Front wheel will not spin

47topless

47topless

Well-known member
I am new to Model A's so forgive my ignorance. I am also totally new to mechanical brakes. In order to lube the front end, I recently placed my '31 Vickie on jack stands and removed the wheels. The left front drum will spin freely but the front right drum will not. I have driven this car, once around the block, and did not notice the front right wheel dragging or the like.
Am I missing something? I am unable to remove the right drum because the brakes seem to be engaged. Where should I start?
Thank you,
Phil
 
If you put the jack stands under the frame the front axle is probably hanging down and applying the brake. Put the stand under the axle.
 
Try turning your brake adjustment on the back of the wheel all the way and see if the brakes release. Take the wheel off and check things out and put back together and then readjust the brakes and see if your problem is gone.
 
Ditto on moving the brake adjustment.

Diagram at https://www.mikes-afordable.com/blog/?cat=6 (Mike won't mind I'm sure.)

Part A2041 is the adjustment wedge. Back this all the way out.

Remove Clevis on Brake Actuator rod by removing the pin. (A2466 at top of drawing)

Hit the actuating lever "forward" with a hammer.

You may loosen up everything enough to get the brake drum off. I expect the drum is "rusted" to the shoes.

Try tapping lightly with a hammer around the circumference of the brake drum.

Joe K
 
Thank you for all the great responses to my problem. The tech drawings are wonderful.
The floor jacks are under the frame. I used my floor jack to take the pressure off the right axle but that did not make any difference.
The shoe adjustment wedge, A2041 will not turn in either direction. I am using a wrench as I do not have the specific tool for this operation.
Removing the clevis on the actuator rod did not "release the shoes.
The bearing looks to be adjusted properly.
I need to get the drum off. will loosening the lower shoe anchor, parts A2023 and A2045 relive the tension on the shoes and allow me to get the drum off?
Thanks again.
Phil
 
A2023 are the shoe rollers - one on each side of the brake shoe. A2045 is the pin they rotate on.

You can't access these until you get the drum off.

You can start disassembly "easy" by unbolting the brake actuating shaft from the spring perch. With this unbolted, you can remove the actuating shaft housing from the top of the king-pin (half sphere at top)

Inside the half-sphere you should find the actuating "pin." Check that this is "loose." With a pair of forceps or needle nose pliers you may be able to "pick it up" within the half sphere (you can't remove it.) If it moves this is a good sign. Try dropping a good squirt of PB Blaster down alongside the actuating pin. This will saturate the lower "wedge" and possibly loosen everything up, including the four rollers and the two pins they rotate on. Let it sit like that overnight.

If that doesn't loosen things up - repeat the tapping exercise on the drum external. Maybe get a little more "enthusiastic" this time?

Have your wheel hub retaining nut and washer, OFF and the outer (small) bearing removed (you'll need a small screwdriver to pull it out of the hub) before tapping.

What may have happened is your brake shoes may have worn "tracks" in the brake drum. A "ledge" may be keeping the drum "over" the shoes preventing removal.

Running out of ideas here. Best would be for the drum to be OFF before any more disassembly/loosening up.

You can buy a "long nut" the same thread as the axle nuts. This extends the shaft beyond the perimeter of the hub center and allows you some purchase with a hammer to "knock" the spindle out of the hub.

Joe K
 
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I have had frozen adjustment shafts on occasion. I've generally squirted a bit of penetrating oil onto the threads and let it sit overnight. Tiny bit of very focused heat may help. Then rock the shaft back and forth. Once you get any movement, a bit more penetrating oil and continue back and forth rocking until you can back the shaft out (counterclockwise).

Worst one I ever had was a set of shoes irreversibly frozen to the drum by rust and mud. Could not get anything to budge. Had to cut the drum off with a cutoff wheel to expose the internals, then it was straightforward.
 
Good ideas. I have tried PB Blaster but maybe not in the right place and maybe not enough. We'll have another go at it tomorrow. A suggested, it may be time for a bigger hammer!
Thank you guys so much.
 
I don't see where you're located but the best advice is find a local "A" club, join and you'll get plenty of help. LRF
 
I spoke of a "long nut" (Technically a "coupling nut") for use in slugging the spindle from the hub.

The front spindles are 3/4-16 thread which is UNF (fine thread)

The rear spindles are 5/8-18 UNF.

"Rear hub knock off tool." You screw this on the rear spindle until it "bottoms out" and then you give it a slug and it removes the hub from the rear axle shaft taper. Well, that's the theory.

There were two of these in my Dad's stuff - the second knock off tool is smaller. At one point I asked on the forum what this second might be used for and wasn't getting an answer.

Now I think I know. (3/4-16?) I'll check. But not tonight.

The common "big box" stores don't seem to carry coupling nuts in fine thread, but your lived experience may vary. You'll also want a bolt to screw in the open end to "back-up" the coupling nut and prevent deforming the spindle thread (i.e. screw in to "bottom out.")

As Dad said "The best tools are none too good." You'll buy this and probably use it once more in your life. But having the capability is 3/4 of the battle.

Joe K
 
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As everyone has said, either the brake adjustment needs to be backed off or the brake is hanging up.

The vendors sell a special wrench to adjust the brakes which may help move a frozen adjuster. You could try backing off the wheel bearing and rocking the drum to try and release it. The shoes will **** and lock up the drum if you try and pull it off with the shoes in contact with the drum. Heating the drum with a heat gun may help.
 
Have you joined the International Victoria Association?
 

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nkaminar said:
As everyone has said, either the brake adjustment needs to be backed off or the brake is hanging up.

The vendors sell a special wrench to adjust the brakes which may help move a frozen adjuster. You could try backing off the wheel bearing and rocking the drum to try and release it. The shoes will **** and lock up the drum if you try and pull it off with the shoes in contact with the drum. Heating the drum with a heat gun may help.
Click to expand...


This is what happened. I will try the heating the drum idea.
I will also try using more force on the adjusting wedge. I am so afraid of braking (no pun intended) it.
Thank you.
 
47topless said:
Good ideas. I have tried PB Blaster but maybe not in the right place and maybe not enough. We'll have another go at it tomorrow. A suggested, it may be time for a bigger hammer!
Thank you guys so much.
Click to expand...

Yes :-) , with a bigger hammer tapping on the end of the adjuster and a tight fitting tool ( possibly a big pair of vise grips) lots of PB blaster. How tight are s the drum ? Can you move it with a long bar ?
 
That would be "breaking it." It would seem that the adjuster may already be braking the drum.

The adjustment tool sold by the vendors is probably the right tool. Or a square socket wrench. New adjusters are available, so don't be afraid of breaking it. I have seen a car where the adjuster was rusted solid to the backing plate and nothing would make it move.
 
oldspert said:
Again, I'm glad I did not buy that car.
Ed
Click to expand...

Yes, probably a little out of your league.
I'm willing to learn and put in the time and expense to make this car a real jewel.
Thanks to everyone for their help with this problem and I'm sure I'll be back when something else comes up.
Phil
 
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