1955 T-bird coil spring removal and install

Y

Y-8

Junior Member
I want to remove and then reinstall the springs before the engine is installed. My thinking is change bushings and springs, install disc brakes and all of the power steering, and then install the engine. Should/can I leave the springs compressed and adjust the tension to keep the control arms in the correct position without the weight of the engine, or should I release the compressors and let the upper control arm bumper rest against the stop until the engine is reinstalled, I don’t know if this ruins the bumper or not.
 
I am not quite sure what you are asking. If you are going to re-bush the control arms, all of that has to come out. How are you planning on removing the springs?
 
KULTULZ, Thanks for your time!

1955 Thunderbird, engine removed, lack of engine weight pins arms in full downward position, currently upper control arm bumpers are gone (might have happened last time I drove the car), Jacking up on the lower control arm without the engine weight does not compress spring at all. Can get springs out without compressor but must compress springs to reinstall.

Q: Once the new springs are installed, without the engine weight:

Should I let off of the compressors and let the springs pin the arms in the downward position? Will this cause damage to the new rubber bumper on the upper control arm?

Alternatively, should I just leave the springs compressed enough to keep the bumper from making contact with the stop? Then remove the compressors when the engine is installed.

Or is there a different procedure?
 
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You know, removing/installing coil springs without engine weight can be tricky unless you have a way to chain the frame to the floor.

Would it be better to disassemble, do the needed work on the suspension components/brakes and put the springs back in after all the work?

Did I make myself clear? If not, get back.
 
It is always easiest/best to have engine in the car when doing springs. Also I would not leave a compressed spring laying around. If it gets bumped it could do some damage to you. I have done several springs with out engine installed on Fords. Care must be taken but I use a bottle jack at the most outboard part of the lower A arm then run a piece of all thread through the center of spring through the upper shock hole and through the lower A arm. On the lower side use a flat plate of 1/4 +. Using the bottle jack and tightening nuts on the all thread at the same time. Also the spring won't come out and take your head off. As far as the upper bumper it should not be damaged but I would install new. Is the car on a lift? Personally I don't like any car setting on jack stands under the frame on all 4 corners. Once the A arms are back in place put jack stands under the A arms especially before installing engine. Being a convertible car there is flex in the frame/body. This is just my opinion. Others may have different thoughts. I have found sometimes spring compressors can be a pain because of the spring tower.
 
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I have a '55 T-Bird but not a well equipped garage.
The front suspension needed a through inspection and potential full rebuild.
So I asked the suspension shop that would be doing the work if they wanted the car with the engine out... for more room to work on & around the suspension parts,
OR
with the engine in... for the weight / sitting at normal ride height for reinstalling and adjusting parts & alignment.

They said "with the engine in, so some of the work doesn't have to be done twice".
Along with several other parts, the control arms and springs were all removed to replace the eight large suspension bushings.
.
 

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dmsfrr said:
I have a '55 T-Bird but not a well equipped garage.
The front suspension needed a through inspection and potential full rebuild.
So I asked the suspension shop that would be doing the work if they wanted the car with the engine out... for more room to work on & around the suspension parts,
OR
with the engine in... to help hold the car down & sitting at normal ride height for reinstalling and adjusting parts & alignment.

They said "with the engine in" so some of the work didn't have to be redone twice.
Along with other parts, the control arms (and springs) were all removed to replace the large suspension bushings.
.
Click to expand...

I do understand that from a shop/business aspect. It's not their car. But I have seen first hand on convertibles and hardtop cars door gaps change when the suspension hangs un supported. And to align the front end accurately the car must be all together to set Castor/camber/ toe This is a job that you have no choice where you place jack stands. But when you must try to place a support under the front cross member to give some support to avoid frame flex. That y block weighs over 600 lbs. But you may also find that after a couple hundred miles driving things need to be re checked after everything settles in and new springs settle in.
 
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Let me add as well that the upper and lower control arm bolts need to be torqued to spec...only after the full weight of the car is resting on those springs.

OP - do you have a shop manual for torque specs?
 
Y-8 said:
1955 Thunderbird, engine removed, lack of engine weight pins arms in full downward position, currently upper control arm bumpers are gone (might have happened last time I drove the car), Jacking up on the lower control arm without the engine weight does not compress spring at all. Can get springs out without compressor but must compress springs to reinstall.

Q: Once the new springs are installed, without the engine weight:

Should I let off of the compressors and let the springs pin the arms in the downward position? Will this cause damage to the new rubber bumper on the upper control arm?

Alternatively, should I just leave the springs compressed enough to keep the bumper from making contact with the stop? Then remove the compressors when the engine is installed.

Or is there a different procedure?
Click to expand...


hUkTd oN fonICs - wUrX 4 mEe!​


It just dawned on me what you are asking.

You shouldn't need a spring compressor on this style front suspension. A QUALITY floor jack is all you should need. Yes, you would need the weight of the engine to install the springs are arrange some type of tooling to prevent the car from raising and possibly falling off the stands.

I would remove all the suspension I wanted to rebuild, run whatever brake plumbing you will need for the conversion and hang the PS. After the engine/trans is re-installed, I would then install the springs and finish detailing.

Most likely, the springs will have softened and depending on what disc brake conversion you choose, the car may sit lower than you desire and you will have to change the springs again to get the proper/desired trim level.

And no, as previously mentioned, you do not lay a compressed spring down unless you have excellent dental insurance and can walk a compound fracture off.

I hope I made that understandable.
 

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That's a good lookin 55. 1" makes a nice difference. It gives it that Hollywood look.
 
basically I just reversed the procedure, not sure where the issue might be... I did not have to secure the frame to anything or have anything other than a floor jack as I recall.
 
Afterthoughts:

The early birds springs run through the frame adding a level of safety, I tied the bottom to the control arm. Used a compressor and applied just enough pressure to compensate for the engine being out so that the car would not be pushed up when the arms were disconnected from the spindle. Let the jack down a bit then loosened compressor, did this a couple of times and this process felt controlled and safe. If the engine was in the car I would not hesitate to use a jack without the compressor.

Thanks for all of your input!
 

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If I understand the question, it certainly can be done with engine removed from car. The spring removal is better with a spring compressor in this case. After it is all reassembled just leave the nuts loose on the upper and lower control arm bushings. After engine is installed and full weight of car on wheels, then tighten everything. That way there is no tension on the bushings.
 
I did mine with no drive train. I expected problems but it went ok. I had to pry down on the lower arm with a crow bar.
 
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