When I set out to "Butlerize" my bright newly-plated parts I did not really have a good example of how much I should knock down the brightness. I did not have really good originals to work from: my gearshift and e-brake handle had been painted black to hide the chipping plating and rust spots, and the instrument panel was likewise flaking. So I made a decision that I would knock off enough sheen to be noticable, and take it farther if I didn't like it.
I also had to decide how to do it. Light fine wire wheel, rotary wheel, what? I got a clue from the RG&JS that the striations on the shift lever were circumferential (not long axis), which indicated to me that the "Butler" finish was likely applied by hand using some sort of abrasive sheet. Brent in 10-uh-C clinched it in a post some months ago when he described how he does it with gray Scotchbrite pads and light oil (as he describes above). So I decided that's what I'd do.
I think I used the Norton honing oil that I use on my oilstones for sharpening chisels, but I believe any light oil (say 3-in-1, Triflow, etc.) would work just as well. I used new gray Scotchbrite to be sure there wasn't anything imbedded in the matrix that might scratch the new work.
Attached are some photos of how it turned out. Note that the hand grip area of the e-brake lever, and the cup for the shift lever, are still bright, while the other parts have been treated. I'm pleased with the way they turned out.
I still need to replate the door handles, window cranks, escutcheons, and a bunch of other small parts. Cost-wise, I think I'm going to try doing them at home rather than send them out.
And wrndln, I did the instrument panel so the grain runs horizontal. Not sure why other than it seemed logical to me, I don't think I found a reference.
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