Gas shut off valve options

B

BVZ24

Member
Another young Model A owner and I are having the common gas shut off valve slow leak issue. We both have reproduction gas valves that were lapped with lapping compound and we both use pencil filters. I have a single old brass valve in my loose parts that is probably original. It leaks more than my reproduction valve when tested.

I'm finding that these valves will often leak if any dirt or rust ends up inside them, hence the pencil filter, and the repros leak unless lapped, which we did.

I found one forum that claimed that very few original valves are usable. I'm not aware if that was before or after rebuild.

What are the best replacement options? Is there any particular supplier that has a more reliable valve?
At this point we would both prefer a ball style valve, but it would have to be compatible with the existing fuel lines.
 
I replaced my leaky original with a new valve from Bert’s last week. It’s a very nice quality valve. Install was a breeze. Problem solved.
 
I have quite a few refurbished OEM valves from a well known restorers estate.
I am on the left coast. Same price as new replacements. Every body needs a spare.
 
Fix your leaky carburetor and lap the gas shutoff valve, then only turn the gas valve off for servicing your carburetor or cleaning gas filters. This is what I did and I didn’t turn the gas valve off, didn’t have a carburetor leak for over a year.
 
Big hammer said:
Fix your leaky carburetor and lap the gas shutoff valve, then only turn the gas valve off for servicing your carburetor or cleaning gas filters. This is what I did and I didn’t turn the gas valve off, didn’t have a carburetor leak for over a year.
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Not a good idea, IMO. Good way to drain your gas tank all over the floor.
 
Use EZ Turn, https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/cspages/ezturnlube.php

My valve became galled and hard to turn. I took the valve apart and used the EZ Turn lubricant. This product will keep the valve from galling and leaking and makes the valve very easy to turn. I drive my car a lot and always turn off the fuel when parked, even when going to the store. The EZ Turn lasted about 6 months and then I put new EZ Turn in the valve.

A new valve will eventually gall because of the material used or will get scratched by any hard foreign material. Using EZ Turn at the beginning will keep the valve in good condition. Kind of like keeping grease in all the other moving parts of the car.

There are probably other grease like materials that can be used that are not effected by gasoline, but I don't know of any.

A friend uses a solenoid valve that come on when the ignition switch is turned on and shuts off when the switch is turned off. This works for him. The problems as I see it are that a modern ignition switch, that supplies voltage to the ignition system, must be used and it adds an electric/mechanical system that will keep you parked if it fails.
 
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Stainless ball valve from Amazon. Harder than brass so less prone to damage and downstream from paper filter so won't be subject to as much grit from tank. Won't work well for a judged car but works every time for a driver.
 

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My cars are drivers so when a fuel valve starts to leak, it goes in the trash bin and I buy a 1/4" ball valve and a couple of fittings to install it. End of problem. That said, the first time a valve leaked, I used one of these https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=979345&cat=41707. It has worked very well but I have been trying to work out what they used as a lubricant. The lube fills the scratches and thus, stops leaks. The lube has to be fuel proof or it will be washed out and must work as a lubricant. I pondered what they could have used for a long time. I tried different things, like silicone grease and others but the answer still eluded me. It was a palm on forehead moment when it came to me. I had reversed my thinking and asked myself "Where is a non oil based lubricant commonly used?" It came to me - KY jelly. I haven't tried it in a valve but see no reason it won't be the answer. All you would have to buy is a new seal for about $2.50 and the KY. Yur folks probably have some of that! :):):)
 
Dennisfly said:
Stainless ball valve from Amazon. Harder than brass so less prone to damage and downstream from paper filter so won't be subject to as much grit from tank. Won't work well for a judged car but works every time for a driver.
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Nice valve, do you have a link to it on Amazon. I'm lazy and don't want to search (too much).
 
Renners Corner a contributor. 0n this site offers modern options that they sell to replace the original set up I HAVE RUN ONE SEVERAL YEARS WITH NO PROBLEMS.
 
I had the same problem with the gas leaking back through the carb. I installed one of the 6 volt shutoff valves in line to stop the slow leak. After a short while the inside of the valve closed up because of, I think, the ethanol in the gas and had only a small orifice for gas flow. Car would run OK until the carb bowl ran out of gas then would go very lean. I have a 1/4 turn SS valve like Dennisfly used and will install it tomorrow.
 
Can anybody tell me what the female thread is on the output side of the gas sediment bowl ?

My gas shut off valve leaks if the car sits for a week or more so as a band aid for now I would like to put a shut off valve at the output side of the sediment bowl but need to know the thread side .
My other choice is to drive the car once a week !
 
petew said:
Can anybody tell me what the female thread is on the output side of the gas sediment bowl ?

My gas shut off valve leaks if the car sits for a week or more so as a band aid for now I would like to put a shut off valve at the output side of the sediment bowl but need to know the thread side .
My other choice is to drive the car once a week !
Click to expand...

Does it leak at the sediment bowl or inside the car?
 
Valve doesn’t seal and allows fuel to seep past which after a weeks time causes the carb to overfill and leak on the floor.
 
I got tired of repairing/replacing the shut off valve. I installed a ball valve similar to the shut off valve that Bratton's sells. No problems since, altho I have to reach a little farther (no father than the GAV tho)

521137
 

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Yeah I've looked at the compression in line valves and that is an option.
I really want to get a valve with male / female threads so I can pull the fuel line off at the sediment bowl and just screw a valve in there and screw the fuel line onto that.
That's why I was wondering if anyone know what the thread size is for the outlet side of the sediment bowl is.
Restoration Supply has some nice period correct valves .
 
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