46 Ford Banjo Rear End Torque Specs

J

Jacobs1946

Junior Member
Hi, does anyone know the torque specs on the 9/16 bolts that hold the banjo together and the 9/16 bolts that hold the torque tube on the rear. I cant seem to find the information anywhere. Thank you!
 
I don't think there are any torque specs available for those bolts.
When I bolted my torque tube to the 40 rear I just made sure they felt tight without forcing them. I also numbered each bolt location and made sure the same bolt went back into the same threaded hole it came out of. I would also do the same with the banjo bolts. May be a bit anal but, you never know when it comes to getting those bolts "right".

The original safety wire is in the right photo.
 

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19Fordy said:
I don't think there are any torque specs available for those bolts.
When I bolted my torque tube to the 40 rear I just made sure they felt tight without forcing them. I also numbered each bolt location and made sure the same bolt went back into the same threaded hole it came out of. I would also do the same with the banjo bolts. May be a bit anal but, you never know when it comes to getting those bolts "right".

The original safety wire is in the right photo.
Click to expand...

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Apologies! Yes! I should have said 9/16 heads on the bolts! I may just torque them to about 25 - 30 foot pounds and then use the lacing wire on the torque tube. Let me now if you think that's a bad idea
 
I would not put a torque value on them at all. They are interference spec, if I have the lingo right, which would likely not lend a true torque reading anyway. They should be too tight to thread by fingers alone, and on final assembly should be installed with thread sealer to prevent seepage of the differential oil. The quantity of bolts together with the quality of the gaskets will snug sufficiently tight to prevent seepage at the perimeter, so just cinch them snug zig zag, then once again zig zag, cinch them tighter, using nothing longer than a standard box wrench. Trust me, you don’t need to muscle them any more than that.
 
ford38v8 hit a homerun. In this case the torque wrench is not your friend.
"The quantity of bolts together with the quality of the gaskets will snug sufficiently tight to prevent seepage at the perimeter, so just cinch them snug zig zag, then once again zig zag, cinch them tighter, using nothing longer than a standard box wrench."
 
A torque wrench was not a common mechanic tool back then, oil pan bolts were snug, the banjo bolts were tight, the axle nuts were “ good and tight”—- put a pipe on the wrench
 
Kurt in NJ said:
A torque wrench was not a common mechanic tool back then, oil pan bolts were snug, the banjo bolts were tight, the axle nuts were “ good and tight”—- put a pipe on the wrench
Click to expand...

You bring up old memories about oil pan bolts! I learned that one the hard way as a youngster with a stovebolt oil pan removed a second time to straighten the crushed rim!
 
if in doubt about bolt torques ive found the go to are the old [80s/90s] Cummins diesel manuals they have a whole section that is devoted to just that [bolt size \pitch ,tpi and rating g3/5/8. even down to cast-iron steel or alloy material
 
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