New project that should be fun

Kube

Kube

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Staff member
Hello folks. I am quite new to the A world.
I am beginning work on a project of sorts. I have two chassis' that have both been in long term storage. This chassis (in phots) has not been run since the mid 1960's.
The goal is to make one reliable "driver" pickup.
The photos attached are the first of the two chassis. This one will be used primarily for parts.
This will be kinda slow going due to my certain learning curve.
I'll try to post progress as it happens.
 

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Thanks guys. Ya know, I have restored seventeen cars prior to this project. All are trailer queens, the worst 997 points. Building a "driver" will be fun, well, for the most part. I expect frustrating moments :)
 
I that is the cab you are using then you need to make sure the chassis you
use has a 1930-31 front cross member so the hood will align with the cowl
and radiator shell.
 
for you, this will be easy. the exception might be keeping it a "driver" and not trying to make it too good.........
 
At this point early in the process, check the frame to see if it is straight. This will be critical in fitting the hood to the cowl.
 
Had some progress today I suppose. I want to get this engine running as it may ultimately be utilized.
Distributor was "goofed up". Straightened that out nicely.
It seems to me (not an A guy) that the cam on the top of the shaft is not keyed. I did my best to install it where the rotor lines up with #1. Yes? No?

I'll thank all of you guys in advance for putting up with what you guys surely will think of as stupid questions.
Thanks :)
 
Kube,
Don't forget to place the "timing pin" in the dimple in the cam gear first to confirm that you are at top dead center. Then adjust the points to .020 and index the rotor to where the points just begin to open as the tab on the rotor is just passing #1 contact on the distributor.

Follow the details in this link and you'll be right on:
http://www.modelabasics.com/Ignition.htm
 
mcgarrett said:
Kube,
Don't forget to place the "timing pin" in the dimple in the cam gear first to confirm that you are at top dead center. Then adjust the points to .020 and index the rotor to where the points just begin to open as the tab on the rotor is just passing #1 contact on the distributor.

Follow the details in this link and you'll be right on:
http://www.modelabasics.com/Ignition.htm
Click to expand...

Thank you. This makes the process make more sense to me.
 
What McGarrett said, plus be sure to turn the cam clockwise to take up any 'play' before determining the tighten point. The cam turns counter-clockwise, so should always be in the most clockwise edge of the 'play'. Hard to explain, but easier to see when you work on it....
 
mcgarrett said:
Kube,
Don't forget to place the "timing pin" in the dimple in the cam gear first to confirm that you are at top dead center. Then adjust the points to .020 and index the rotor to where the points just begin to open as the tab on the rotor is just passing #1 contact on the distributor.

Follow the details in this link and you'll be right on:
http://www.modelabasics.com/Ignition.htm
Click to expand...

Your link is very helpful in that now I have a better "picture" of what exactly I need to do.
Thanks much!
 
Oh yeah this is going to be good!!! Looking forward to this build! Kube, show them a picture of the 40 pickup you did.
 
31a said:
I decided a long time ago that they are no stupid questions keep them coming
Click to expand...

Thanks for making me feel a bit less ignorant.
I have a tendency to overthink things. Probably not a good thing when dealing with a car that at least to me seems fairly simplistic.
Still, this is so very different than anything I'd ever worked on, well, I am aware that there are many things I don't know that I don't know.

I promise to post as I progress. Unless you guys' tire of me...
 
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deuce5wndw said:
Oh yeah this is going to be good!!! Looking forward to this build! Kube, show them a picture of the 40 pickup you did.
Click to expand...

Looks as if I've been busted!
Deuce, please keep in mind the intention is build a driver, not a trailer queen.
That'll be a first for me :)
 

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I'm sure I'm going to take a lot of flak for this but so be it. Since you're going for a daily driver you might want to consider a hydraulic brake conversion along with 16 inch wires. JMO and let the flaming begin.
 
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