Calibrate & adjust oil pressure gauge

RickMcK

Member
Does anyone know how to adjust a 36 oil pressure gauge. Mine reads high compared to my after market fluid type, which I think is probably more accurate.

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what sending unit do you have ---50 lb or 80 lb, original engine/oil pump /sending unit were 50 lb, later systems used 80 lb system
 
I have a 50lb oil pump and a 50lb sender. I have a 80lb sender in my spair parts box. It's a stock gauge (I think it's a 34 car) in a 36 pickup.

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I know the gauge uses the same type of wiring as is inside the gas gauge on the '36s. And they are a pain to work on. I wouldn't take it entirely apart, but maybe by moving the plate up just a little (with the press. numbers) would show the arrow just below the 0, so that it won't rise quite as high as it did before. Did I make this clear as mud? Terry
 
Ricky
An you easily throw a pressure gauge on the engine to get a baseline oil pressure both at idle and high rpm? Or have you already done this?
 
Yes I have an after market fluid style as a reference. It reads 10-15 PSI at warm-hot idle, which is about right for a 40 Lb pump.

I suspect that it's the sender as the needle goes past full scale with the engine off, then drops down.

What kind of sender should I try to find - get?

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Do a search on the sending unit. It has been discussed before on this forum and i think most of the early Ford dealers have them. Terry
 
Yes I have an after market fluid style as a reference. It reads 10-15 PSI at warm-hot idle, which is about right for a 40 Lb pump.

I suspect that it's the sender as the needle goes past full scale with the engine off, then drops down.

What kind of sender should I try to find - get?

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Just to be clear; where is the needle after the ignition has been off for a minute or two? Should be nearly out of sight to the left. Where is the needle with the ignition on but the engine off? Should be well below the lowest mark. I went through several modern replacement senders, all of whom showed oil pressure of 10 lb or more with the ignition on but engine off. Unacceptable. I finally paid a very high price for a genuine stock sender. But worth it, because the gauge now works correctly.
 
Accessibility of the sender is a bear. I put a 4" copper nipple in the block and then a female/female adaptor to mount the sender at a point high enough that I can get to the sender in the engine compartment, so I do not have to pull the floorboard.
 
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