33 1-1/2ton general questions...

BB Bfowler

Junior Member
I am neck deep into my truck project and I am finally at a point where I would like to start putting things back together, but, I have lots of questions

There are are different styles of grease fittings in various places on the truck. Is it because they were intended to receive different kinds of grease? I was planning on swapping them all out for new ones and pumping them all with the the same kind of grease. Is this a bad idea? Is there a specific grease that I should be using on the chassis?

Rear Diff - 600wt oil?

It has a 4sp transmission w/ PTO what gear lube is recommended?

It has, I believe, a 1937 V8 - best oil? Unknown milage on engine

There is a oil hole on the distributor cap - motor oil?

The truck came stock with a V8 in 1933, that is not the engine that is on the floor of my shop. The engine is, I think, a 1937. It appears that someone at some point, probably during the engine swap. put a 1" pipe riser on the engine mount in order to get the water pumps hoses to clear the front cross member. Is this normal? Is this a common modification? Is there an off the shelf engine mount that will raise the engine up enough to clear the cross member? I am figuring that I will fabricate and weld an extension onto the old engine mount frame tab. good or bad idea?

Steering/tie rod end rebuild parts - all metal or the plastic/teflon ?

I think I will be running a new wiring harness - can I get one for a 33 BB? recommendations for a harness supplier?

I would like to run a slightly taller tire it has 6.5 - 20 tires now, has anyone had problems/issues running a taller tire? I will be using this truck mostly on dirt roads in the Sierras and would like to have better roll over if possible.

Those are my questions for now..

Many thanks in advance!!

Brendan
Nevada City, CA
 
I'll start off, use at least 140 gl 4 gear lube in the trans and 10-30 or 10-40 in the engine. Motor oil works for the distributor.
 
The owners manual has a lubrication chart showing all fittings and lubrication points along with what is used
 
later engines/water pumps needed spacers--- how does the hand crank hole line up with the crank ratchet on the engine
 
Where might someone find a owners manual? It appears that this truck, although it is a BB, is mostly AA with a V8.

Before I pulled the engine, the crank hole was lower than the ratchet on the engine.
 
Rear Diff - 600wt oil? Brendan
Nevada City, CA

600wt (it is 600w, not 600wt) is not a viscosity reference, it was a name of a steam gear oil produced by Mobile I believe. It was in the 140 viscosity range using modern SAE ratings and was never something recommended by Ford for V8 years cars and trucks. I don't have a truck lubrication chart, but it should be similar to the car charts. Ford calls out a EP (Extreme Pressure) gear lubricate for the rear axle, that would be GL-4 or GL-5 in todays terminology. GL-5 is ok for the rear axle, but GL-4 should be used in the transmission because it is safer for the "yellow" metals in the transmission.

"The truck came stock with a V8 in 1933, that is not the engine that is on the floor of my shop. The engine is, I think, a 1937. It appears that someone at some point, probably during the engine swap. put a 1" pipe riser on the engine mount in order to get the water pumps hoses to clear the front cross member. Is this normal? Is this a common modification? Is there an off the shelf engine mount that will raise the engine up enough to clear the cross member? I am figuring that I will fabricate and weld an extension onto the old engine mount frame tab. good or bad idea?"

There was a spacer used when installing a later engine into an early chassis.
 

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Congrats on your '33. It is the last year for the Ford rear diff. '34's used the timken floating rear diff and thus different wheels. Make sure the larger tires in the rear do not rub sidewalls under load.. seen this on some trucks. Also the mechanical brakes will work well if maintained , have also seen vaccum boosters on the mechanical systems. Newc
 
Yes, I would have to check on which venders.


Here is C&G listing.
 

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I made my spacers out of a short piece of 2" square tube. I can post pictures when I get up to my shop tomorrow, if anybody's interested.
 
I worked all weekend on the BB, re-furbished everything in the whole front end except the shackles, I have a question about that in a second, tore down, cleaned and refurbished all the brakes front and rear, new linings all around replaced all the seals, new water pumps, new clutch and pressure plate, re-furbished all the torque tubes, re installed the engine and ******. Tore the roof off the cab and fixed the dents and pulled the windshield, despite the great progress I came up short on a couple of things... The e-brake lining I ordered is too narrow. Where might someone find a 33 BB 1.5 ton e-brake lining?? I ordered an AA lining, but is is to narrow. The front shackles I ordered are also to short, can't find BB front shackles either, is there a source for those? I have one rear axle dust cap that is shot, female threads, can those still be purchased?

If I can source these last few pieces I should be up and running in a couple of days!

Thanks,
Brendan
 
The parts book shows the e-brake lining the same 1928-39 BB-2609.
I measured the lining and it is 1 1/2" wide.
The shackles are the same as Model A rear shackles BB-5715


Bob
 
Thanks Bob for the tips!
is the model A rear shackle A-5630, the one that is the same as the BB-5715?
 
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