Shifter Suddenly Stiff

D

dalton

Member
While out driving my 29 Coupe, the shifter suddenly became stiff. As in the normal 'slop' when in neutral tightened up, and it's harder to get it into gear, like the path is more narrow? No other symptoms. I'm in Florida, so it's not likely due to cold weather. Shift tower was somewhat recently purchased. Forks were very good, and I installed a new shift lever. Detents were good, but not perfect.

Any ideas?
 
JayJay said:
I’d check clutch adjustment, too. Incomplete release would make it difficult to shift.
Click to expand...

I'll look at that too. It's got a V8 clutch/pressure plate with the same 250-ish miles on it.

Shifting through the gears is smooth, but it's the free play in the shift lever that has changed and become more restrictive.
 
There is usually a little slop between the six tower holes and their bolts that allows the housing to slightly move fore and aft on top of the transmission. Loosen all six bolts and shove the shift housing as far forward as you can and then re-tighten the bolts. In Mitchell's synchro ****** installation instructions, this procedure is recommended if stiff shifting is encountered. 'Might just work for standard Model A transmissions, too.
By the way, is it possible that the bolts loosened and the shift housing is moving on its own? That will affect shifting. If you notice only light resistance when you put a socket over the bolts, that might be the problem, especially since you stated that the shift tower installation was fairly recent.
Marshall
 
Marshall V. Daut said:
There is usually a little slop between the six tower holes and their bolts that allows the housing to slightly move fore and aft on top of the transmission. Loosen all six bolts and shove the shift housing as far forward as you can and then re-tighten the bolts. In Mitchell's synchro ****** installation instructions, this procedure is recommended if stiff shifting is encountered. 'Might just work for standard Model A transmissions, too.
By the way, is it possible that the bolts loosened and the shift housing is moving on its own? That will affect shifting. If you notice only light resistance when you put a socket over the bolts, that might be the problem, especially since you stated that the shift tower installation was fairly recent.
Marshall
Click to expand...

Thanks Marshall! This seems like it makes sense to me also.
 
It may be that something came apart, so perhaps you should drain the transmission oil and check it for something amiss.
 
The "new" shift levers are made in two pieces and "screwed" together around the ball area. Removing the shift tower SHOULD reveal all - and not hard to do once you get past the Emergency Brake connections and the six bolts.

With the top off of course you can check the two "sliding gears" too.

Joe K
 
Bob Bidonde said:
It may be that something came apart, so perhaps you should drain the transmission oil and check it for something amiss.
Click to expand...

Thanks Bob

Joe K said:
The "new" shift levers are made in two pieces and "screwed" together around the ball area. Removing the shift tower SHOULD reveal all - and not hard to do once you get past the Emergency Brake connections and the six bolts.

With the top off of course you can check the two "sliding gears" too.

Joe K
Click to expand...

Thanks Joe
 
OK Guys, thanks for your responses, this place is a great community!

After checking it hadn't slipped backward, I took the tower off. fluid was slightly low, so I added a little bit. Transmission gears all seem to be fine(everything is sliding around as it should. I did seem to find a tiny bit of shiny bits in the oil clinging to the 2nd/3rd shift shaft. Cleaned it all up and it's still a little stiff in the 2nd/3rd side, but definitely better.

I think I will let this go for a bit as I have a 34 transmission and have been looking for an excuse to put it in. I'll be using the Cling's kit!
 
The "shifter rails" could definitely be causing your problem.

On each side of the transmission top you'll see the small "slotted plug" which when removed gives access to the shifter rail "detent." I say gives access. Only if the shifter rails are removed.

You don't have to take out the shift lever - saves having to mess with that spring and retainer which if you're not careful can end up in your forehead.

Using a small straight punch, you can tap the fork keeper rivets out. With the rivets removed the shifter rails can be backed out of the front of the transmission top.

Once the shifter rails are removed, you can remove a slotted plug and the detent/spring/detent assembly will come out the hole.

Keep track of which is the right shifter rail and which is the left - you'll want to restore each back to their specific location. A-7240 (Low & Reverse, i.e. the RH shifter rail in the case) A-7241 (High & Intermediate i.e. the LH shifter rail) I haven't found a good picture so I can't show you the specific shaft for specific location.

It is possible these are "reversed." This could be detrimental to getting the transmission in a "full gear."

What I think may be happening is the "detents" (i.e. commonly called "pills" aka A-7233-A 2 required) are wearing at their juncture to the notches in the shift rails. The originals detents are hardened, but reproductions may be lesser quality. Called a "brinnell failure" as literal "shards" of metal are wiped off the detent at the mating surface.

Which may be ending up obstructing your shifter rails.

Just a speculation - and a confirmation to myself that the two shifter rails are indeed "different." (I.e. different part number)

I have a 2" "c-clamp" which I have modified by removing the swivel pad, and then grinding the swivel ball underneath to a "cone." On assembly, when clamped around the rivet in place, it "peins over" the end of the hollow pin and restores it to non-removable condition.

Joe K
 
Last edited:
Joe K said:
The "shifter rails" could definitely be causing your problem.

On each side of the transmission top you'll see the small "slotted plug" which when removed gives access to the shifter rail "detent." I say gives access. Only if the shifter rails are removed.

You don't have to take out the shift lever - saves having to mess with that spring and retainer which if you're not careful can end up in your forehead.

Using a small straight punch, you can tap the fork keeper rivets out. With the rivets removed the shifter rails can be backed out of the front of the transmission top.

Once the shifter rails are removed, you can remove a slotted plug and the detent/spring/detent assembly will come out the hole.

Keep track of which is the right shifter rail and which is the left - you'll want to restore each back to their specific location. A-7240 (Low & Reverse, i.e. the RH shifter rail in the case) A-7241 (High & Intermediate i.e. the LH shifter rail) I haven't found a good picture so I can't show you the specific shaft for specific location.

It is possible these are "reversed." This could be detrimental to getting the transmission in a "full gear."

What I think may be happening is the "detents" (i.e. commonly called "pills" aka A-7233-A 2 required) are wearing at their juncture to the notches in the shift rails. The originals detents are hardened, but reproductions may be lesser quality. Called a "brinnell failure" as literal "shards" of metal are wiped off the detent at the mating surface.

Which may be ending up obstructing your shifter rails.

Just a speculation - and a confirmation to myself that the two shifter rails are indeed "different." (I.e. different part number)

I have a 2" "c-clamp" which I have modified by removing the swivel pad, and then grinding the swivel ball underneath to a "cone." On assembly, when clamped around the rivet in place, it "peins over" the end of the hollow pin and restores it to non-removable condition.

Joe K
Click to expand...

Joe, wow!

I think you are spot on regarding the ‘pills’. The little bits of sparkle I found were around the shift rail of 2nd/3rd gear. That is the side that is now hanging up only slightly after cleaning the rail looking for problems by flooding it with WD40 where the detents and spring are. Those tiny bits of metal would easily cause a rail to bind up.

I’ll order the rivets and modify a c-clamp as you have. I think I have some old pills that may be harder in another shift tower.

Thanks for taking your time to help me with this. It may postpone the “new” 34 trans install!
 
You won't miss the partial syncro.

Part of the charm of driving a Model A is the "idiosyncrasies."

I'm still looking for a drawing showing the difference between the LH shifter rail and the RH shifter rail. I've seen it SOMEWHERE. As I say, they're easy to swap left-right - which will totally screw up shifting.

Joe K
 
I'm still looking for a drawing showing the difference between the LH shifter rail and the RH shifter rail. I've seen it SOMEWHERE. As I say, they're easy to swap left-right - which will totally screw up shifting.
Click to expand...
Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook by Les Andrews has a pix of the shifter rails as a blow out assembly.

The shifter rail with three notches SPREAD WIDE goes on the passenger side. The shifter rail with three notches NARROW/WIDE goes on the drivers side. On both, the "oil groove" is placed "down."

Another something I had forgotten. There is a single slotted plug accessing the detent/spring unit. On "AR" Model A transmission top the single plug is on the PASSENGER SIDE. On all other later Model A transmission tops, the single plug is on the DRIVER SIDE.

Later Ford transmissions had a plug on each side.

An assembly anomaly you may find: you want to have passenger side shifter rail IN POSITION and then held by its detent in one of the notches. Then you have room to insert the spring, and the drivers side rail detent and room to push in the drivers side rail detent to insert the drivers shifter rail.

It only goes together this way. Ford designed the detent/spring so that only one of the detents can be "pushed in" at a time. (to prevent both shifter rails moving simultaneously)

Joe K
 
Last edited:
Does anyone else find disassembling the shifter to be the dirtiest job on a model a? I did a few recently and man was I covered in black greasy goo. It made using the spring tool pretty difficult. Ha
 
Harpkatt said:
Does anyone else find disassembling the shifter to be the dirtiest job on a model a? I did a few recently and man was I covered in black greasy goo. It made using the spring tool pretty difficult. Ha
Click to expand...

Right up there with cleaning out the rear axle housings.
 
Joe K said:
Model A Ford Mechanics Handbook by Les Andrews has a pix of the shifter rails as a blow out assembly.

The shifter rail with three notches SPREAD WIDE goes on the passenger side. The shifter rail with three notches NARROW/WIDE goes on the drivers side. On both, the "oil groove" is placed "down."

Another something I had forgotten. There is a single slotted plug accessing the detent/spring unit. On "AR" Model A transmission top the single plug is on the PASSENGER SIDE. On all other later Model A transmission tops, the single plug is on the DRIVER SIDE.

Later Ford transmissions had a plug on each side.

An assembly anomaly you may find: you want to have passenger side shifter rail IN POSITION and then held by its detent in one of the notches. Then you have room to insert the spring, and the drivers side rail detent and room to push in the drivers side rail detent to insert the drivers shifter rail.

It only goes together this way. Ford designed the detent/spring so that only one of the detents can be "pushed in" at a time. (to prevent both shifter rails moving simultaneously)

Joe K
Click to expand...

Yes! Mine worked well for a short period, then quickly gave up. This info is very helpful. Thank you
 
"While out driving my 29 Coupe, the shifter suddenly became stiff."

Commonly known as the Viagra effect.
 
nkaminar said:
"While out driving my 29 Coupe, the shifter suddenly became stiff."

Commonly known as the Viagra effect.
Click to expand...

Shortly after I got the Avatar, Dad showed me the "swing away shifter."

He says "Comes in mighty handy when you have your girlfriend in the passenger seat."

That was a rare moment of candor from Dad - who was pretty tightly wrapped otherwise.

Joe K
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top