New project that should be fun

Kube, I can not stress enough the value of joining your local Model-A chapter. If you do, you will always have a friend to call and come over and explain things to you.
 
The older cars are easier to work on than those years just before the war. They are more simplistic and a lot of fun to bebop around in. The better your parts are the easier the job will be. It will open up a new part of the Ford world for you and expand your knowledge base for sure. Break a leg on your old fliver project.
 
rotorwrench said:
The older cars are easier to work on than those years just before the war. They are more simplistic and a lot of fun to bebop around in. The better your parts are the easier the job will be. It will open up a new part of the Ford world for you and expand your knowledge base for sure. Break a leg on your old fliver project.
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I believe I have it ready to fire up. Rebuilt the distributor and carburetor. Mounted a clean auxiliary fuel tank so I may be certain fuel is clean and flows properly.
Cleaned and gapped plugs. New wiring from instrument panel to engine, um, what little there is of a "harness".
Cleaned connections at starter very well. Strong battery.

Didn't check compression but can hear all four cylinders "huffing" when I turned engine over manually.

All linkages move freely.

So, gurus... what might I be missing here?

Wanna try later today. Fingers crossed :)
 
- Make sure the spark advance and throttle levers on the steering column are all the way in the up position.

- With the key on, step on the starter and while the engine is turning over, pull the choke rod out for just a split second and then push it back all the way in. The engine should start at that point. If you leave the choke pulled out for too long while the engine is turning over it will flood it.
 
Chuck Dempsey said:
Great looking truck. Would the spare tire lock have been standard equipment back in the day?
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Yes, standard equipment on the pickup trucks in 1940. My gosh you have good eyesight!

On the '40 passenger cars, it was a dealer available accessory.
 
mcgarrett said:
- Make sure the spark advance and throttle levers on the steering column are all the way in the up position.

- With the key on, step on the starter and while the engine is turning over, pull the choke rod out for just a split second and then push it back all the way in. The engine should start at that point. If you leave the choke pulled out for too long while the engine is turning over it will flood it.
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Thanks much!

Why I am so nervous about this?
 
A person can get a download copy of the owners manual with starting procedures. Set GAV to nominal by turning the choke knob with idle screw at nominal. It should start.

Sticking valves are common on engines that have set a while. If it was pushing air out of all four then it should be good. I usually prime the oil system by pouring a quart down through the distributor drive bore. This will preoil the cam bearings and main bearings. Disregard if you've already done that.
 
Since it has been sitting up a long time, do not run the engine very long without dropping the pan to clean out the dirt and "surprises" that may be there.

Juice brakes are over-rated. Put that money toward making the mechanicals perfect.
Cast iron drums, arced woven linings and NO wear or slop in the linkages.
Easy to maintain and equal stopping power.
 
I agree on the brakes. If the mechanical types are set up properly, they work every bit as good as Lockheed hydraulic types. A person doesn't have to worry about servicing the brake fluid or corrosion in the master & wheel cylinders. These cars can set up a long time without the need to replace old rubber parts. With a top speed around 65 and a cruise speed of 55 MPH, braking is not as big a concern as it is on faster and heavier cars. Owners choice though. Many have been converted.
 
Mornin' guys.
well, some success. The engine starts and putters. That's good news as it hasn't been run in over fifty years.
The isse?
Well, fuel is leaking directly from bottom of carburetor. I'd like to get that fixed prior to allowing the engine to run for any length of time (safety).
Any thoughts?
 
Hello guys... sorry to bother ya again.

Took the carburetor apart and could find nothing apparent (to me anyway) that is incorrect. Still, something must be as the fuel leaks from the air intake as soon as I open the tank valve.
Advice please...
 
I had the same problem. Purchased the gasoline level gauge and set the float at precisely 5/8". Stopped the leak back. Maybe your needle or seat is corroded. Good tool to have for adjusting float level
 
Brentwood and Oldspert,
I'll pull the carb back off and check these things once again. I'll report back ASAP.
Thanks men!
 
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