Leakless water pumps... is it me?

Kube

Kube

Super Moderator
Staff member
Guys, two so called leakless pumps installed within the past four weeks. The first one went about 15 miles. This last one? Not even five miles. This one allowed the fan to move a bit into the radiator.
I can't believe it's simply bad luck to get two crap pumps in a row.
 
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We need more information. Rebuilt pumps? New pumps from a known name dealer? Both pumps from the same place? When you say they failed, what do you mean? Started leaking around the packing nut/bronze bushing? Dripped or GUSHED? What did the supplier say when consulted?
 
bobbader said:
We need more information. Rebuilt pumps? New pumps from a known name dealer? Both pumps from the same place? When you say they failed, what do you mean? Started leaking around the packing nut/bronze bushing? Dripped or GUSHED? What did the supplier say when consulted?
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Both brand new supplied by Mikes Affordable. First one was reluctantly replaced.
First one leaked at packing nut. More than dripping.
The second one poured at packing and allowed the fan to move forward enough to clip the radiator.
 
I've rebuilt my own using new parts and the bushing with the rubber seal. The most difficult part was placing the impeller on a new stainless shaft in proper location. I always use the safety collar that controls the end play of the shaft. Most of the cylinder heads are too worn back inside the pump mounting area that was originally what set the end play.

Some shafts in the past had the wrong taper on the fan end so I look for the good ones which can be a bit more work getting the impeller right but it's worth it. I'm currently running one of the cast aluminum reproduction 2-blade fans from Snyder's back when they were available. It fit well. I still have a packing in the pump so if the rubber seal leaks I can tighten the packing up. I've not tried an all new pump yet. They have all sorts of different bearing configurations so I pretty much stick with the OEM bearing and bushing set up.
 
rotorwrench said:
I've rebuilt my own using new parts and the bushing with the rubber seal. The most difficult part was placing the impeller on a new stainless shaft in proper location. I always use the safety collar that controls the end play of the shaft. Most of the cylinder heads are too worn back inside the pump mounting area that was originally what set the end play.

Some shafts in the past had the wrong taper on the fan end so I look for the good ones which can be a bit more work getting the impeller right but it's worth it. I'm currently running one of the cast aluminum reproduction 2-blade fans from Snyder's back when they were available. It fit well. I still have a packing in the pump so if the rubber seal leaks I can tighten the packing up. I've not tried an all new pump yet. They have all sorts of different bearing configurations so I pretty much stick with the OEM bearing and bushing set up.
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I will rebuild two authentic pumps in the very near future.
I am a tad upset as the second pump, with a four-blade fan requires me to once again remove the headlamps, grille, hood, radiator, etc.
Not to mention the fact that I had the radiator rebuilt when I'd installed the first "NO LEAK" pump. When the fan shifted a tad forward it bit into the core.
 
Kube said:
I will rebuild two authentic pumps in the very near future.
I am a tad upset as the second pump, with a four-blade fan requires me to once again remove the headlamps, grille, hood, radiator, etc.
Not to mention the fact that I had the radiator rebuilt when I'd installed the first "NO LEAK" pump. When the fan shifted a tad forward it bit into the core.
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You can avoid having to mess with the radiator if you
  1. Replace the water pump mounting studs with cap screws. The parts suppliers have cap screws that look like studs if you are particular.
  2. Replace the four blade fan with a two blade fan.
 
JayJay said:
You can avoid having to mess with the radiator if you
  1. Replace the water pump mounting studs with cap screws. The parts suppliers have cap screws that look like studs if you are particular.
  2. Replace the four blade fan with a two blade fan.
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Good advice.
 
Remove the 4 pump mounting studs that go into the block and tack weld the nuts to the studs or buy A-8501-MBM studs. Removing the 4 studs will allow removing the pump without moving the radiator.
The leakless pumps do not require tightening the packing nut and do not apply any grease. Stay with using the 2 bladed fan and make certain there is no interference between front end of the pump casting that goes inside the pulley and the pulley. If there is then the front end of the pump casting has to be sanded down. All the leakless pumps that I have installed have worked without any leaks.
 
Well that just sucks , two new leakless pumps leaking, have you checked the radiator overflow tube to be free flowing and not allowing the system to be pressurized ?

I’ve wondered about the wording ( leakless ) , should it be ( leaks-less) , it doesn’t say never-leaks , a shaft sealed by O-rings will leak at some time , with in minutes isn’t right maybe when assembled the O-rings got cut ?!

Years ago I rebuilt my pump with leak less parts and with the original type packing, after a few years it started leaking so with the engine running I snugged the packing nut up ! When I noticed it leaking I was under the car and I heard dripping ? just all of a sudden. I ran a solid #12 copper wire through the overflow tube and some muddy crap was removed
 
Years ago I got the parts removed from an original pump housing being sent away to be converted to “leakless “. really nice old production shaft —- his leakless pump has been replaced 2 times, my original pump is leaking less and less.
the stainless shaft pumps didn’t last as good.
 
Like many others here, I have always rebuilt my own "leakless" pumps. They are not hard to rebuild. I've never had one leak more than a drop or two occasionally. It's one of the few Model "A" upgrades I enthusiastically recommend. I always pin the impeller to the shaft as years ago a fellow club member had one come loose and destroy his radiator. I also use the sealed front bearing, but that is a matter of personal choice.
 
Still wondering if anyone else had a similar issue with the so called leakless pumps.
Lots of responses that I thank you guys for. However, only one response that addressed my inquiry.
 
A very few years ago, I considered producing my version of a leakless water pump in numbers and sending them over there. They have a ball bearing front and back and a ceramic seal. There is only a few thousands of an inch end play. NOTHING rubs on the shaft to cause wear so they should last a very long time. The most miles I have done on one of them is 60,000 miles and it's still going strong.
I have since realised that I would be inviting ruin to try to sell them over there partly because they would be considered "foreign made". If tariffs are imposed as promised, I'd have to be silly..
 
I have installed a number of leak less water pumps over the years. It normally would be one of the first things that I would do.

I have “never” had one leak more than a drop or two. And that would be rare at best.

I have also not had a problem buying or returning parts purchased from Mike’s. They refunded me on one a part that I really didn’t think they would.

Good luck.
 
WHN said:
I have installed a number of leak less water pumps over the years. It normally would be one of the first things that I would do.

I have “never” had one leak more than a drop or two. And that would be rare at best.

I have also not had a problem buying or returning parts purchased from Mike’s. They refunded me on one a part that I really didn’t think they would.

Good luck.
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Thank you WHN. Perhaps the current quality (lack of) is not what it was when you'd installed yours.
Getting a replacement pump from Mike's is not the primary issue. They replaced the first defective pump. Of course, I had to pay shipping both ways for a defective part sent to me.
The primary issue is all of my labor and the newly rebuilt radiator that the fan clipped when this latest pump shifted.
 
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