Vintage Precision thermostat housing

Ok thanks...
I STILL do not see a link in Werner's post #16 …

The link that YOU posted in post 21 is the link that I posted in post 15. ... Thought that I missed some info I did not know about
 
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Just sealant works best and you don't have to worry about breaking an ear off your new thermostat housing.
 
Radiator out. Shaft of the water pump was really loose so I’m glad I caught that.

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30 Closed Cab PU said:
Hi Smooth One
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I recently flushed it with CLR and Vinegar, poured both in and let it run at just above idle for about 30 mins then let it sit overnight then drained everything out and flushed with water.
I’m running Green coolant 50/50 with distilled water and a bottle of Redline water wetter additive.
I spent an hour and a half cleaning the gasket surfaces last night.
 
Smooth_One said:
I recently flushed it with CLR and Vinegar, poured both in and let it run at just above idle for about 30 mins then let it sit overnight then drained everything out and flushed with water.
I’m running Green coolant 50/50 with distilled water and a bottle of Redline water wetter additive.
I spent an hour and a half cleaning the gasket surfaces last night.
Click to expand...


Thanks for the info, 1st I've heard of mixing CLR and Vinegar. Seems running anti freeze/redline and using your flush concoction works well.


Am interested, a new Bergs is going on mine, want to protect the investment.
 
I should have the cooling system back together by the weekend so I'll keep you guys updated with pictures and running status.
I talked to Steve at Bert's and he said they all run these pumps in they're cars and have NEVER had an impeller come loose, because I called him and asked if i should drill/pin or spot weld it and he said no and assured it won't move. So I'll run it as is.
He said put it on, put a small bit of grease in the REAR Zerks fitting and let'er rip!
 
I have a question on the Bert's water pump which I may order one as the Bratton's one is an issue. Is the shaft stainless and also brass? It looks like brass color on fan end in pictures.
 
37 Coupe said:
I have a question on the Bert's water pump which I may order one as the Bratton's one is an issue. Is the shaft stainless and also brass? It looks like brass color on fan end in pictures.
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I believe it is just Heat Treated stainless steel.
I think what you’re seeing is an anti-corrosion coating I’m guessing. I can call them tomorrow and ask.
 
The pump it self feels a bit heavier And at least the one I received looks a little bit thicker all the way around the casting.
 
Your first picture in #33 shows that you have a Canadian Powerhouse generator. Usually only see them on cars near the Canadian border or Model A's that Canada sent overseas.
 
Joe K said:
What? No broken ears to contend with?

How can one be a Model A owner and not broken his ears?

Kidding of course. Ford design was a "work in progress" as evidenced by the three bolt Model B water-pump.

Joe K
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Ford engineering noted a number of improvements needed for the original A engine as the A was produced,but Ford held them till the B engine was introduced.Most noticeable was the main bearing issue,Ford engineers knew of the A engine weakness of the crankshaft and the propensity for center main bearing failure during engine development.The issue wasn't addressed till 1932,with the B engines bigger main bearing journals and pressure lubrication.
 
37 Coupe said:
I have a question on the Bert's water pump which I may order one as the Bratton's one is an issue. Is the shaft stainless and also brass? It looks like brass color on fan end in pictures.
Click to expand...

Wasn't the problem you had with the new water pump actually your modified head? I'm sure the pump Brattons sold you was as good as anyone else sells.
 
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