Checking radiator for overheating problem with 1956 Thunderbird

I ended up buying both the housing and water pump nipple even though my old nipple was in good shape. I figured while I’m going through all this trouble, might as well use new parts. My car is just a driver, not a show car or numbers matching actual restoration.

All the above didn’t seem to fix the problem so I bought a replacement aluminum radiator. The new radiator came with a 16# cap. Is that OK to use or should I use a 13# cap I recently bought?
 
The new radiator came with a 16# cap. Is that OK to use or should I use a 13# cap I recently bought?
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- :D IMO :D -​

I would use the 13# as you do not want to put too much pressure on things like the heater core and/or core plugs unless you are sure of their condition.
 
Re-reading through this thread -

I borrowed a coolant system pressure test kit from Autozone and pumped up the pressure through the fill neck.

It identified several hoses leaking that didn’t leak coolant after driving (I assume because it never pressurized the system with the other leaks.
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The pressure cap needs to be pressure tested also. It may not be holding the rated pressure

blucar said:
I am not to sure just what the purpose of the baffle plate between the water pump and the timing case is, I have never seem one on a truck Y block. I don't think it is a spacer plate because the plate is only about 16/18 gauge which is less than 1/16 of an inch.
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What period car did you see this on? It was a thin metal baffle plate? Did you see it on more than one BIRD application?
 
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- CASCO BIRD FYB HO WATER PUMP -​

Detailed Description

Comes with 3 gaskets in a cardboard fold-over for protection. Do not discard as packing material.

Machined and assembled in USA

Work on non-Tbird engines? No - The pump only fits on Thunderbird engines. They can be identified by the 1" or so spacer that is situated between the water pump and the timing chain cover. It is the extra room created by the spacer that this pump exploits with extra fins on the back of the water pump impeller.

Knowledge Base

Install Directions
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SOURCE - https://www.classictbird.com/Water-Pump-Modified-for-Higher-Output-1-Per-car/productinfo/8501HO/

So now that I have received my education on this pump ... :o ..., it still uses the OEM WP SPACER 8A506 (BIRD UNIQUE) which is defective in design (along with possible poor casting of the volute in the timing cover), the over-heating problem is most likely still there.

It needs (IMO) to be used with the re-designed WP SPACER (PARAGON) and the timing cover inspected for poor casting - https://thunderbird.us/
 
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- FlowKooler - The Leaders in Hi Flow Water Pumps -​

FlowKooler water pumps prevent engine overheating. Each impeller is designed to generate higher flow rates and increase system pressure. Increasing coolant flow rate through the block reduces the cycle time between the engine and the radiator providing more opportunity for heat exchange. When flow rate is maximized, the higher flow rates raise engine block pressure to prevent the formation of steam pockets in the water jacket and the vapor barrier that can cause hot spots on cylinder walls.

If you are interested in a rebuild you are probably (A) restoring a numbers-matching car or (B) cannot find a new pump anywhere and either want a conventional pump or have experienced the benefits of hi flow. We have been helping restorers for 40 years in the construction of our radiators so it was an easy decision to use our hi flow impellers designs for numbers-matching cars and unavailable castings.

There are 3 scenarios we commonly see:

A. The casting volute, diameter, depth, angle and rotational direction match an existing pump impeller

B. The casting volute, diameter, depth, angle and rotational direction is close to an existing pump impeller but requires some modification

C. Nothing matches an existing impeller and we have to design from scratch

Contact us with your make, model and production year to purchase an impeller.
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SOURCE - https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/

Here is your out if you want to retain the OEM WP w correct CASTING ID and DATE CODES.

The site says just the impeller is available and this along with a quality rebuild should cool the car down and retain originality (IMO).

497089

They need to be contacted to see if the improved impeller fits PASS CAR and/or BIRD WP.

- HI-FLO Balanced Sleeve Thermostat​

- https://flowkoolerwaterpumps.com/collections/thermostats
 

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Once you have a certified rebuildable block, the next step is to clean out the rust deposits in the water jacket. This step cannot be overemphasized! Occasionally these deposits are so solid that they must be chiseled out (Especially around the #4 and #8 cylinders). In some cases the rust affects the cylinder wall thickness and causes mysterious overheating problems. Rust deposits are the major cause of overheating problems in an otherwise good engine. So be very sure there are no residual rust deposits in the block after cleaning.
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SOURCE - https://www.ctci.org/rebuilding-your-312-292-y-block-engine/
 
Yes, I watched this video last week. He is indeed talented and has the tools and equipment to pull it off in a reasonable time.
 
The reason for the posting was to demonstrate the need for a full shroud.

Full bottom sections are available at BIRD SUPPLIERS.

497251

How is your BIRD doing?
 

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Is any of this discussion helping/informing anyone? I see 4200 hits but few comments or questions.

It seems any BIRD board you go to has endless questions regarding overheating and all of the available information was never brought together.
 
KULTULZ said:
Is any of this discussion helping/informing anyone? I see 4200 hits but few comments or questions.
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I would guess that the ratio of early Bird owners on this forum is low to be the reason for the lower interest. I had a '55 in the middle/late '60s, went on my honeymoon in it. It gets hot in the summer here. I remember watching the temp gauge while in traffic, don't remember it ever boiling though. I also remember the lack of air circulation in the cabin.
 
Lack of air circulation in the 55's was the reason they put the side vents on the 56's and 57's.


40cpe said:
I would guess that the ratio of early Bird owners on this forum is low to be the reason for the lower interest. I had a '55 in the middle/late '60s, went on my honeymoon in it. It gets hot in the summer here. I remember watching the temp gauge while in traffic, don't remember it ever boiling though. I also remember the lack of air circulation in the cabin.
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I have read every word,and I have also taken some good advise.
I installed one of the paragon water pump spacers, and I also went the lower full fan shroud route.
I really cannot comment on the performance, as I have not yet got the car road worthy. Soon I hope.
 
Patrick brophy said:
I have read every word,and I have also taken some good advise.
I installed one of the paragon water pump spacers, and I also went the lower full fan shroud route.

I really cannot comment on the performance, as I have not yet got the car road worthy. Soon I hope.
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THANX!

I thought I was preaching to the choir there at the end.

It seems to draw interest as there are 4000 hits. I was trying to bring out more detailed info that was loosely scattered on the net.

There is more to discuss. Just wondering if I was farting in a windstorm ... :p
 
11- See page 386 & 387 of the restoration manual on how to relieve hot spots between 2 & 3 cylinders on the right bank and 6 & 7 cylinders on the left bank of the engine block.
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KULTULZ said:
I don't have their manual but I would like to see how far involved with this subject they go -
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It's a brief paragraph & description of how to use these two pre-cut holes in the head gaskets as a template to mark the block & heads for a pair of added holes and the drilling process: start with smaller bits and work up to the final size of...
11/64 for the upper hole and 1/4 for the lower hole.
 

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There is a lot of controversy regarding whether or not to add the steam holes. You'll find an in-depth discussion on y-blocksforever.com. I think the consensus is don't plug existing holes, but don't add holes. Also, there could be sealing issues using gaskets with holes if your engine doesn't have the holes.
 
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