Torque Tube to Differential Seal

Stretch Cab

Stretch Cab

Well-known member
I need to replace the seal on the torque tube. The gasket is one piece. Does the tube slide out and back in easily or would it be better to split the gasket and install it without separating the tube from the differential?
 
Not sure what year yours is but on a 39 , you would have to split or at least cut the gasket in one place ( preferably the top ) and slip it in and on after removing the bolts . The drive shaft is connected to rear end or I should say pinion gear via coupler that has a pin driven in and flattened and the only way I know to put a gasket on without cutting the gasket as described would be remove rear and torque tube , un bolt tube, drive out pin , yada , yada.
 
It has been my experience that on a 40 Ford if you are referring to the gasket that fits between the rear of the torque tube and the rear end housing you need to remove the torque tube and drive shaft if you don't want to cut the paper gasket. It's a lot of work.

I did forget to put one the clam shell gasket in place before sliding the drive shaft into the U-joint and transmission and DID cut the gasket to make it easier. I installed the cut at the top of the clamshell. Worked fine. No leaks. Use Permatex.

Personally, I would first try to install it by cutting the paper seal and installing it after removing the rear end bolts and unbolting the rear radius rods. I think that would allow the torque tube and drive shaft to slide forward and give enough space., HOWEVER, I AM NOT SURE ABOUT THIS. Others may know for sure. Make sure to use non-hardening Permatex and install the cut at the top of the housing. I made my own gasket .

DON'T CLEAN OUT THE REAR END THREADS WITH A TAP AND DO TRY TO INSTALL THE BOLTS IN THE SAME HOLES THEY CAME OUT OF. I NUMBERED THE BOLTS & THE HOLES BEFORE TAKING IT APART.
 

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Mr strech cab still hasnt responded back as to what year he is working on. must not be too important. the reason I ask is the later ones with a bearing in the middle sometimes do not play nice
 
Sorry for the delay and lack of pertinent information. My car is a 36 Fordor Deluxe.
And thanks for the information. I will try and install new gasket by splitting it at the top.
 
As I recall, getting the torque tube off isn't that big a chore. You'll have to remove the speedometer turtle and find the clip that retains the drive gear to the drive shaft. Remove that clip, slide out the drive gear and bearing and you should be able to remove the torque tube. (Please correct me if I'm wrong. It's been a few years since I was doing a rear.)
 
In a previous post Stretch Cab already had the rear out asking questions on best way to remove the spring. Now maybe he's already put it back in place, and now wants to replace the gasket between torque tube and rear banjo housing flange. Who knows for sure :)
 
Everything is still out of car and in the process of being painted. I have a new gasket on order and want to be ready to install it when it arrives.
 
One of the old tricks to seal up leaks on the axle housings and torque is to loosen the bolts and separate the mating parts enough to put a few wraps of dental floss in the gap then tighten everything up.
 
Since the axle is out, I would take the turtle off along with the little snap ring at the front and pull the tube. That way you could inspect the front roller bearing and sleeve and replace if needed. I would also replace the front grease seal, noting how it goes in backwards. The new gasket could be slipped down over the driveshaft and put in place uncut when reassembling the torque tube.
 
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