Condenser question

Is there any way to bench-check a condenser ? I understand pulling the coil wire and opening the points to get a spark to the head but what if I have 5 or 6 of them on my bench that I want to get an OK on?
 
There is a small capacitor tester made by SUPCO. I bought one on ebay a few years ago. I also made a tester for coils and capacitors. Once the condenser passes the bench test I install it and run it for a week or so to be sure it's good under heat and vibration. Then I mark it OK and save it.

CoilCondenserTester1.jpg


CoilCondenserTester2.jpg

This is the adjustable gap to check coil output.
CoilCondenserTester3.jpg

This shows how to check coil polarity using a pencil. Notice the FLARE is on the PLUG side of the pencil lead.
CoilCondensorTester.jpg

And this shows the schematic. Changing the capacitor microfarads or relay ohms will change the rate at which the relay contacts vibrate. I have this set up to spark the same as a Model A running about 1,000 RPM.
 
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Tom,

Any reason not to just use a capacitor tester which tests for capacitance as well as leakage? I would have to assume thats more accurate no?
 
Tom,

Any reason not to just use a capacitor tester which tests for capacitance as well as leakage? I would have to assume thats more accurate no?

Mike's right, it's fun to make sparks! :D

Actually I made this tester just before buying my SUPCO capacitor tester. I do use the SUPCO much more now.
 
Wow! Tom, I thought that your bushing tools were neat! I think this might be a bit beyond my capabilities.
Where does somebody get the SUPCO tester?
 
Actually, we found a tv repair service that comes to your house to fix the tv a few years back. Last I knew they were still operating.

Cost us $250 to fix a 35" CRT Sony in 2008.

Something to keep in mind is many TV's these days are $800-2K and are not considered "throw away"
 
TV shops pretty much went by the wayside here quite a few years ago.But,as Mr Tube says,with $2000.TV's being common there are guys doing it again.The difference is that none seem to have a shop to go to.They all come out to your house like an appliance repairman to look at your TV set.They will take them back in for major repairs,but have no store with set hours.I will have to see what my dad has laying around,in the late 50's he thought he might want to get into electronics so he took some courses and bought a bunch of testing equipment.I know there are capacitor testing units there,he uses one now and then to test start capacitors on motors.He decided to be a builder instead of sitting on a stool his whole life.One thing to look out for,if you buy Standard Products points and condensers,look them over good.They are no longer the quality they were.I have a couple of new condensers that I can spin the brass peg with my fingers.I also have some new points that the point arm contacts the cam instead of the rubbing block.That can be ground,but until you see the problem it makes for some pretty advanced timing.
 
I have a repro condenser laying around whos brass contact spins.

I am pretty certain this is because the actual capacitor is simply crimped into the metal housing and the whole capacitor is actually spinning inside the housing.

When I have a second I am going to try and pin it into the housing tighter along the front edge.
 
Many thanks to everybody, especially Tom. I will check out Fleabay.
I think that half the fun of working on a 80 year old machine is "fixing" instead of "buying" Why else would we invest a lot of time and money in testing a $5.00 part? Like the man said "its fun to make sparks"
Thanks again guys.
 
Many thanks to everybody, especially Tom. I will check out Fleabay.
I think that half the fun of working on a 80 year old machine is "fixing" instead of "buying" Why else would we invest a lot of time and money in testing a $5.00 part? Like the man said "its fun to make sparks"
Thanks again guys.

CondensorFix1.jpg

CondensorFix2.jpg


Who wants to invest $5, when you can be your own repair shop and fix it for 29 cents.:D

The condenser standing up I fixed by unrolling the top end and bending it back, but that wasn't so neat, so the second one I fixed, I used a tubing cutter and opened it up, removed the guts, drilled a small hole in the rear for the wire, soldered the brass end FIRST, slipped the two halves together and soldered the seam, then soldered the rear wire. The one cut with the tubing cutter is still in my 28.

Yes, I know, this probably gives new meaning to the word "CHEAP":D:D
 
Tom, You are probably one that charges one up and just leaves it on the bench for some unsuspecting soul to pick it up????:D
 
Tom, You are probably one that charges one up and just leaves it on the bench for some unsuspecting soul to pick it up????:D

Say now, that's a great idea for the clinic I'm giving in April.:D

In the 70's I did rig up a coil and ******** similar to above, and mounted it inside a model Box. I lined the underside of the box cover with aluminum foil and wired the coil to it. I had a swtich to turn on the ******** when the lid was lifted an inch. My co-worker didn't appreciate the humor of it!:eek:

In 7th grade I also made a shocker from an audio output transformer and brought it to school. The teacher caught me with it and made me shock myself a few times.:eek: Yep, them were the good old days all right. Today I might get put on the terrorist watch list for such behavior.:D
 
Just for fun, do you have a part number for the capacitor in your tester? I went to Pott and Brum and found the relay but they have 177 330uf capacitors. (Yes I made a copy of the plan). Also can you give me a more detailed wiring diagram of the hookup?
I did order the SUPCO off of Fleabay.
 
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