created in the head at No. 1 plus the block will interfere with proper torch. There shouldn't be threads in the head correct? I will look into the studs at Bratton's. Thanks for the advice.
 
TMB said:
There shouldn't be threads in the head correct? I will look into the studs at Bratton's. Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...

Correct, that's why I suggested replacing the head. If you just want an original head, you can likely get one for free by asking around at nearby clubs. Someone probably swapped one for a high compression head and just has it sitting around.
 
It appears the oversized stud threads may clear the head. If not, I will pursue the club head suggestion. Thank for the advice.
 
In my opinion, the larger hole and threads in the head will not hurt anything. If you want to replace the head, I recommend the 5.5 head at Snyders. That head has a well designed combustion chamber.
 
TMB said:
You have helped reduce my panic. I am concerned the threads created in the head at No. 1 plus the block will interfere with proper torch. There shouldn't be threads in the head correct? I will look into the studs at Bratton's. Thanks for the advice.
Click to expand...

If your referring to the thread marks in photo #6 ? I wouldn’t worry about the marks ( it doesn’t look to be thread all the way through the head ) if you have the $ a new higher compression head will make you happy ! Your car will like the higher compression !
 
All those years....it will be fine. Just replace the bolt with a new one (grade 5 at least - has 3 marks). Sealer..... new gasket. Enjoy the car.
 
The difference between “fix it the right way” and “fix it the wrong way and let the next owner sort it out” is probably zero effort and $10, and guys are enthusiastically jumping into the thread on the side of saving $10. I see why vendors are going under.
 
Thanks all for the experienced input everyone. I don't want to kick the can down the road for someone else. Most of us got into this hobby to preserve something special. The experts are getting more difficult for us newbies to find as time advances. That's what makes this blog so essential for keeping these vehicles going another 96 years. Waiting for my oversized stud from Bratton's. $12.50 for the bolt and $16 for shipping. Appreciate all the recommendations.
 
TMB, And thank you for bringing up this subject. We all learn from each other and from the questions posed.
 
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