Rear Main leaking.

Been having a lot of oil coming out the clutch housing bottom. Checked the tube not clogged. Also clearance was 15.This is the second time trying to fix
this problem. Removed the motor out this time. I did find this piece that was loose. lt looks like a piece that was added. With this loose could that be the problem? If so what would be the fix? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
 

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Looks like a shim is stuck on the cap, remove the shim and take more pictures.
I suspect there is a chunk missing from the cap that was filled with glue
 
Yes, that could cause leakage. Refer to photos in the red book to see what the cap should look like. Make sure you have the aluminum part that goes up into the block. The rear cap should be sealed where it mates to the block with a very thin wipe of gasket sealer.

I assume that when you say 15 clearance you mean 0.0015 inch.

There are two ways to fix this: A new (or used) cap (must be fitted) or fill in the void with JB Weld after a through cleaning with acetone (not the best route).

To fit a cap, use the yellow Timesaver.

https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=980031&cat=41621
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=983981&cat=41685
https://www.snydersantiqueauto.com/product.htm?pid=980308&cat=0
 
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Here are some more pictures of my rear main. It appears to be that way both sides. A repair? Can that be repaired ? And yes I 0.0015 clearance.
 
The length of the bolts attaching the flywheel to the crankshaft is critical. If they are a bit too long, they come into contact with and crack the rear main bearing like yours is. I suspect that during the life of your engine, bolts too long were used and replaced.
 
so it look like some of the cap was cut away, then filled with something that came loose
the picture is of NOS caps, what the dealership would use for a “KRW” rebuild, you can see the surface is flat where the slinger fits.
Why yours was modified was probably for some kind of seal in the past
 

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so it look like some of the cap was cut away, then filled with something that came loose
the picture is of NOS caps, what the dealership would use for a “KRW” rebuild, you can see the surface is flat where the slinger fits.
Why yours was modified was probably for some kind of seal in the past

Thank ya"ll for your input. On the repair any thoughts? Maybe reattached the piece that came out or???
 
Barn 151, As mentioned earlier, the best repair would be to get another cap and fit it to the crank. See post #4. Any gluing or adding material, like JB Weld, stands the chance of coming loose again.
 
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